I think I goofed.

[Rovito]

I had a Nissan Xterra pulling a KZ Sportsmen Classic 19BH. The Xterra pulled the camper with no problems in the power side of things as it was rated to pull 5000 pounds and the camper loaded was pushing 3000 pounds. The only real problem was the Xterra wheel base was only 106 inches and there was way too much sway for comfort. I found a 2001 F150 xlt supercab at a local dealership and did a quick google search on the towing capacity for that year and line. 7000 to 8000 pounds came up so I figured it would give me over a foot longer wheel base and up my towing capacity a couple thousand pounds at least. Done deal. Love the truck. No rust, low miles, has a factory towing package. Can't wait for spring to hook up and go! Today I was looking into specs on Fords generic towing guide and see that with my axle ratio at 3.08 I actually only have a 2000 pound rated tow capacity. I ran the vin on Fords site and one spec does say 3800 LB(1724 KG) Rear Axle Assy. My questions are, what will happen if I pull the 3000 pound camper with the truck as is? Is it worth the money to get the ratio changed to up the towing capacity? Why does it have the towing package built in only to haul 2000 pounds. Is there a way to tell if axle ratio has already been changed? I think I goofed.

[lawrosa]

yup 2000 lbs page 5.

The truck will probably pull it but put a big strain on trans and engine. ecpect to run hot... Burn it up..

3:31's get you 5900 lbs
3:55's gets you 6900 lbs ( with= Requires 16- or 17-inch (P275) wheel option)

If it was 4x4 it would have the better gears from factory

http://www.trailerlife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Trailer-Life-Towing-Guide-2001.pdf

[ggardne2]

Changing the axle ratio without understanding what drove the original 2000 lb towing limit will not necessarily increase your towing capacity. There is some component in the original truck build that is impacting your maximum trailer capacity. My educated guess is this particular truck is limited in powertrain cooling capacity (either transmission, engine oil, or radiator) and as a result the towing capacity was limited to 2000 lb. You need to verify what this truck has in terms of transmission coolers, whether it has an engine oil cooler, and the radiator size. Towing a trailer >2000 lb without the proper equipment on the truck could result in overheating of the transmission fluid, engine oil, and/or radiator coolant, particularly when pulling on grades.

[Old-Biscuit]

As shown on 'Certificate' sticker your axle code is 18 which is 3:08 NON-Limited Slip

Payload capacity is 1570# (Weight of ALL occupants and cargo---which includes trailer tongue weight)

Towing
Standard....ball on bumper 2000#
Maximum.....receiver with WDH 8000#
(MAX TOW Rating but real world tow capacity limited by 'payload' OR actualy LACK of payload.)

[lawrosa]

code 18

18 — 3.08 non-limited slip (F-150)

[FireRob]

Rovito wrote:
What's the worst case scenario if I pull as is?

Worst case? Your truck comes unbolted at every connection and bursts into a ball of flames and you can claim it on insurance and go buy a proper tow truck. That is prob not going to happen but if it did, it don't sound like a bad thing.

If it were me and getting another truck wasn't an option I guess I'd just do what ever you had originally plan to do with it

[lawrosa]

That chart is for a bumper pull I believe. My 1996 said the same thing in the book. 2000 lbs. Thats what it said on the bumper too..

But my truck in all the tow books stated 5500 lbs.

Like the fine print in the manual linked below..

He can/may tow 880 tw and 8800 trailer.

Let me check another chart from trailer life..

Required Equipment:
•Heavy Duty Electrical/Cooling Package or
Trailer Towing Group for trailers over 4000 lbs.
Optional Trailer Towing Package Content:
• 7-pin Trailer Wiring Harness and Connector
• Frame Mounted Hitch Receiver (Weight Carrying
Capacity—5000 lbs., Weight Distributing
Capacity—8800 lbs., Refer To Page 5)
• Heavy Duty Electrical/Cooling Package:
— Super Engine Cooling
— Auxiliary Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler
— 78 Amp.-hr. Heavy Duty Battery
• Heavy Duty Shock Absorbers (F-150 Only

[Bionic_Man]

It is a 5000 pound trailer. Don't over think it. You are fine.

[DanNJanice]

Rovito wrote:
I had a Nissan Xterra pulling a KZ Sportsmen Classic 19BH. The Xterra pulled the camper with no problems in the power side of things as it was rated to pull 5000 pounds and the camper loaded was pushing 3000 pounds. The only real problem was the Xterra wheel base was only 106 inches and there was way too much sway for comfort. I found a 2001 F150 xlt supercab at a local dealership and did a quick google search on the towing capacity for that year and line. 7000 to 8000 pounds came up so I figured it would give me over a foot longer wheel base and up my towing capacity a couple thousand pounds at least. Done deal. Love the truck. No rust, low miles, has a factory towing package. Can't wait for spring to hook up and go! Today I was looking into specs on Fords generic towing guide and see that with my axle ratio at 3.08 I actually only have a 2000 pound rated tow capacity. I ran the vin on Fords site and one spec does say 3800 LB(1724 KG) Rear Axle Assy. My questions are, what will happen if I pull the 3000 pound camper with the truck as is? Is it worth the money to get the ratio changed to up the towing capacity? Why does it have the towing package built in only to haul 2000 pounds. Is there a way to tell if axle ratio has already been changed? I think I goofed.

I just looked it up too, that is just a crazy amount of difference in towing capacity. You loose over 4000lbs of towing cap going from the 3.31 to the 3.08.
You need to talk to someone who really knows why there is such as big difference in towing capacity, to determine if it would be cost effective to change the ratio.
If you got a decent price on the truck, I would probably just sell it to break even, and pick up one with a 5.4V8.

[Tiger02]

If you can't get a new deal, and since it's only 2WD I would go with a re-gear or find an axle out of a junk yard from same year or newer.

Check out the Ford Truck Enthusiast forum. I'm sure you'll get some great advice there. FTE Forum

You basically have a pick-up with the same running gear that went into a Crown Vic. Makes for a great suburban use truck for mileage, but not much more.

[Rovito]

I have two anti sway friction bars and a weight distribution hitch from the Nissan. I just don't want to burn up the engine or rear end on the F150.

[agesilaus]

Rovito wrote:
What's the worst case scenario if I pull as is?

I doubt you'll have any problems try a test tow on an interstate with semi's passing you. That always brought out the trailer sway on my older vehicle. But a WDH will fix that if it occurs.

Remember that the TT tires will only be rated for 55 or 60 mph, exceed that and you start having blowouts when you are in the worst possible place to have one.

[agesilaus]

You may want to get a weight distributing hitch on an older truck. I think they may not be needed on the newest trucks since the truck itself will handle sway. AT least on the SD. But your truck will not have that.

[Rovito]

What's the worst case scenario if I pull as is?
I do have a good equalizer and anti sway system.

[Earl_E]

I'd make sure I have a good equalizer/anti-sway system and then give it a try. Take it easy on the first trip or two and see how it pulls, if it heats up, etc. If you are under powered then change the gears. Otherwise go with it.

[Grodyman]

I would re-gear, to 3.73 or 4.10. And make sure you have a transmission oil cooler. Good luck.
Gman