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Hitch Extension Questions for Pulling a 7 x 14 Cargo Trailer

Mooredb
Explorer
Explorer
I am looking at Reese Hitch Adapter - RP45292 34" extension to pull my enclosed cargo trailer (7 x 14 dual axle). Max weight rating for the Reese hitch is 4,500 lbs. I will be pretty close to that weight when the trailer is loaded (4,200 lbs or so)

My truck camper is about 3,200 lbs. The tongue weight for the trailer is about 325 lbs. I am driving a F-350 diesel dually, I should be fine with payload capacity.

Here's my questions.

1) I was looking at the Torklift hitch but those seem fairly pricy and might be overkill for what I need possibly? Do you think I can get by with the Reese hitch adapter? I want to feel and be safe when towing for sure. I'll be traveling all over the country pulling this trailer with the truck camper on it.

2) Also I've been reading that it's nearly impossible to back the trailer up with a hitch extension on of 34". I am not foreign to backing up single axle trailers or dual axle but I've heard it's extremely difficult even for someone with experience backing up.


Thanks for any advice and tips.

DM
31 REPLIES 31

Kayteg1
Explorer
Explorer
NautiqueFamily wrote:
ticki2 wrote:
As far as I know the lower bar on the Supertruss is a tube like the upper. IF it were solid I doubt it would be cast. Some ball mounts are cast.


Here is a video of the Supertruss installation. In the vid, you see that the compression tube is solid. Honest, it really is solid. :W

Torklift Supertruss Install

This is 36" supertruss, so maybe solid bar comes only with longer units?

Click For Full-Size Image.

burningman
Explorer
Explorer
I moved my tongue jack back.
Remember how you adjusted how far back on a seesaw you sat as a kid to put more or less weight on your side? That’s exactly what’s going on with those hitch extensions.

I’ve driven tow trucks. You can extend and retract the wheel lift holding the car as you drive.
When you do that, the difference is dramatic. You always want it as tight to the back of the truck as possible.

Same with a trailer unless it’s a really light one.
2017 Northern Lite 10-2 EX CD SE
99 Ram 4x4 Dually Cummins
A whole lot more fuel, a whole lot more boost.
4.10 gears, Gear Vendors overdrive, exhaust brake
Built auto, triple disc, billet shafts.
Kelderman Air Ride, Helwig sway bar.

Bedlam
Moderator
Moderator
The center mounted tongue jack gets in the way of landing without a longer SuperTruss. That’s why I skipped the landing and was able to use a 28” extension.

Host Mammoth 11.5 on Ram 5500 HD

jimh406
Explorer III
Explorer III
GeoBoy wrote:
I have an AF990 and use a 36” SuperTruss, because of the rear bumper and Fox Landing on the back of the camper. I remember that the Cirrus 920 also has a landing, so you may well need a 34” extension.


I thought the point of the Fox Landing was to go over the hitch. What am I missing?

'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.

NRA Life Member, CCA Life Member

GeoBoy
Explorer
Explorer
I have an AF990 and use a 36” SuperTruss, because of the rear bumper and Fox Landing on the back of the camper. I remember that the Cirrus 920 also has a landing, so you may well need a 34” extension.

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
My camper is a 9-1/2' floor, and overhangs by about 20". My extension puts the ball right at the rear of the camper, which is fine. It doesn't have to be past the bumper unless you have a weird trailer.

For a couple years I didn't use an extension at all. It was tight but it worked well, and only hit when the trailer swung over too far while I was backing up.

You should not need anywhere near a 34" extension with only a 10' floor camper.

With a 3" receiver, though, I would make a extension from 3" 1/4" wall square tubing, and use a 2-1/2" shank for the trailer. No reducer sleeves, less slop. That's basically how I did mine; 2-1/2" square tubing, 2" shank, no reducer, no slop.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

3_tons
Explorer
Explorer
Mooredb wrote:
Thanks for the info everyone! The truck that I have is a 2018 F-350 Super duty 8' dually diesel. It has a 3" hitch receiver with reducers on it. The truck camper is Cirrus 920 NuCamp, it weighs in around 3,200#. I took it to a shop where they put hitches on and they said that I would need a 34" extension which just puts it just a couple of inches past the truck camper bumper.

I want to make sure this is SAFE for everyone.

thanks.


Your’re smart to inquire... with my 2016 Ram dually, I tow a 7’x16’ double axle enclosed trailer with a 2.5” Curt extension, 43” total length pin to ball without any problems... Ball is 2 - 5/16” and breaks out just clearing camper’s rear bumper.My tongue weight is closer to 375#, backing up is well like backing up... I have confidence that you’ll be fine...

burningman
Explorer
Explorer
I stretched my trailer tongue instead of my hitch.
Way, way better physics.
And no zillion pound thing to attach and remove whenever I put the camper on.
Doesn’t matter how strong it is. You’re still amplifying the leverage the trailer has when you use a hitch extension.
That’s undesirable no matter how you slice it.
2017 Northern Lite 10-2 EX CD SE
99 Ram 4x4 Dually Cummins
A whole lot more fuel, a whole lot more boost.
4.10 gears, Gear Vendors overdrive, exhaust brake
Built auto, triple disc, billet shafts.
Kelderman Air Ride, Helwig sway bar.

NautiqueFamily
Explorer
Explorer
ticki2 wrote:
As far as I know the lower bar on the Supertruss is a tube like the upper. IF it were solid I doubt it would be cast. Some ball mounts are cast.


Here is a video of the Supertruss installation. In the vid, you see that the compression tube is solid. Honest, it really is solid. :W

Torklift Supertruss Install

mkisamore
Explorer
Explorer
i have a reese 2.5 inch diameter hitch extension that was 48inches at 4000 lbs and at 41 inches it was 5000 lbs i shortened it to the 41 inch length and pulled my 7x18 enclosed trailer behind my truck camper with no problems but you definetly need to pay attention to tongue weight balancing your load in the trailer is a must

NautiqueFamily
Explorer
Explorer
Kayteg1 wrote:

OP has 3" receiver and those are rated for 21,000/2,100 lb. Derate them all you want ;). End of the story.


Didn't know the OP had a 3" receiver (the Ford's year wasn't mentioned) and your description left me confused. Thanks for the clarification. The story continues......

ticki2
Explorer
Explorer
Well it's a good day , I learned something new . Thanks
'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed

Bedlam
Moderator
Moderator
My lower square bar on my SuperTruss is solid and the upper is a hollow square tube. Previously I posted the Torklift receiver is built to resist twisting with leverage applied - It doesn't matter if the extension is made of nano carbon or paper mache if the receiver cannot prevent itself from twisting apart or the fasteners fail.

Host Mammoth 11.5 on Ram 5500 HD

ticki2
Explorer
Explorer
NautiqueFamily wrote:


I don't really understand the above - The Supertruss lower truss bar is solid cast. I am no structural engineer but I cannot agree that a 3ft tube of welded steel is stronger than a trussed set with a solid lower truss..... but you are right; the Supertruss is heavy.

As far as I know the lower bar on the supertruss is a tube like the upper. IF it were solid I doubt it would be cast . Some ball mounts are cast .
'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed