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How do you level?

samhain7
Explorer
Explorer
I am self taught...my method may. It be the best, so I am curious how you all tell you rig is level?
I have seen the bubble indicators you attach to the sides..which I may get. In the meantime, how do YOU tell your level?
Final notice from MasterCard. Good! I'm sick of hearing from them.
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2016 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins, E2 WD w/sway
2015 Starcraft Autumn Ridge 289BHS
57 REPLIES 57

jaycocreek
Explorer II
Explorer II
First and foremost I level the refer and everything else is fine. Side to side I use either 2x6's or the little RV orange levelers that come in a bag, depending on how much it needs to come up or down and sometimes I just dig a hole and pull into it on one side.

Doing it a million times one can just look at the level and see how much it needs to come up or down and how many blocks are needed.
Lance 9.6
400 watts solar mounted/200 watts portable
500ah Lifep04

Community Alumni
Not applicable
wmoses wrote:
PackerBacker wrote:
Boards under the tires to get it to where I want it. I don't use a level, I use the sliding door to the bathroom from the bedroom to get the left/right done and then I use the water flow to the shower drain to get the front/rear where it should be.

Seems like whole lot of trouble and time as opposed to using properly installed stick on levels. For one thing you have to go inside to check the sliding door and the water flow. :h

But if it works for you then that is all that counts. I just can't believe how this thread has taken off for something so trivial ... ๐Ÿ™‚

It was a habit from doing the same with the levellers on our Class A. I found that levelling with my 3' level didn't necessarily get to where the bedroom/bathroom door would stay closed properly. I guess the door was not 'level' inside the trailer. The other way, I just want to make sure that the shower water flows towards the drain and doesn't pool. Again using a level for front to back is likely easier however, one thing I should of mentioned is that when we set up, it's for 3-4 months at a time.

... Eric

wmoses
Explorer
Explorer
PackerBacker wrote:
Boards under the tires to get it to where I want it. I don't use a level, I use the sliding door to the bathroom from the bedroom to get the left/right done and then I use the water flow to the shower drain to get the front/rear where it should be.

Seems like whole lot of trouble and time as opposed to using properly installed stick on levels. For one thing you have to go inside to check the sliding door and the water flow. :h

But if it works for you then that is all that counts. I just can't believe how this thread has taken off for something so trivial ... ๐Ÿ™‚
Regards,
Wayne
2014 Flagstaff Super Lite 27RLWS Emerald Ed. | Equal-i-zer 1200/12,000 4-point WDH
2010 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE 5.3L 6-speed auto | K&N Filter | Hypertech Max Energy tune | Prodigy P3
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EcoBullet
Explorer
Explorer
I put a little 2" eyeball level on kitchen counter, use 2X8s under tires on low side, and use the tongue jack to level front to back. If reasonably close, call it good. I have more important things to stress over.
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AirForceAngler
Explorer
Explorer
I've just got the "stick-on" levels, one on the front of the TT and one on the driver's side front corner. Use boards for side-to-side, jack for front-to-rear. Close enough for gov't work.
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Community Alumni
Not applicable
Boards under the tires to get it to where I want it. I don't use a level, I use the sliding door to the bathroom from the bedroom to get the left/right done and then I use the water flow to the shower drain to get the front/rear where it should be.

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
My level rides shotgun. If it ain't level she'll tell me.
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
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2013 KZ Durango 2857

DustyR
Explorer
Explorer
First of all you can setup in some pretty nasty situations if need be, although I will pass on those if given a chance.
First and foremost with most modern trailers they need to be leveled side to side first. I usually use 2x10 blocks for initial leveling and if need be use the lego blocks to fine tune.
I then level front to rear using the hitch jack.
I use the 2x10 blocks and lego blocks under the stabilizers, I don't want them fully extended as they are more stable when partially extended.
Fine tune with a bubble level on the floor and also in the refrigerator.

DON'T FORGET TO CHOCK THE WHEELS. :*)
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Duramax, Allison Transmission.

krobbe
Explorer
Explorer
I use the iHandy Level app on my iPhone and some Lynx Leveler blocks under the tires.
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wmoses
Explorer
Explorer
downtheroad wrote:
Now that you have told me yours, like I promised, I'll tell you mine.
I level exactly like you do - except instead of lumber, I use Lynx Levelers.

Same here. This should not be a big to-do. Takes all of 5 minutes tops, provided the site is close to level - that is the first thing I check. Of course all depends on properly installed bubble levels which I have in both directions on the front RH corner of the RV. If the site is too unlevel in either direction I pass on it. Too much hassle for nothing.

Someone else mentioned opening a door and seeing how it swings and that is also a good way to fine tune the level - was especially important with my previous RV which had an ultra-sensitive bathroom door. If a separate beam level is used I think that the best place to put it is on the floor over the axles, in either direction. RVs flex a bit so putting it at either extremity would not give an averaged assessment of level.
Regards,
Wayne
2014 Flagstaff Super Lite 27RLWS Emerald Ed. | Equal-i-zer 1200/12,000 4-point WDH
2010 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE 5.3L 6-speed auto | K&N Filter | Hypertech Max Energy tune | Prodigy P3
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goducks10
Explorer
Explorer
I have one of those fancy pin box all in 1 levels. But lately I literally just walk inside and stand for a few seconds in the kitchen area. I then put what ever boards I feel we need. Then I use the all in one pin box level for FR to Bk. After that's done then we open the shower door. If it stays open than we nailed it. If not, well then next time:)

Aluminum_Siding
Explorer
Explorer
calamus wrote:
Aluminum Siding wrote:
2x8s and a chop saw.

X2 I carry a 4' level put it on the floor and measure then boards under the wheels as needed then front to back I always tip just a little bit to the drivers side and to the back so the ac drains away from the door side of the camper.


Soooo awesome. I do the exact same. Use a little blue 4 inch level i put on the floor just inside the entry door. I error a tiny tiny bit high on the side of the door. You can get an extra 5+ gallons in your tanks and when you dump it flows out faster leaving less in the tank.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Have a large pin box level......allows me to check side to side when I park 5vr.
I then use a 2X10x55 under the low side wheels (or add second 2X10X48 if needed)
I then use a 2' level on bottom of bedroom slide out for front to rear level.
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Boxerslave
Explorer
Explorer
Front high because I like my head above my toes when sleeping. Left low, then my shower door drips less. But I think I will trade all of my hard learned lessons for the whiskey glass method. Dave

kevden
Explorer
Explorer
I have a bubble level app for my android phone that I use sometimes, but most of the time I just eyeball it and use the door swing method mentioned earlier. The fridge does have a little % off of level that is still safe for operation. I am not going to fuss over getting the trailer perfectly level, I just want to get set up and have a beer! As long as we are not falling over trying to walk around or falling out of bed!
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2003 GMC Yukon XL 2500 4X4 Quadrasteer

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