Idler and Tensioner Pulleys Ram 6.7

[SweetLou]

I am servicing my truck by replacing the belt at 80K, but also want to replace the idler pulley and the tensioner in my 2013 6.7 Cummins Ram. The tensioner choices are Cummins part for $125, Or a Gates for $80. Which would you go with, both probably made in China. Cummins maybe in Mexico.

[Grit_dog]

^ As usual, what he said.
Generally this is a concept or skill or knowledge that only people who are very familiar with machinery and managing machinery and its "cost" understand.
I would not have this "knowledge" had I had a different career path and interests. Guaranteed.
However one bad experience can gain a person a quick boost of knowledge or opinion at least on how things work. Example swetlou and the duramax pulley guy in previous posts.
I have the fortune or misfortune of, for the last 30 years, running, managing, repairing and being exposed to the operational costs of 1000s of pieces of different equipment and vehicles. My internal micro processor, lol, can sort out that X model of X vehicle had issues with a certain thing. Or never had to do X to any piece of equipment used in a certain manner.
Some of that knowledge give me more confidence in a machine or part and some makes me more wary.
And for me, and I'm sure others, the peace of mind that a potential issue has been handled prior to heading out on the road is also valuable, if you're of that mindset.

I recall all the "work" I did to the truck prior to moving to AK. Truck had 120k on it. Was going to be pulling rough duty in the trip up there and my "list" was long. Didn't include pullies though. Checked them and they were smooth. Partly becasue I didn't want any issues to side track the trip up and partly becasue I wanted to minimize shop time during our limited time to experience AK.

Made it to AK and around, no problem.
In retrospect, couple things on the "list" that I didn't do, I still haven't 50k miles later and no issues.
One big thing I didn't expect at all presented itself later on. The clutch.
And another couple things that were on the list happened in that timeframe while we were up there. Rear u joint and steering pump.

Point is, denegrating posts like 12Vs insinuating that since he has 400k on a set of pullies that the OP is stupid for changing them, just show his opinion is batting out of its league with respect to experience.

[time2roll]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

time2roll wrote:
Wait for 100k unless the belt shows cracking or chunks missing.
Do the pully at 200k unless the bearing is rough or excessive play.

Does the manual actually recommend 80k replacement?

Curious, what do you base this advice on?

I will change the belt at 100K for sure.

I suggest 100k unless the book is different.
What do you recommend for the OP and based on what?

[blt2ski]

Not saying the OP has this issue. BUT some of you that do a LOT of freeway miles like Cummins12v, will get more miles out of wear parts like this. If you are like me, you do more city or idling, a wear part may not last as long as the warranty or standard service replacement is recommending.
Way back in the day, I had a friend that had IDI7.3 diesels in his ford SD truck/pre F450 versions. Std like expectancy was 100K-200K miles for that motor. He rebuilt them every 3-4 year. As he does yard fertilization's, the motor was what ran the pump. So they would run/idle 12 hrs a day, 5-6 days a week. At the end of the year, they had 40-60K miles of wear, even tho he only drove some 20K miles a year.
Or does the OP drive in a lot of dirty air dusty conditions? that too could wear a part like this out sooner than expected.
In the mean time, not every one is like you, how you drive, operate your rigs etc. I'm one of those on the lower side of when I need to do things!

marty

[FlatBroke]

Had an idler pulley on my Duramax let go and went threw the radiator at 120,000 miles. Expensive! Then I find out that GM suggests replacing them all at 100,000 miles. I sure wouldn’t wait for 200,000.

[memtb]

If your 6.7 routing is the same as my ‘07.....you’ gonna “have a ball”! I tackled mine with no internet service and no decal (routing diagram) under the hood. I could have replaced the clutch quicker! :M memtb

[Cummins12V98]

time2roll wrote:
Wait for 100k unless the belt shows cracking or chunks missing.
Do the pully at 200k unless the bearing is rough or excessive play.

Does the manual actually recommend 80k replacement?

Curious, what do you base this advice on?

I have a MOPAR 1OOK warranty so at that time i may have OE belt, tensioner, water pump, coolant and idler on hand. They are all easy to change.

I will change the belt at 100K for sure.

[Grit_dog]

I do a lot of pre emotive maintenance too. Some of which seems silly to others.
80k is really early, but whatever. Your truck not mine.

Just don't use a gates belt or any other brand besides OEM or continental (used to be the Goodyear gator back belt). The rest are eventually, some sooner than others, squeaky, slipping mess.
Idk what it is, but get the right belt, or get some more practice changing it again.

And replacing the belt is a pain, but much easier if you take the tensioner off and replace it after the belt is reinstalled

[ScottG]

blofgren wrote:
OP, I would go OEM on this; it may be a few bucks more but at least you know what you're getting. JMHO.

X2. Cheap insurance.

[time2roll]

Wait for 100k unless the belt shows cracking or chunks missing.
Do the pully at 200k unless the bearing is rough or excessive play.

Does the manual actually recommend 80k replacement?

[blofgren]

OP, I would go OEM on this; it may be a few bucks more but at least you know what you're getting. JMHO.

[Cummins12V98]

SweetLou wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Cummins tensioner is made by Dayco. Looked at the part on Geno's Garage.

Cummins Idler pulley does not look like the Gates.

My question is why in the HE!! at 80k would you replace either one???

I still have the OE units on my 98 12V my Son owns at 420k.

Everyone is different. Had an '05 that nearly left me on side of the road with 90K on them. I don't like taking risks when towing and on long trips that I do. Preventative maintenance and since the belt is coming off, it's a perfect time to replace. Really not all that expensive when you think about it, but can be when on side of the road.

I understand, I have replaced plenty of parts that really didn't need to be.

Your money but bottom line buy Cummins branded or the exact same from OE supplier!

[SweetLou]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Cummins tensioner is made by Dayco. Looked at the part on Geno's Garage.

Cummins Idler pulley does not look like the Gates.

My question is why in the HE!! at 80k would you replace either one???

I still have the OE units on my 98 12V my Son owns at 420k.

Everyone is different. Had an '05 that nearly left me on side of the road with 90K on them. I don't like taking risks when towing and on long trips that I do. Preventative maintenance and since the belt is coming off, it's a perfect time to replace. Really not all that expensive when you think about it, but can be when on side of the road.

[ScottG]

My water pump went out at about 90K and the tensioner pulley's bearing was rough. I don't think it's a bad idea to replace it if you're in there.

[rhagfo]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Cummins tensioner is made by Dayco. Looked at the part on Geno's Garage.

Cummins Idler pulley does not look like the Gates.

My question is why in the HE!! at 80k would you replace either one???

I still have the OE units on my 98 12V my Son owns at 420k.

X2!
Our 2001 had 315K miles on it and the water pump went out, replacing the pump was a snap, the belt not so much a lot of tension to overcome to get the belt back on!

[ShinerBock]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Cummins tensioner is made by Dayco. Looked at the part on Geno's Garage.

That is what I wasn't sure about. Gates makes the tensioner pulleys form certain years and engine models while Dayco makes the rest. I wasn't sure which one the ISB was.