Leveling blocks

[Varmintmist]

Ok, newbie question. Since I am a newbie, it only seems right.

2x6 or 2x8? 3 or 4?

I had a little time tonight so I did the setup for loading and driveway camping test run. I had 2x4's so she is leveled with those. I think 2x8s would give me a bit more room, and take up a bit more room in storage and I am pretty sure I can hit the 2x6's. Looked at the Lego blocks, and 45+- bucks for them offends my Scottish side and I dont see a compelling reason to spend the cash beyond weight.

[opnspaces]

Vintage465 wrote:

Vintage465 wrote:
I cut out four 4x6x12, four 2x6x12, two chocks out of rough 6x6 redwood.
[img][/img]
Then I built this box. It fits under my tonneau cover on the pickup. There is just not enough room in my little 20fq for leveling blocks
[img][/img]
They all fit in just like this. The rope grabs are a nice feature so you can grab 4 or 5 at once to disburse them around the coach[img][/img]
Since I built this set up in 2016, I've not needed any other type leveling materials. I am pretty selective about my sites when boon docking though. I keep one set of Lego's just in case. The redwood is super light when it dries out. Durable enough since there are few if any knots.

Anyone have any ideas why my pics don't show. I uploaded them like I always do and I got a nasty gram in red say I didn't follow protocol. So I uploaded them with the little icon image thing on the tool bar and it loaded like that above.

I know you fixed it in a future post, but the reason your pictures don't show is you correctly used the RV.net posting tool and copied the link it provided, but then used the icon at the top of the posting window to post. When you use the RV.net posting tool you have to just post the link directly into the window where you are typing.

The fix for your pictures is easy. Just edit your original post and you will see the beginning and ending of your pictures have a double set of square brackets with IMG in them, one in lower case and one in upper case. Just delete the square brackets and the lower case img's from the post and your pictures will appear.

[Varmintmist]

myredracer wrote:

Varmintmist wrote:
and 45+- bucks for them offends my Scottish side and I dont see a compelling reason to spend the cash beyond weight.

Lol! Scottish background here too.

[Varmintmist]

WTP-GC wrote:
Classic RVer mentality (for the newbies and experienced):
"We just spent $25K on a new RV but $25 for a bag of leveling blocks that will get used on every trip is way too much money. But let's go buy a $20 board and cut it up."

The trick is to not buy it twice unless it has served its useful life. I can spend with the best of them, but I hate doing it twice for something that doesnt live up to expectations. I have blocked a lot of different things with wood on construction (low boys), car haulers, and utility trailers and I know it works. Just looking for good reasons to try something different.
FYI ordered a set of Camco blocks from Amazon. I think that those supplemented by 2x6x9's and some 4x4x9-12's and other stuff from the barn will probably get me going. Weight and moisture are good arguments for the plastic Lego's since I am going to do my best to keep trailer stuff out of the truck.

[rbpru]

I take two 2x12s, each is 5 ft. long. They are heavy, a bit cumbersome and I carry them in the bed of the tow vehicle. The are stored in the TT storage compartment when not in use.

They work great.

I simply back into the campsite and when I am satisfied with TT position, I set the boards next to the low side tires. I pull forward five feet and slide one or stack both of the boards behind the wheels as needed for level; Then I back up five feet. Easy peasy.....:)

Yes, as I said, they are bulky and a bit cumbersome to store but when I am done, I have both tires sitting squarely on a one foot by five foot wooden platform, with up to 4 inches of level.

[SoundGuy]

IAMICHABOD wrote:
I tried the Lego type blocks but found that they broke to easy and were a pain to setup when you don't get it right the first time and had to drive off,re-stack, and make them higher,to labor intensive.

I solved the cracking issue by mounting a layer of Lynx to a length of 3/4" plywood that hinges in half for easy storage. The Lynx blocks won't crack regardless of the terrain they're sitting on, won't shift out of position, and provide a locked base on which additional Lynx can be set. I've used this system for years on a variety of trailers, works like a charm. After a few uses you get to know how much lift you need on the low side and I've rarely had to pull off the stack to change the height.



A series of pics illustrating how I built this Lynx / Wood leveling system starts here - click on the "i" at the top right of any pic for a text description.

Lynx / Wood Leveling System

[librty02]

Lynx Levelers hands down...Leave those big heavy chunks of wood in the lumber yard. The Lynx levelers have held up for 15 years now from the beach heat to the freezing snowy winters and I have yet to break one. $28 a set on amazon.

[OleManOleCan]

ppine wrote:
2x6s work fine but they split after they are driven on for awhile.
Bevel the edges.
I like the plastic blocks and mostly use those.

When 2x6 split burn em in campfires.
I use 2x8s and have lost a couple over the years, but they are easy to replace.

[Vintage465]

Vintage465 wrote:
I cut out four 4x6x12, four 2x6x12, two chocks out of rough 6x6 redwood.
[img][/img]
Then I built this box. It fits under my tonneau cover on the pickup. There is just not enough room in my little 20fq for leveling blocks
[img][/img]
They all fit in just like this. The rope grabs are a nice feature so you can grab 4 or 5 at once to disburse them around the coach[img][/img]
Since I built this set up in 2016, I've not needed any other type leveling materials. I am pretty selective about my sites when boon docking though. I keep one set of Lego's just in case. The redwood is super light when it dries out. Durable enough since there are few if any knots.

There's the pics

[Vintage465]

IAMICHABOD wrote:

Vintage465 wrote:
Anyone have any ideas why my pics don't show. I uploaded them like I always do and I got a nasty gram in red say I didn't follow protocol. So I uploaded them with the little icon image thing on the tool bar and it loaded like that above.

Did you use This method of posting pictures?
I just did and it worked fine.

Yup I did. Been using that upload link for a couple years now I think. Seems to be the best pic-adder of all the forums I visit. I'll give it another shot.

[IAMICHABOD]

Vintage465 wrote:
Anyone have any ideas why my pics don't show. I uploaded them like I always do and I got a nasty gram in red say I didn't follow protocol. So I uploaded them with the little icon image thing on the tool bar and it loaded like that above.

Did you use This method of posting pictures?
I just did and it worked fine.

[westend]

FWIW, I raid construction dumpsters (I ask permission, first) for LVL scraps. The engineered wood is not prone to rot and won't break if you hit it with a sledge hammer. A couple of longer pieces, cut into blocks and leaving one or two longer with angle cuts serves well. The LVL is typically 8" or greater in width.

[myredracer]

Varmintmist wrote:
and 45+- bucks for them offends my Scottish side and I dont see a compelling reason to spend the cash beyond weight.

Lol! Scottish background here too. But am an engineer and I love my gadgets & mods for the TT - trumps my heritage every time. 🙂 However, DW is an accountant and loves cheap. We butt heads a lot on stuff for the TT. 😞

We bought 3 sets of the yellow lego blocks 8 years ago. Have only broken a couple because of the stoney surface on a site. What I really like about them is they hardly take up any space in the pass-through and are very light. They also work great for leveling the BBQ or a picnic table and you can even make a step out of them when you're on a site with a lot of slope sideways and your bottom entry step is way off the ground.

As mentioned, also work for putting under stab. and tongue jacks. I have 3 short pieces of pressure treated 6x6 I use for the tongue jack because they're more stable and are also stored in the pass-through.

[Vintage465]

Vintage465 wrote:
I cut out four 4x6x12, four 2x6x12, two chocks out of rough 6x6 redwood.
[img][/img]
Then I built this box. It fits under my tonneau cover on the pickup. There is just not enough room in my little 20fq for leveling blocks
[img][/img]
They all fit in just like this. The rope grabs are a nice feature so you can grab 4 or 5 at once to disburse them around the coach[img][/img]
Since I built this set up in 2016, I've not needed any other type leveling materials. I am pretty selective about my sites when boon docking though. I keep one set of Lego's just in case. The redwood is super light when it dries out. Durable enough since there are few if any knots.

Anyone have any ideas why my pics don't show. I uploaded them like I always do and I got a nasty gram in red say I didn't follow protocol. So I uploaded them with the little icon image thing on the tool bar and it loaded like that above.

[Vintage465]

I cut out four 4x6x12, four 2x6x12, two chocks out of rough 6x6 redwood.
[img][/img]
Then I built this box. It fits under my tonneau cover on the pickup. There is just not enough room in my little 20fq for leveling blocks
[img][/img]
They all fit in just like this. The rope grabs are a nice feature so you can grab 4 or 5 at once to disburse them around the coach[img][/img]
Since I built this set up in 2016, I've not needed any other type leveling materials. I am pretty selective about my sites when boon docking though. I keep one set of Lego's just in case. The redwood is super light when it dries out. Durable enough since there are few if any knots.