Maintenance

[Padlin]

While in Phoenix over the winter I stopped at a Ford dealer for an oil change on my F150 Ecoboost. During check out, after the 90 minute job, they mumbled that I was due for a Brake System Flush, a Fuel System Flush, and a Coolant System Flush, $200-$250 each. After mumbling back that they were out of there mind I left.

The only one I ever heard of was the coolant flush, which Ford says is due at 100k. So I goggled the others and they do indeed exist, and are recommended by the web sites I visited. I have 70K on the 2012, about 30K of towing. The Scheduled Maintenance Guide for truck says nothing about these flushes, other then the coolant.

Do any of you folks have a brake or fuel system flush done? if so how often?

Figure I'll have the coolant done before next winters trip, and maybe the tranny although Ford says 150k for that one, but the rest?

[Grit_dog]

Dr_Holiday wrote:
Having worked on cars and trucks all my life I've never heard of a brake flush. Now having said that most people when they change breaks compress the caliper piston and push the fluid back up into the lines. Thats a no no.. You should open the bleeder and pump out the old fluid when compressing the caliper piston.

Fuel system flush / cleaning is a scam. Most modern cars run much hotter internal temps than cars ever 10 years ago. This hotter temp allows the car to run much more efficient and reduces the "carbon buildup" on the valves that the fuel system flush removes.

As for the coolant flush. Dont have that done at ANY shop that does not use factory pre mix fluid! Most will buy concentrate and cut it 50/50 with tap water. The minerals in the tap water will collect and begin to cause problems, and they tend to do it in areas like the turbo thats good and hot.

Dealerships are notorious for this. Most "Quick service" places also use tap water. This will cause massive problems down the road.

Brake flush is the real deal, but yeah I do brakes the "wrong " way too. However it's done, it's good to get fluid out of the system and replaced periodically.

[BenK]

DIY with the 'C' clamp method takes less than an hour for both fronts and also flushes the whole front system all the way to the MC reservoir


Mazda B2500, Ford Ranger is the same thing



Buddies K1500 Suburban...most all different OEMs are about the same

Leave in the old pads, Open the bleeder screw, put on a bleeder screw hose to catch jug, place 'C' clamp to compress the caliper...all the way and the fluid will come out the bleeder screw hose into the catch jug

Close the bleeder screw, loosen the 'C' clamp and pump the brake pedal till it is 'firm'. That has the fluid leave the MC reservoir and make sure to have a fresh/new bottle of brake fluid turned upside down into the MC reservoir...do NOT let it go dry...

Do that a couple times for each caliper and only have to compress it a 3rd or 4th time, but this time take out the old pads and put in the new pads...


Tried several different brands of ceramic pads...do NOT like them. Good old high performance HD much better




This shows the out-gas slot and anti-squeal backing shim

[filrupmark]

lenr wrote:
Fuel system flush--who are they kidding? Don't you do that every time you fill your tank???

And a high volume flush every time we tow our trailers. Lol

[Dave_H_M]

Relax, you did good.

That sounds like the local Toyota stealer. Took the wife's Toyo in for a 30K oil change. They came up with a fancy spread sheet that only had a price tag on it for $450. The guy even kept a straight face when he presented it. Toyo does not call for any of that stuff. :R

The sad part is that I have been setting in the waiting room when the service guy comes in and recommends crapola like that and the silver haired senior citizen says something like, well if it is necessary, I guess it needs to be done.

[Groover]

I have had brake issues on older vehicles(pre 1990) that I felt were related to water getting into the system and causing corrosion. It does seem that the newer vehicles are made better and this is not as much of a problem. I used to flush the lines myself just by getting someone else to mash the brake pedal while I cracked the bleed valves and bled out dirty fluid replacing it as needed. Cost was just a few dollars and doesn't take long. I like the suggestion of opening the bleed valve while compressing the caliper for new pads and then putting new fluid in to replace what you let out. It never hurts to look at your brake fluid and make sure that it looks clean while under the hood for other reasons.

[K-9_HANDLER]

On our trucks:
Tranny fluid 30K - has been a nice pink color with this interval
Tansfer/ diffs 50k
Brake fluid every 5 years
Coolant every 5 years
Fuel never
Cars:
Coolant every 5
Brake fluid as needed per inspection
Tranny per manufacturers interval
Fuel never

[Camper_G]

Fuel system flush, perhaps their term for cleaning the injectors, which is not a bad thing to do from time to time, but I typically don't bother with it. I run a bottke6 of chevron techron through every so often and that keeps things good for me.

Tranny fluid and filter every 30k, along with both diffs and the transfer case, regardless of what the manual says. Coolant is very important. Antifreeze looses it's anti-corrosive properties over time. I usually do mine every 3-5yrs, regardless of mileage. This is just what i do. I'm more perticular than most with my equipment

[Dr_Holiday]

Having worked on cars and trucks all my life I've never heard of a brake flush. Now having said that most people when they change breaks compress the caliper piston and push the fluid back up into the lines. Thats a no no.. You should open the bleeder and pump out the old fluid when compressing the caliper piston.

Fuel system flush / cleaning is a scam. Most modern cars run much hotter internal temps than cars ever 10 years ago. This hotter temp allows the car to run much more efficient and reduces the "carbon buildup" on the valves that the fuel system flush removes.

As for the coolant flush. Dont have that done at ANY shop that does not use factory pre mix fluid! Most will buy concentrate and cut it 50/50 with tap water. The minerals in the tap water will collect and begin to cause problems, and they tend to do it in areas like the turbo thats good and hot.

Dealerships are notorious for this. Most "Quick service" places also use tap water. This will cause massive problems down the road.

[BenK]

Yup...instantly know trying to dip deeper into their customers pocket with that fuel flush quote...

Brake fluid is hydroscpic...meaning it will absorb it out of the air and should be flushed at each pad or shoe charge...or every 2-3 tears. Color is one key indicator...it will darken as it absorbs moisture. I don't recommend ever top up the brake MC reservoir...it is a good indicator of fluid level...

If you are into keeping the fluids "fresh"...flush the diff fluid too...and...the most ignored fluid...the power steering fluid...


PS...the newer OATs and HOATs MUST be flushed per the manual recommendation...ruination of the system much higher than with American Green coolant

[time2roll]

Fuel flush is bogus. Get some fuel treatment at pep boys if you feel obligated.

Coolant replacement go by the book (100k) and you should never need a 'flush'. Use distilled water only to dilute new coolant or to rinse out the old.

Brake fluid I recommend when you get new pads or shoes. Or by the book if in a humid climate. I do my own with a $50 pressure bleeder. Motive Products.

Transmission be sure to use the severe duty schedule since you are towing.

JMHO

[Jim2007]

Hi...I check the owners manual and followe that. Jim2007

[Padlin]

They certainly thought so.

Wonder how many actually fall for it.

[lawnspecialties]

Sounds like you were due for a wallet flush, too.

[Padlin]

Grit dog wrote:

Don't forget axles, t case, power steering. 70kmi not sure what you've done to date.

Oil, brakes, and tires, along with topping off anything that gets low is about it.

[Grit_dog]

lenr wrote:
Fuel system flush--who are they kidding? Don't you do that every time you fill your tank???

That ones a total sham. They don't call em stealers for nothing!
Coolant, 100k is a good rule of thumb and if no other issues present, is not super time sensitive, IMO. I.e. 3 years or 5 years.
Brakes, my rule of thumb is 4-5 years. But I've never done a real brake flush. I'll suck the master cyl dry and replace several times over the course of weeks or months. Not as good because it doesn't truly flush through the calipers but it does mix and remove old fluid. Combined almost 300k on my 2 daily drivers now, 10 and 11 years old and on original brake hydraulic components.

Don't forget axles, t case, power steering. 70kmi not sure what you've done to date.