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In bed fuel transfer tank question

OverNightSensat
Explorer III
Explorer III
Looking to ad a 35-75 gallon in bed fuel transfer tank.(not an auxiliary/plumbed in) What type should I get, aluminum, steel or poly? Aluminum scares be because it is so thin, and steel will rust.
I was thinking poly, should be less condensation problem?
Please only respond if you have or had one of these. What is your experience?
2020 Chevrolet C/C 3500HD DRW Duramax
2021 Vengeance Rogue Armored 351 G2 Toy Hauler 45''
2021 Can Am Maverick Trail 1000 DPS

If a hammer can't fix it, you got yourself an electrical problem!
25 REPLIES 25

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
So part time use and frequent removal?
Good luck. At least a metal tank can be strapped down fairly securely for safety purposes or could even install some nut serts or weld nuts to the bottom of the bed for easier removal.
I’d be hard pressed to leave a fuel tank in my truck that isn’t somewhat “permanently” secured.
Safety issues aside, if not bolted down, it’s like Christmastime for tweakers every time you park it!
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

OverNightSensat
Explorer III
Explorer III
Thanks to all for all the replys. I should have mentioned that I don't want it plumbed into the truck as I need to remove it so I can use the entire bed when not traveling.
It looks like it is 6 of one and a half dozen of the other...
2020 Chevrolet C/C 3500HD DRW Duramax
2021 Vengeance Rogue Armored 351 G2 Toy Hauler 45''
2021 Can Am Maverick Trail 1000 DPS

If a hammer can't fix it, you got yourself an electrical problem!

Nv_Guy
Explorer III
Explorer III
40 Ga Aluminum in bed tank, probably 20K miles with zero issues, just install it as the manufacturer tells you (isolate aluminum from steel, allow the tank to move independently from the truck bed). I use a small fuel pump & nozzle to transfer the fuel, as I am to paranoid of warranty issues to alter factory tank neck.

S_Davis
Explorer
Explorer
I have a 52 gallon aluminum, it does form condensation(western WA) so I would plan either don’t draw off the bottom and have a drain or have some kind of water separator. I went off the bottom into a water separator and then to a 30gph pump which is plumbed into the trucks filler neck. I have the pump hooked up to a mechanical 30 minute timer, one twist and about 15 gallons transfers.



Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
Answer from someone who has run countless slip tanks both steel and aluminum.
Your fears about either material is 100% unfounded.
But you can get a plastic tank if you can’t get over the fear. However they are generally like the Fischer Price version of a time tested tool. In certain conditions I’m sure they’re fine and may offer a couple small discreet advantages like easily moveable or transferable between vehicles or locations. even though folks who probably profess to be safety conscious somehow have no issue with a large quantity of unsecured fuel container in the back of their truck.

And I’ll answer a question with a question. If a dedicated diesel tank for the truck, why the aversion to plumbing it in for hands free operation?
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Trackrig
Explorer II
Explorer II
Looking to ad a 35-75 gallon in bed fuel transfer tank.(not an auxiliary/plumbed in) What type should I get, aluminum, steel or poly? Aluminum scares be because it is so thin, and steel will rust.

I bought my steel tank to go in a new 1983 truck. The tank is now on it's third truck and doing fine. Next year will be 40 years on the tank.

Bill
Nodwell RN110 out moose hunting. 4-53 Detroit, Clark 5 spd, 40" wide tracks, 10:00x20 tires, 16,000# capacity, 22,000# weight. You know the mud is getting deep when it's coming in the doors.

Lantley
Nomad
Nomad
I have a 25 gallon Enduraplas transfer tank. It just sits in the bed next to the cab in front of the hitch. It works well. Has a built in 12 volt pump and standard gas station style fill nozzle.
I've had it about 5 years no problems. I paid 1/2 of what they are priced at now.
I power it with a 12 volt jump box.

19'Duramax w/hips, 2022 Alliance Paradigm 390MP >BD3,r,22" Blackstone
r,RV760 w/BC20,Glow Steps, Enduraplas25,Pedego
BakFlip,RVLock,Prog.50A surge ,Hughes autoformer
Porta Bote 8.0 Nissan, Sailun S637

Durb
Explorer
Explorer
I have aluminum and it works fine. Inexpensive and good looking. Easy to fabricate with fill tubes and custom outlets plus custom dimensions. Square corners for maximum space utilization as opposed to poly. Not UV sensitive.

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
Transferflow 50 gal diesel tank, steel ( I think), 12v hand pump. Worked fine.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
Considering it's going to be in the bed of the truck and subject to who-know-what impacts, sharp objects, etc., I wouldn't consider anything but aluminum. That's what mine is.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

blt2ski
Moderator
Moderator
A lot of new construction boats are using poly or built in FRP fuel, water and black/gray tanks.

If you can get a correctly designed poly, it would be on lighter side like aluminum. The newest designs do expand in hot weather, contract in cooler weather. Some older designs will expand, not contract back.

Look up portable marine tanks to farther understand issues I'm talking about. Attwood has good info on their website. Where I work, we have portable transfer tanks to 50 gals for marine use. They have wheels, hose, nozzle, and need a foot pump, or small 12v battery, like a U1 size, to operate.

I've been using poly portable1-5 gal tanks for 30 years with no issues. I have no use in the past, or current future use. I would consider a poly before a steel. No aluminum tanks to my knowledge.

Marty
92 Navistar dump truck, 7.3L 7 sp, 4.33 gears with a Detroit no spin
2014 Chevy 1500 Dual cab 4x4
92 Red-e-haul 12K equipment trailer