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RV TP

twxsby89
Explorer
Explorer
Do yall buy the special RV TP? When we picked up or TT, they told me I must use only the RV TP, but I have also been told by other veteran RVers that it is not necessary.
2013 K2500 Suburban
2016 Coachmen 310BHDSLE
2011 JKUR
2012 Wells Cargo Camp Convert
24 REPLIES 24

AmericalVette
Explorer
Explorer
twxsby89 wrote:
Do yall buy the special RV TP?



Nope... It's like Chuck Norris, won't take **** off anybody!
Times fun when you're having flies!

deltabravo
Nomad
Nomad
twxsby89 wrote:
Do yall buy the special RV TP?


No. It's overpriced and feels like copier paper.
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator

goducks10
Explorer
Explorer
Reg TP for us. Keep plenty of water in the black tank. Zero issue in 5 years with two different trailers.

Community Alumni
Not applicable
downtheroad wrote:
Before there are 12 pages of responses on this often discussed topic:

The best answer is....don't use TP at all.

My ancestors who came across this great country on the Oregon Trail in the 1860's in a cover wagon (RV) didn't use TP and they never had any holding tank problems.....


But to be fair, they had a pretty hard battle with diseases like dysentery, typhoid, cholera which TP could've helped control.

OP: You can use anything that you find will breakup. With the jar test I rock the jar back and forth vs shaking it vigorously. When you're going down the road the water in the tank moves around fairly lazily. I found that the Sam's brand Members Mark toilet paper, that I was already using in the house, broke up the best.

Don't fall into the the RV toilet paper trap. I remember seeing a test a few years back where some RV specific brands were tested. The testers found that some of the brands didn't break up at all.

B_O__Plenty
Explorer II
Explorer II
I use whatever we have. Always have. It's a holding tank not a septic system. It stays in the tanks a few days then it's gone. Who cares if it breaks down. Use lots of water and it float away..

B.O.
Former Ram/Cummins owner
2015 Silverado 3500 D/A DRW
Yup I'm a fanboy!
2016 Cedar Creek 36CKTS

Bigbird65
Explorer
Explorer
CavemanCharlie wrote:
Here is the video I always post whenever anyone has a question about RV Bathroom Tissue.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDLXXRVe2pc


Excellent video. Thanks
2017 RAM 1500 Quad Cab 5.7L Hemi, 8 speed 3.21
2018 Winnebago Minnie 2250DS

Valkyriebush
Explorer II
Explorer II
How do you identify an RV newby? The person buying RV TP at camping world!!! Septic safe will do.
Command Master Chief (AW) USN, (ret)
2003 Fleetwood Excursion 330 Turbo Cat 39D
2000 Jeep GC
2005 Big Ruckus (Rides Behind Jeep)
2003 VTX 1800

CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Explorer III
Here is the video I always post whenever anyone has a question about RV Bathroom Tissue.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDLXXRVe2pc

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
twxsby89 wrote:
Do yall buy the special RV TP? When we picked up or TT, they told me I must use only the RV TP, but I have also been told by other veteran RVers that it is not necessary.


Pretty much a well beaten dead horse.

You CAN use any brand you wish as long as it is "septic safe", what that means is the TP will breakdown easily in water instead of staying in a sheet form.

More importantly is PROPERLY FLUSHING.

Even if you use the specialty RV 1ply stuff there is no guaranty of no problems if you fail to use ENOUGH WATER.

RV toilets are designed to flush with the most absolute minimum of water.. That lack of water is where problems start.

You need to make sure you use enough water to get the TP down the bowl and PAST the "blades" at the bottom of the bowl BEFORE you close the blades (you don't want TP get caught in the blades)..

But even more important is to allow some extra water to run into the tank to help break up the "lump".. Failure to do this WILL result in the dreaded "pyramid"..

Make sure you have the black tank drain valve CLOSED.

You NEED the tank to fill up and if you leave the tank drain open you will allow all the liquid (which is NEEDED to empty the tank of solids) to drain out. That will leave the solids behind and they will eventually turn into one big lump..

Only when the tank NEEDS emptied do you want to open the black tank drain.

Here is how I go about it..

I carry disposable rubber gloves when dealing with the dumping process, just makes for a bit easier to ensure my health will not be compromised.

Camping a week at a time I will only need to empty my black tank before I leave the campground..

1) I will add water to the black tank until it is about half full.

2) I will then add water to the grey tank (close grey tank valve if open), half to 3/4.

3) Making sure I have drain hose FIRMLY or WELL connected to a sewer line (you may wish to put a weight on the drain hose at the sewer connection to make SURE the hose end does not get loose!).

4) Once drain hose is taken care of I will open the black tank drain valve. Allow contents to drain (may take a while).

5) Close valve once I do not hear any movement.

6) I will then pick up the hose at the valve (still connected) and work my way to the sewer connection. This helps to move and clear any solids that may have stopped in the hose.

7) Then I will open the black valve and wait to see if any more liquid enters the hose. Repeat steps 5-7 once or twice.

๐Ÿ˜Ž making sure black tank valve is closed I will then open the grey tank valve. Allow to drain until no more movement is heard and close drain valve.

9) pick up drain hose like step 6.

10) when all liquid has drained close the grey tank and make sure black tank valve is closed and remove the hose (being careful to not allow tank end to drop to ground in case of any leftover contents).

11) Now I will raise the tank end and gather the hose into the air a bit towards the sewer connection (this allows you to drain any leftover liquid into the sewer).

12) once cleared of any liquid I will take some fresh water and dump into the drain hose (typically I am able to hold the tank end of the hose WELL UNDER a campground faucet and allow the water to fall into the drain hose, under no circumstances should you allow the drain hose touch a potable (drinking water) faucet).

13) Empty drain hose into the sewer then gather up my hose and put it into my storage container.. I have a storage bin which is specifically marked for storing the drain hose.

TucsonJim
Explorer II
Explorer II
Now that you've got some serious answers, here's my solution:


It now comes in a 12V version!

Seriously, have a great trip and welcome to the forum.

Jim
2016 Ford F350 Turbo Diesel SRW 4x4
2017 Grand Design Reflection 297RSTS
2013 Ford F350 Turbo Diesel SRW 4x4 (Destroyed by fire - 8/29/16)
2014 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS (Destroyed by fire - 8/29/16)

lanerd
Explorer II
Explorer II
Nope, we'all don't.

Ron
Ron & Sandie
2013 Tiffin Phaeton 42LH Cummins ISL 400hp
Toad: 2011 GMC Terrain SLT2
Tow Bar: Sterling AT
Toad Brakes: Unified by U.S. Gear
TPMS: Pressure Pro
Member of: GS, FMCA, Allegro


RETIRED!! How sweet it is....

DutchmenSport
Explorer
Explorer
Pick up any kind of toilet paper you want. Anything that you use in the house you can use in an RV. If you have a septic tank in your house you can use the same toilet paper in your RV. If you purchase anything with the name RV on it you are just wasting your money. You can purchase any item somewhere else for a lot less.

MNGeeks61
Explorer
Explorer
I use whatever passes the following test. That's quite a few brands of TP.

Take a cup of water. Cold of course. Put several pieces of the TP in the water, shake it around a bit for a minute. If it dissolves, I use it in the RV (or park model). Doesn't matter how much it dissolves.

Anything that doesn't dissolve, even after hours, I'd be hesitant to use.

YMMV.

wrenchbender
Explorer
Explorer
I just use Costco septic safe TP has worked great for the last 40 yrs