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Leveling TT W/ A Large Slide (or 2)

Need-A-Vacation
Explorer
Explorer
Our last tt only had a 6' long, 18" deep slide and I never noticed any settling to the slide side after we were all set up, just the normal- need to snug all 4 scissor jacks up a little after a few hours/overnight.

So with our new Jayco 32 BHDS having 2 deep slides, couch/dinette and a bunk room slide, will it settle a lot once set updue to the size of the slides? Should we level a little toward the curb (+1" or so) so once the slides are out it will be level for the fridge?

We pick up our new rig tomorrow, and have a trip this w/e, so just trying to get ready (including packing it Fri! Lol).

TY!
Bubba J- '13 Chevy Silverado 2500HD LT CCSB 4x4 6.0

'16 Jay Flight 32 BHDS ELITE 32 BHDS Mods Reese DC HP

WDH Set Up. How a WDH Works. CAT Scale How To.
28 REPLIES 28

Doug33
Explorer
Explorer
rbpru wrote:


Unless we are on concrete or other very hard surface, the stabilizers will loosen and need to be tweaked occasionally.


Very true - in grass/dirt areas, they can loosen significantly, especially if you have a lot of people moving around in the TT. If I'm on site for week, I find myself snugging up the stabilizers almost daily. It only takes a few seconds with my drill. I find that using Lynx leveler blocks helps to distribute the load and settling, but does not eliminate it. I also noticed that there can be significant settlement or movement if you get a rain storm.
2014 Keystone Bullet 281BHS
2002 Chevy Avalanche 5.3L 4x4
Equalizer hitch
Nights spent camping in 2015: 25
Next trip: mid-April 2016?

GaryWT
Explorer
Explorer
Slides are designed to support themselves so we do not use supports on them, not worth the possible damage.
ME '63, DW 64, (DS 89 tents on his own, DD 92 not so much), DS 95
2013 Premier Bullet 31 BHPR 2014 F350 Crew Cab 6.2L 3.73

RedRocket204
Explorer
Explorer
I've never got my TT into an unlevel situation bad enough to where the refrigerator wouldn't work... includes not leveling on my driveway and the refrigerator works fine on either electric or gas. Unless there are some refrigerators that are really sensitive to an unlevel situation, I get the feeling talk of having to be completely level for the refrigerator to work is probably over exaggerated on this forum.

Now if you are discussing level for a slide that only uses a metal bar as a dam to keep water out, that is a different story and it would help to have the slide side slightly down anyway.
I love me some land yachting

campigloo
Explorer
Explorer
Level can be over emphasized. It does need to be close, but a centimeter here and there is not a death sentence for your rig. I have large slides on opposite sides from each other. I get it close to level with blocks under the tires. If I want to tweak it a little, I use the weight of the extended slides to adjust side to side. When you put the jacks down is not a major concern, before or after, just put some weight on them to get a firm set. I may have to tighten one ocassionally, but not often.

Need-A-Vacation
Explorer
Explorer
pira114 wrote:
Isn't this exactly what slide out stabilizers are for?


While I haven't read the Jayco manual yet to see if they suggest them or are against them, it is my understanding that if you set up slide out stabilizers, and the rig still settles some, it could damage the slide out. Not something I am willing to take the chance on.

TY to all! I guess as long as it didn't settle more than 1/2"-1" from level it would help the a/c (and that "r" stuff we all hate when camping) drain away from the curb side "in theory"! Lol
Bubba J- '13 Chevy Silverado 2500HD LT CCSB 4x4 6.0

'16 Jay Flight 32 BHDS ELITE 32 BHDS Mods Reese DC HP

WDH Set Up. How a WDH Works. CAT Scale How To.

pira114
Explorer II
Explorer II
Isn't this exactly what slide out stabilizers are for?

GaryWT
Explorer
Explorer
We find the softer the ground the more tilt you might get. I always put the jacks down before the slides go out. After the slides are out we give the awning side jacks an extra turn. If the slide side is slightly down, the fridge will be fine. Best to have it level or down a little, if the slide side is high there is a better chance for a leak if it rains.
ME '63, DW 64, (DS 89 tents on his own, DD 92 not so much), DS 95
2013 Premier Bullet 31 BHPR 2014 F350 Crew Cab 6.2L 3.73

rbpru
Explorer II
Explorer II
I belong to the group that levels the TT, puts the slide out then drops the stabilizers. I might give the slide side a touch more pressure.

However, I can tell you from experience if you try to lift the frame you will flex it. Doors stick and even the lock would not align.

Unless we are on concrete or other very hard surface, the stabilizers will loosen and need to be tweaked occasionally.
Twenty six foot 2010 Dutchmen Lite pulled with a 2011 EcoBoost F-150 4x4.

Just right for Grandpa, Grandma and the dog.

jasoncw
Explorer
Explorer
Robbies grandpa wrote:
Not true. Even with the stablilizers down, the trailer will shift on the springs a little with a big slide. I set my trailer up with the slide side high a quarter bubble and when the slide goes out, I am level.

Same here. Further, I do not drop the stabilizer jacks until the slides are out.
2016 Jayco Eagle 324BHTS
2005 Ford Excursion 6.8L 4.56's, V/C Springs, PP 3P, P3

Past:
2011 Keystone Bullet Premier 31BHPR
2009 Forest River Flagstaff 830RBSS

Robbies_grandpa
Explorer
Explorer
Not true. Even with the stablilizers down, the trailer will shift on the springs a little with a big slide. I set my trailer up with the slide side high a quarter bubble and when the slide goes out, I am level.

Need-A-Vacation
Explorer
Explorer
donn0128 wrote:
No. If you get the stabilizers solidly down on a solid base the trailer should not shift.


TY!!! Thats good to hear!
Bubba J- '13 Chevy Silverado 2500HD LT CCSB 4x4 6.0

'16 Jay Flight 32 BHDS ELITE 32 BHDS Mods Reese DC HP

WDH Set Up. How a WDH Works. CAT Scale How To.

donn0128
Explorer II
Explorer II
No. If you get the stabilizers solidly down on a solid base the trailer should not shift.

Need-A-Vacation
Explorer
Explorer
Maybe I need to clarify how I level:

I use 2x10's to level side to side, chock wheels, unhook truck, level front to rear, set scissor jacks so they are "snug" but not lifting the trailer, then start plugging in electric, water, put slide out, awning up, etc...

With the new trailer having a larger and deeper slide, plus the bunk room slide (both slides on drivers/ road side), if I level as I have up to this point, then put the slides out, will the trailer possibly lean a little toward the slides side, throwing the fridge off some? If so, do you guys "adjust" for this when leveling (another 1" board under slide side), so after the slides are out the firdge is then level?

TY!
Bubba J- '13 Chevy Silverado 2500HD LT CCSB 4x4 6.0

'16 Jay Flight 32 BHDS ELITE 32 BHDS Mods Reese DC HP

WDH Set Up. How a WDH Works. CAT Scale How To.

lawrosa
Explorer
Explorer
Those scissor jacks are not levelers. They only stabilize..

Put levelers under the wheels for side to side , then put the slides out .

Then use tongue jack to level fore/aft...

Then crank stabilizers (scissors) to just minimize the rocking.. If there is settling then snug up the scissors some.

They are not meant to level. You should not have full weight of TT on them..

And if you twist the frame trying to level and put the slide in or out you can mess up the slide mechanics and it will be expensive to fix..

Most dealers know people do this and dont cover under warranty.. Maybe a one time deal if your lucky..

( My answer based on my neighbors new trailer where he messed up his slide doing that. It still dont fit right and seal after numerous repairs..)
Mike L ... N.J.

2006 Silverado ext cab long bed. 3:42 rear. LM7 5.3 motor. 300 hp 350 ft lbs torgue @ 4000 rpms
2018 coachmen Catalina sbx 261bh