Replacing Suburban water heater for Atwood

[boulderado]

Does anyone know if a 6 gallon Suburban water heater can be replaced with an Atwood without too many modifications?

Thanks.

[GrandpaKip]

SoundGuy wrote:

GrandpaKip wrote:
Having had both, I can't really say which is better. They both do the job well. The plug was easier than the rod for sure, but I wouldn't change it out to save a few minutes and 10 bucks a year.

Heck, even if the existing water heater was pooched I wouldn't arbitrarily change to a different brand and as a result create all sorts of work to make the darned thing fit. Talk about a "make work" project. :R

Me, neither. I gots plenty to do without looking for more.

[SoundGuy]

GrandpaKip wrote:
Having had both, I can't really say which is better. They both do the job well. The plug was easier than the rod for sure, but I wouldn't change it out to save a few minutes and 10 bucks a year.

Heck, even if the existing water heater was pooched I wouldn't arbitrarily change to a different brand and as a result create all sorts of work to make the darned thing fit. Talk about a "make work" project. :R

[GrandpaKip]

Having had both, I can't really say which is better. They both do the job well. The plug was easier than the rod for sure, but I wouldn't change it out to save a few minutes and 10 bucks a year.

[3oaks]

I have owned TT with an Atwood water heater for ten years without a single problem. 🙂

Our new TT, now one year old, has a Suburban water heater. Only time will tell for me which is better, or just a toss up. :@

I didn't notice any difference in water heating capabilities or recovery time. Never even occurred to me.

[SoundGuy]

old guy wrote:
now this is my opinion and I have worked on both and I would take a suburban over an atwood any day. easier to work on and the parts are cheaper. the plastic plug is about the only advantage the atwood has and that is not all that much to write home about

I've owned both Suburban and Atwood water heaters and would hands down always prefer an Atwood as in my experience it's recovery time is far quicker than the equivalent sized Suburban. :B In theory the Suburban with it's porcelain lined steel tank should last longer than the Atwood with it's aluminum tank but most owners will sell their camper long before they have to worry about the tank. Anecdotally there do seem to be more stories here on the forums about Atwood tanks splitting, none that I've ever read about Suburban, but who's to know whether that's really true or not. :@ I haven't had any issues with our now 4 yr old Atwood nor do I expect to, the trick being to flush it out occasionally and properly winterize it each fall. As for the OP, no way I'd go through all the work he's planning just to avoid having to use an anode rod. :R

[old_guy]

now this is my opinion and I have worked on both and I would take a suburban over an atwood any day. easier to work on and the parts are cheaper. the plastic plug is about the only advantage the atwood has and that is not all that much to write home about

[Old-Biscuit]

Suburban 6 gallon water heater.......
12-11/16" H x 12-11/16" W x 19-3/16" D.

Atwood 6 gallon water heater........
12-6" H x 16" W x 18" D


IF 'gas' only....
Just need to make propane line connection

IF Gas AND Electric
Suburban uses 120V AC DIRECTLY to electric heat element with it's own set of 120V AC t-stats and an ON/OFF switch in outside compartment. AC fed from circuit breaker
Propane uses 12V DC to circuit board and a 12V DC set of t-stats. DC fed from FUSED circuit

Atwood uses 12V DC via circuit board to control BOTH AC element & propane system with one common set of t-stats. 12V DC fed from FUSED circuit
120V AC for electric element fed from circuit breaker but triggered by 12V DC relay


Opening in side of RV would be biggest modification to do.
Wider & shorter opening so cut/frame/bracing plus redoing exterior wall

AC/DC wiring changes but those are not big modifications
Propane ...same piping just different connections
Water lines....change hot/cold/bypass plumbing and make up connections on tank

[mikakuja]

I have done this, only the other way around, it's a pain... plumbing will have to be changed as the tank configuration is different. The diameter of the hole that the unit mounts in is also different and will require you build an adapter plate and possibly some re framing.
IMO, not worth the effort. The anode rod is inexpensive and easily obtained and replaced when it finally gets eaten away.

[_1nobby]

MFL wrote:
They are both good WHs, but too big of a job IMO, to switch from one to the other. I get a new rod every year, to 18 months, no big deal. If your rod does not last a year, you may want to consider aluminum replacement rods.

Jerry

THIS.

[MFL]

They are both good WHs, but too big of a job IMO, to switch from one to the other. I get a new rod every year, to 18 months, no big deal. If your rod does not last a year, you may want to consider aluminum replacement rods.

Jerry

[boulderado]

donn0128 wrote:
Why not simply install another Suburban?

Good question, I'd like water heater that just takes a vinyl drain plug instead of messing with the sacrificial rod required with the Suburbans.

[SoundGuy]

boulderado wrote:
Does anyone know if a 6 gallon Suburban water heater can be replaced with an Atwood without too many modifications?

Size of the hole in the side of your trailer will have to be changed to match the Atwood's different dimensions.

[donn0128]

Why not simply install another Suburban?