Is a battery required?

[AirForceAngler]

We have never camped anywhere there wasn't 120v. I'd like to remove the battery from the front and install a second LP bottle with an automatic changeover valve like our TT had. I ask the question because years ago I helped a guy out at the campground that also had a pup and when the furnace kicked on all of the lights would dim or go out. They had just purchased the pup and when I looked at it the battery was there, just not connected. I connected the battery for them and everything worked as advertised. Also, if I keep the battery, is the converter compatible with an AGM type battery? I have an Optima blue top I'd like to install instead. It is one I had left over after changing trolling batteries on my boat and I know that these usually require a special charger.

[AirForceAngler]

Roy, that's a heck of a setup there! We don't get off the grid much so I don't need quite that much battery power!
I've been to LRAFB but was never stationed there. I did spend 7 years stationed at Blytheville AFB, though. Long 7 years! They finally had to close it for me to get out of there!

[RoyB]

This is my OFF-ROAD POPUP layout showing where my Converters, Inverters, etc and batteries are located.






This is my current 255AH setup for batteries for the past five years but am planning on replacing with two 150AH batteries on the trailer tongue and two more 150AH batteries in the bed of my truck like shown in the floor plan.


It all depends on what you want to do with your PUP when camping. We like to go back off the road and do the hiking and setting around the campfire and enjoying the woods atmosphere but also like to catch up with the kids using internet and the weather/news using HDTV with my OTA Batwing antenna just before going to bed as well.

I am also a Ham Radio guy and that includes check in with the various radio nets with my other Ham Radio friends. I also use my OFF-ROAD POPUP setup for various emergency radio communication networks. Our game plan is be setup to run all the 120VAC and 12VDC items we want to run when camping off the power grid in a one day/night camping and then recharge the battery banks the next morning during breakfast in a quick three hour time frame using the on-board smart mode converter/charger being operated by our 2KW Honda Generator.


My wife usually goes with me on all trips so it fun being able to provide for all situations... I don't think I could survive very long without batteries. I wish I had some solar panels on my POPUP roof now to help keep what I got being charged all day long when the sun is out.

From my air force days at LRAFB AR back inthe 60s I also took a liking to dropping a hook every now then my self as well... Don't know if you was at Little Rock but there is a good fishing hole about 30 minutes in every direction. We ran the COMMS for the missle silos back then and a fish pole was inside every govt road truck trip haha..

Even got close to where Bondebond lives every morning at Searcy AR getting our morning coffee at the local truck stop before hitting the missle silos northwest and west from there.....

Roy Ken

[full_mosey]

AirForceAngler wrote:
We have never camped anywhere there wasn't 120v. I'd like to remove the battery from the front and install a second LP bottle with an automatic changeover valve like our TT had. I ask the question because years ago I helped a guy out at the campground that also had a pup and when the furnace kicked on all of the lights would dim or go out. They had just purchased the pup and when I looked at it the battery was there, just not connected. I connected the battery for them and everything worked as advertised. Also, if I keep the battery, is the converter compatible with an AGM type battery? I have an Optima blue top I'd like to install instead. It is one I had left over after changing trolling batteries on my boat and I know that these usually require a special charger.

Your situation is similar to when I had a PUP. I moved the AGM battery to inside the PUP. This freed up space on the tongue.

The AGM went into the back of one of the storage bins, out of the way and somewhat inaccessible. I ran a red 10GA wire from the converter charge line down through the floor, under the PUP and up to the battery + with a 40A fuse in line. Battery - went to the trailer frame. I joined all of the 12V + wires behind the converter with the charge line so that they had a battery connection even without any 120V power to the converter.

HTH;
John

[AirForceAngler]

Thanks everyone. Bondebond had a good idea to try disconnecting it while camping sometime to test it and I'll think I'll do that. The breakaway system on this one has it's own battery. I'm trying to work on moving the battery mount so I can keep it and add the second LP bottle but a lift cable is in the way of where I want to put it. We'll see! Thanks again.

[time2roll]

AGM is generally fine on the converter if the Optima will fit better with dual propane tanks.

[skipnchar]

Check the state laws concerning trailer brakes in your state. Different states have different weights above which trailer brakes are required. Without a battery in place no trailer braking would be possible if an emergency disconnect should occur and that is what trailer brake laws are all about usually.

As for the NEED when camping, MOST converters work very well with no battery in the line but of course, if you ever use the RV as a self contained unit then you would have ZERO lighting or anything else electrical.

Good luck / Skip

[ChooChooMan74]

If your trailer has brakes, a battery is required for the breakaway. Also, if 12V demand is over the output of the converter, then you could use a battery.

[bondebond]

You can completely do away with the battery with a few thibngs kept in mind, provided that you always have 120v AC power where you camp. Otherwise, if you get caught in a situation, you have to go cold turkey on all electrically-powered appliances for the duration.

Your refrigerator does not require any electrical power to operate if on LP unlike TT-sized refrigerators. There is no control board to manage the thermostat, so you would be fine with using LP or 120v AC.

Your furnace does require 12v DC to operate. This will be supplied by your onboard converter taking 120v AC to 12v DC as you pointed out. This also includes the 12v water pump and anything else on the 12v system. Again, as long as you have 120v AC, you'll be fine.

Where the camping neighbor ran into problems sounds like the converter could just not keep up with the demand. That's where the battery came into play, providing some of the required power.

You can pull the fuse on the charge line to the battery, bundle up the cables from the terminal connections and secure them to the A frame of the PUP for future use as needed. I would not remove any wiring or connections as you never know what the future holds and you may want to go back to a battery or selling to the next owner might want that option. Just protect them from moisture and corrosion and see how it works for you.

You might try camping a time or two with the battery disconnected and see how it works for you and where you need to make an adjustment, if needed.

Thankfully, I have dual LP tanks with a group 31 battery. For weekenders, it works out well when I don't have shore power. For trips longer than that, a second battery and/or solar would great. I have generators so that works, just louder than I want. I'm there for nature sounds among other reasons.

[aslakson]

it powers many thibngs

I've got several thibngs on my rig I haven't figured out yet. Is there a good thibngs website someplace?

:B

al

[bldrbuck]

Yess You should keep the battery it powers many thibngs.

[naturist]

Does your trailer have brakes? If so, the battery is required both for safety and by law.