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Pulled my WH plug, is this calcium?

RoyBell
Explorer
Explorer
I winterized my camper and pulled the water heater plug last night to drain it. When I pulled it out, this rod came with it and it was covered in this white ****. I can only assume it's calcium? As the water drained out, chunks of this stuff flowed out with it.

This is a new camper and my first time pulling any WH plug. Is this normal? I have city water, but this looks like havoc from well water. I dropped it off to the dealer last night for some warranty work before storage. Is this a concern I should bring up with them? I can't imagine this stuff floating around in a water heater can be good for it? How would you even clean it out?

2015-11-11_07-31-37 by RoyBelluomini, on Flickr
34 REPLIES 34

RoyBell
Explorer
Explorer
I got my replacement Friday. Actually, they sent 2 so I have 2 replacements!

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
Doug33 wrote:
I thought I read that there are some types of water heaters that don't need anode rods at all. Am I correct??


You are correct ... Atwood water heaters don't need an anode rod nor does the manufacturer ship them with one as the tank itself is aluminum. Regardless, some Atwood owners insist on using an anode rod anyway so the aftermarket supplies it. :S
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
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2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
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Doug33
Explorer
Explorer
My previous RVs all had anode rods in their tanks. However, my current TT came with a plastic plug with no rod. I thought I read that there are some types of water heaters that don't need anode rods at all. Am I correct??
2014 Keystone Bullet 281BHS
2002 Chevy Avalanche 5.3L 4x4
Equalizer hitch
Nights spent camping in 2015: 25
Next trip: mid-April 2016?

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
Thank you for that! 🙂 It is exactly what I had in mind. Sure wish I had known about it several years ago.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
BarneyS wrote:

Seems to me they could make replacements with a some sort of hinge hinge in the middle so the new one could be put in without removing the heater. Maybe even two pieces with the middle wire core having a loop on the end and joined there.
Barney


They are available. one example

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
When I tried to remove and replace the anode rod on my home water heater, which is located in the basement of our home, I couldn't get it out because of the ceiling. I had to disconnect the whole heater from the gas and water lines, tilt it to the side, and then remove and replace the rod. A whole lot of work.

Seems to me they could make replacements with a some sort of hinge hinge in the middle so the new one could be put in without removing the heater. Maybe even two pieces with the middle wire core having a loop on the end and joined there. It is easy to bend the old one to get it out but you cant do that with the new one. Of course, if you have a ceiling that is 4 or 5 feet higher than the top of the heater you don't have a problem but my basement ceiling is only about 7.5 or 8 feet high and there was not enough clearance.

With our trailer, there is no anode rod since it is an Atwood. I just drain it, flush it with a water heater tank rinsing tool already mentioned earlier, put the plug back in, and then fill it again in the spring.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

gmw_photos
Explorer
Explorer
regarding cleaning the remains out of the tank in the RV, I vacuum it out through the anode rod hole. I have a piece of clear plastic tubing about 15" long that I duct tape to the end of the shop vac hose.....stick it in thru the hole and just keep moving it around until I get it as clean as possible.

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
I have a small electric water heater in my shop. The top cover needs to be removed, then the insulation has to come out. It was worth the effort because the anode rod was spent.

In my house, I have a GE hybrid water heater. No amount of breaker bar and man handling would break the anode rod loose. A 1/2" impact wrench did nothing, a 3/4" impact wrench did the trick.

Any future water heater installations will include a removal and re-install with teflon tape before use. That includes RV's as well.

ralph_day
Explorer
Explorer
Sometimes not so obvious on home tank. Mine was beneath a hole in the top skin, covered by a plastic plug, and foam insulated over. Just dig it out to find the anode top.

Ralph

mobeewan
Explorer
Explorer
On the home water heaters they insert through the top of the tank and are 3 to 4 feet long. You should see the hex plug of the rod at the top of the tank. Make sure you shut off the water to the tank. There should be a valve on the cold water inlet. If no valve you will need to shut off the water supply to the house. You'll also need to open the drain valve at the bottom of the tank to relieve pressure on the tank before attempting to remove the anode. You don't want any geysers inside the house. You can probably attach a garden hose on the drain valve and run it out an outside door. You don't need to completely drain the tank. Just enough to relieve the pressure and not have water pushing out the top of the tank.

RoyBell
Explorer
Explorer
mobeewan wrote:
RoyBell wrote:
I am ordering one now so I don't forget. There are two different types. One is Aluminum (Camco) and one says Magnesium (Suburban)


Read this link about anode rods especially the bottom of the page titled "Why We Don't Like Aluminum Anodes".

Aluminum would probably be okay for the short term if you really need to replace the rod until you can find a magnesium rod.


Nice find. I did purchase the magnesium rod. It should be here tomorrow.

I am going to check my home water tank now and see if that has one. I assume it does after reading that page.

greende
Explorer
Explorer
That anode rod will last at least another year. The pinched area near the plug end is normal. The center of the anode is a steel rod and it will not break and fall off under normal circumstances. On most of the rods you can see where the center rod is welded to the plug. Had one once that was practically only the steel support rod left. Good to have a spare but personally I would wait till at least next year.
2011 Chevy 3500 HD LTZ Duramax/Allison Crew Cab Long Box DRW
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2012 Keystone Cougar 293 SAB 5er

USAF 1968 - 1972 Viet Nam '71 - '72

mobeewan
Explorer
Explorer
deleted double post

mobeewan
Explorer
Explorer
RoyBell wrote:
I am ordering one now so I don't forget. There are two different types. One is Aluminum (Camco) and one says Magnesium (Suburban)


Read this link about anode rods especially the bottom of the page titled "Why We Don't Like Aluminum Anodes".

Aluminum would probably be okay for the short term if you really need to replace the rod until you can find a magnesium rod.