How did you you mount your CB antenna on your aluminum F150?

[Boomerweps]

Added a power plug to an old mounted CB I have. Currently have the old magnetic mount antenna for it. Not good for the current F150. Do not want to drill holes in my truck.
I've seen an incredibly expensive steel bracket that mounts behind the high center brake light, bent steel brackets that bolt on the inside of the fender to come up between the hood and fender, and bolt ins that go in the forward bed stake pocket (nice but requires cutting away unmarked bed ledge trim and would interfere with tonneau cover ;(
So what did my fellow current body style F150 owners do if they have a CB?

[BenK]

Always found that when the grounding wire is directly connected, without interruption, to the CB chassis the best.

The more body parts the grounding goes through the higher SWR number

[wnjj]

I would probably leave the SWR where it is, understanding that the lower channels will work slightly better than the upper. Lower channels are where you’re probably more likely to find someone if you ever need help anyway. When traveling with others, use channels in the teens for maximum range. I consider 1.4 to be pretty good anyway and would be afraid of making it worse.

[ACZL]

Get a Francis antenna. Thy are self tuning.

[miltvill]

On a magnetic mount antenna I would not adjust the SWR. If you move the antenna the SWR will change. On a fixed mount antenna and permanent CB installation I would adjust the SWR.

[Boomerweps]

Update: mounted the antenna in the rear passenger side stake hole, ran a ground wire from a mount screw to a rear fixed tie down screw. Added a spring on the antenna. When testing, the SWR meter read zero in the REF mode on each channel tested. After receiving and mounting a quick disconnect, bought for the car wash, the SWR Meter reacted normally with a REF value of .8 on channel one and 1.4 on channel 40.

Two questions: Is it worth bothering to adjust the antenna to even out the standing wave?
Mechanically speaking, is it better to have the quick disconnect bone or below the spring?

Next, deciding on cable routing. Looking at 3M command strips for routing cable across the interior bed side, going out the bed front plastic hole cover, go through the cab vent behind the rear seat. Inside the cab will be easier.

Ordered a NEW CB unit. Unidin 505, was $34, now $25 on Amazon. Repaired the broken magnetic mount antenna that came with my used CB. Had a plastic threaded piece on the antenna that screwed onto the base. Threads worn enough to pull the antenna out. Superglued that together. Good electrical connection. So now I'll be able to have the old CB usable in my wife's Explorer if we need to travel together separately.

[Boomerweps]

Looked at our local McDonald's, 9 foot drive thru.
After that I Thought, hmm, I'll bet there are internet references. Yup, 9' is the fast food standard BUT I saw a few warnings where some were lower.
Parking structure can be 7' but need to closer to 8' for handicapped conversion van parking spaces/entrances.
So, with 9' I can use a 4'. My forward bed side height is 55", so that's 4', 7". I rarely go in parking structures so I can keep a wrench handy to pull the antenna in those rare cases.
My yard sale special CB is a Radio Shack unit made by who knows.

Edit: OK, eBaying the 4' Firestik in red and the bed stake mount and a 12' connecting cable.

[ACZL]

I think my k40 antenna monted on plate for 3rd brake lite is 4'. It hits some drive thru overheads, but don't worry about it. As for CB's, go with Uniden. Cobra used to be good brand, but have really cheapened up in past several years. More than likely you can get by with just a plain Jane radio w/o a lot of bells-n-whistles.

[Boomerweps]

I found a truck bed stake pocket mount by Firestik that uses a flat metal piece that will stick out from under my tonneau cover for about $20. Next question. Antenna height vs. drive through? Tall as possible is best for the radio. Firestik makes them in 2, 3, 4 foot, etc. lengths. At a glance, 3' might work on the bedrail. 2' is a bit short for range. 4' will likely slam into every drive through limiter.
Thoughts? BTW, several decent new auto CBs for under $50 on Amazon.

[valhalla360]

KD4UPL wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:
If you start mounting steel brackets to aluminum body work, you want to keep the metal separated...otherwise galvanic corrosion will eat through the aluminum.

Not trying to argue, just curious. Are these aluminum body panels held together with aluminum hardware or is the hardware steel? Maybe it's all stainless?

They put coatings or plastic spacers on between any dissimilar metals.

Stainless steel will have the same issue if in direct contact with aluminum.

[Bumpyroad]

memtb wrote:
If you’re not trying to compete with the truckers, merely use it for relatively short range....a window mount is a nice, clean looking set-up! memtb

yep, just don't try to use them on dual pain windows. 🙂
bumpy

[memtb]

If you’re not trying to compete with the truckers, merely use it for relatively short range....a window mount is a nice, clean looking set-up! memtb

[KD4UPL]

valhalla360 wrote:
If you start mounting steel brackets to aluminum body work, you want to keep the metal separated...otherwise galvanic corrosion will eat through the aluminum.

Not trying to argue, just curious. Are these aluminum body panels held together with aluminum hardware or is the hardware steel? Maybe it's all stainless?

[Bumpyroad]

I use thru the glass mounts, which work fine for short distances. when I had a PU with cap I got a 5 " steel round disc and used silicone sealer to mount it.
bumpy

[RoyB]

I used NMO mounts on my rear doors for my 2010 F150 VHF/UHF antennas...


Roy's image

The only holes I drilled was in the truck bed rail for the LIL TARHEEL mount.

All cables entered the truck through the door seals...

ADDED NOTE: Check AMAZON for NMO AMTENNA MOUNTS. They have many different combinations for you...

Roy Ken