Need advice on my first camper truck

[Dr_Science]

Hi. I'm a long time camper and sometime van dweller, but now I've repurposed and am looking for a vehicle to carry an 8-ft Alaskan camper (which I'm also searching for). I do a lot of travel in remote areas with awful roads so I'm looking for a fairly short vehicle, hi clearance 4WD, probably a standard-cab American pickup with a short lift (2-3") and some bash plates added. It must have a payload capacity of 3680 lb to carry my projected loads, and it wouldn't hurt to have some excess on that since it will almost always be carrying the camper. So that means marginally a 2500-class or easily a 3500-class pickup. I've never owned such a big rig before. I'm considering both gas and diesel, each seems to have its own merits and flaws, but engines for those rigs range from 5.3 to 7.8 liter; how important is that displacement, really, if not worried about maintaining 80 mph on the Interstate? Also I notice a lot of options for alternator capacity; if I have the choice, should I go for 300 A or more capacity? Are front-end suspension upgrades desirable for this kind of load? Are stock engine cooling systems adequate, or will upgrades be needed? What else should I be thinking about in the areas of suspension and protection?

[restlessways]

As for off-roading, with a TC this is no Jeep anymore. That TC will be rockin-n-rollin back there as the tie-downs are not meant to hold it like it is bolted in.

I had an 8' Alaskan for a few years. They actually have 4 holes in the floor to bolt it to the bed of the truck. And Alaskans are very light insofar as truck campers go. I still kick myself for selling it. It was an early 70s model and the thing was mint inside, no leaks. They're hard to find at all now, especially in that good of shape. And the prices.....good lord....

[mr_andyj]

Get gas not diesel. Back in the day diesels were a very good option, diesel was cheap and no DEF, but now diesel can be way more than gas, and the DEF laws make your cost per mile decrease. Manufacturers have to tune the engine to comply so mpg's are not as good, the DEF cycles burn a lot of extra diesel and really lower mpg's when it is cycling (burning out the exhaust), and diesels can cost more to maintain, so the benefits have narrowed quite a bit over gas. Gas engines are easy, start in the cold, are lighter etc... Not as fun driving gas as diesel when loaded down as the diesel just has so much power, mostly thanks to the turbo, but gas will get it done.
You wont have a huge air drag on the Alaskan camper since it folds down.

8 foot camper needs an 8 foot bed, if I understand what u meant by 8 foot. dont put an 8 foot camper in a 6 foot bed.
Don't over-think the motor size. A 3/4 ton truck will have the motor plenty for what you need, esp since your TC will fold down.

Regular cab, do they exist, lo? Get a king cab at least as you will appreciate the extra storage room when camping.

3/4 ton SRW will be fine but likely you will need to beef up the rear suspension with air bags or an extra leaf or something, otherwise the rear will be sagging. More modern trucks will have airbags already and do all this automatically.

Agree, no DRW off road.

Cooling will most likely be adequate, again that Alaskan folds is huge. My full size TC did not fold and I never got above 195 degrees even climbing steep mtns in the desert, but it was a turbo diesel which had a lot of air going through, if that matters...
Gas might run hotter, still I would not fear this.

As for off-roading, with a TC this is no Jeep anymore. That TC will be rockin-n-rollin back there as the tie-downs are not meant to hold it like it is bolted in. Some wiggle is always there.
Tow a Razor or motorcycle, park at the trailhead and ride the of-road vehicle to get your off-road kicks, it will be cheaper in the long run than trashing your truck.

[bwlyon]

If you are looking for anything north of 3500lbs of cargo capacity, you need a 3500 SRW gas powered truck at a minimum, which will get you right at 4000lbs.

[Bert_the_Welder]

mellow wrote:
This just popped up, article on F350 with an alaskan on it going to well duh... Alaska :B

https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/expeditions/canada/3-driving-routes-to-alaska/

Nice rig.
Bad time for that article.

[Dr_Science]

Looks like a fun trip. I did most of that route in 2011 by motorcycle. Dawson is a great town. Would like to spend a couple of weeks there.

[mellow]

This just popped up, article on F350 with an alaskan on it going to well duh... Alaska :B

https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/expeditions/canada/3-driving-routes-to-alaska/

[mellow]

One sweet alaskan setup: https://protech.net/flatbeds/camper-rv/

3500 with an alaskan 8.5 with a modular bed, looks like your type of setup.

[Dr_Science]

Thanks for the ideas. I don't think a DRW rig would do too well on the jeep trails - haven't seen them out there too much. Alaskans have a reputation for being heavy, but it's not really deserved. I compared half a dozen 6.5-foot-bed popup campers and the total weight variation for similarly equipped rigs was from 1318 (Four Wheel) to 1675 (Northstar) pounds, wet weight. That's only a 20% difference from lightest to heaviest. The Alaskan is 1570 lbs. Since then I've refocused on an 8-ft rig but the proportional differences are the same, with the weights all about 400 lbs heavier.

[Grit_dog]

Note, this is a highly debated topic, but if you’re buying used (or new I suppose) you will find 3/4 ton trucks out number 1 ton trucks by a huge margin.
Add in your want for a regular cab truck and the pickins are fairly slim in the used market compared to crew cabs or even extended cabs.
So if you find the “right” truck and it’s a 3/4 ton, know that generally the only meaningful difference is the spring capacity of the rear suspension. In other words, 3/4 tons are basically re-branded 1 tons with a lower gvw rating imposed, generally for tax, operating or license purposes, not capability. There are “options” if you get into the newer models specifically with 1 tons offering different drivetrain components or power levels but none that matter for just plopping a TC on the truck. (Except for the Ram w coils thing).

IMO do not turn down the “ right” 3/4 ton just due to rear springs.

By the same token, I would absolutely consider expanding your search to short bed ext cabs or crew cabs if the CCs aren’t too long for your perceived needs off roading.
You will have far more options to choose from and more dry/secure/useable storage with any bonus cab type truck.
On the flip side, reg cab used trucks are a financial bargain with the same general capability due to their lack of popularity.

[Grit_dog]

That’s way too many questions for one post.
Presume you’re hunting for suggestions to beef up a truck as an “overlander” type rig. Super cool!

Short answer, pick virtually any 3/4 or 1 ton srw truck in the best condition from the range in which your budget allows.
Short list of trucks NOT to buy based on your use or well known issues ( as you don’t seem like a gear head that may find value in “bulletproofed” issue vehicles).
Ram 2500 with coil springs 2014 or newer. Fine truck, not a great TC truck due to rear suspension design.
6.0 and 6.4 Ford diesels

Gas or diesel, any HD from the last 20 years or so will do what you intend to do with ease from a drivetrain standpoint. All will run at Montana speed limits with a camper in the bed. Especially a little Alaskan TC.

The rest of the specific accessories questions, I’d say get the truck and then plan out your mods. Most all will be “wants” not “needs” with a HD pickup.

Have fun with your project!

[noteven]

smarty wrote:
The issue of SRW/DRW should be determined by the weight of your camper

Alaskans weigh around 2000lbs. C of G is low. A 350/3500 with one is a beauty to drive.

You cannot access the cookery facilities with the top in go mode. I wished I had an outdoor little kitchen on my Alaskan rig. You can sleep on the dinette bed with the top down and get to the fridge.

[smarty]

The issue of SRW/DRW should be determined by the weight of your camper

[JimK-NY]

I would agree with the recommendations above. A 3500/350 would be a better choice. The cost is about the same but the 3500/350 typically has a better suspension, wheels and tires. Definitely avoid the Ram 2500 with rear coil springs.

I am a big fan of diesel engines but with a goal of off road use, I would keep the weight down and go with gas. I don't think the output of the alternator is much of an issue. High output alternators are mainly for using lots of lights such as for snow plowing at night. Few of us are foolish enough to do a lot of off road travel at night.

Are you set on an Alaskan TC? They are heavy compared with other choices.

[Tvov]

Are you sure you need to have the truck "lifted" 2 or 3 inches? Most of the new trucks seem to be really high out of the factory.

Actually, are you looking at brand new or used?