Sierra 3500 Duramax towing

[TVDOC]

New to this forum and looking for group wisdom.

Considering purchase of '18 3500 Duramax in a Denali pkg. The dealer cant tell me if the IBC will control my Titan EOH disk brakes on the trailer.

Also, he cant tell me if the tow package includes the under-bed rail kit so I can move my Pull-Rite slider (from my '12 RAM). Fianlly,

I read on another forum that the Sierra is smooth without a load but once you get a trailer attached you really feel every shift point in the Allison xmission.

Anyone towing with this truck yet? What your experience been?

[gmw_photos]

Yes sir, real weights do make it easier and better to get a good setup.

And I hear you on all the comments we see from trickle down tow vehicles....the one ton dually guys laugh at the 1/2 ton owners.

As one who tows with three different trucks, I sometimes find it amusing. I would in no way hook up my equipment trailer with the bobcat on it, or the four horse GN, to my Frontier.

But on the other hand, to get the F350 dually out to pull this little 19' funfinder is a bit of overkill.

[Lantley]

@gmw photos My comments were not directed at anyone in particular. I was just pointing out we all think we are fine because we have nothing else to compare to. 98% of us have electric magnetic brakes that we think are fine, however magnetic brakes are really inferior to disc brakes. A quick test drive comparison between the 2 would be eye opening for many.

Those with 1/2 tons claim there fine until they tow with a 3/4 ton.
3/4 ton guys need to bump up to one tons and there are always SRW guys believing everything is wonderful until the try a dually.
Of course these scenarios are not 100% accurate, but the I'm fine claim is generally based on it's the only truck I have used to tow this trailer.
Many are on the edge believing it's as good as it gets because they have never tried the next truck size up.
You bring up good point on GVW. Yes there is the 10K GVW designation for taxing and registration reasons that confuses the issue. But everyone should weigh their combos and have accurate CAT scale weights vs. guesstimate weights. It's a lot easier to match up and dial in a combo when using real weights vs. any other method.

[gmw_photos]

Lantley wrote:
....snip....

Its easy to make those claims towing beyond your limits because you have nothing to compare to.
Tow your same rig with a combo that is within ALL of its parameters and I imagine you'll notice the difference.
I used to think the electric/magnetic brakes were fine on my 5'er until I installed disc brakes;)

I can't really tell from your reply who you are referring to, but if it's me, one of my tow vehicles is a F350 diesel dually.

Wait until somebody here on the forum states what the magical payload number is on a specifically equipped 2018 3500HD Chevy.

You can end up with a payload number that is going to be artificially low at less than 3000 pounds, because a "no charge" option on the SRW is a 10,000 pound GVWR. The pay-low/po-po are gonna go nuts and tell the chap, "you need a bigger truck".

The problem in my mind is many folks who are zoned in on payload as a magical number is, that as soon as they see that number, all thought process stops, and they revert to their standard reply: you need a bigger truck or smaller trailer.

There is more to the story of GVWR and therefore payload. But some folks can't get beyond a number typed on a sticker stuck to the door jamb.

BTW, I use three different trucks to pull my four different trailers. I have a stack of CAT scale tickets that show all my towing is within the axle and tire limits and almost always within the "payload" limit. My F350 has over 4800 pound of "payload" written on it's sticker.

[Lantley]

gmw photos wrote:

ksss wrote:
....snip....

Pulls like a freight train, I have been running at or above max GVW and it pulls and stops very well. .

uh oh, better not admit that around here.

Its easy to make those claims towing beyond your limits because you have nothing to compare to.
Tow your same rig with a combo that is within ALL of its parameters and I imagine you'll notice the difference.
I used to think the electric/magnetic brakes were fine on my 5'er until I installed disc brakes;)

[gmw_photos]

ksss wrote:
....snip....

Pulls like a freight train, I have been running at or above max GVW and it pulls and stops very well. .

uh oh, better not admit that around here.

[ksss]

I used my business choice money to put the GM (Curt) gooseneck ball in the bed. I use a Curt adaptor that goes down the hole where the ball goes and gives you RV rails to use your fifth wheel hitch in my case Curt Q20 hitch. If you don't need a gooseneck hitch maybe this isn't attractive, but what is nice about it is I don't have bed rails in the bed. When I am not pulling anything I can turn the ball over and it is flush with the bottom of the bed.

As to the 2018 Dmax and pulling. Pulls like a freight train, I have been running at or above max GVW and it pulls and stops very well. I am very pleased with it. It is much improved over the 2015 I traded in.

[LIKE2BUILD]

Michelle.S wrote:
In regards to the IBC, the new Trucks DO NOT need the interface adapter/resistor the older trucks did. The new ones can detect the resistance and adjust for either standard electric drum brakes or electric over Hydraulic Disc.
I just removed the interface unit from our 5er since we no longer need it with the new truck.

I can't speak for GM, but my '14 Ram 2500 has options in the trailer brake setup for Electric Over Hydraulic. All the OEM's seem to follow each other's leads so I'd find it tough to think GM would over look the need for EOH control in the IBC.

Yes, by all means get the Z6A trailering package but I doubt your Pullrite will fit directly into the factory pucks. I installed the OEM kit in my RAM and would highly recommend this option to anyone wanting to tow a 5th wheel or gooseneck. The setups are really slick and allows the bed to stay completely clean while putting the 5th wheel hitch directly on the frame rails.

You can probably get a picture frame adapter for the OEM kit that will give you generic 5th wheel rails. If your Pullrite will mate up to to generic rails this is probably your cheapest option. This Demo RV 5th wheel rail adapter seems to be the only option offered on the Etrailer.com web site.

KJ

[Michelle_S]

In regards to the IBC, the new Trucks DO NOT need the interface adapter/resistor the older trucks did. The new ones can detect the resistance and adjust for either standard electric drum brakes or electric over Hydraulic Disc.
I just removed the interface unit from our 5er since we no longer need it with the new truck.

[Litch]

Deleted

[TVDOC]

Thanks for the replies. Good to hear from some others who have pulled the trigger on this truck. I've heard that an old brake-magnet or resistor is necessary. I'll have to get the details on what value and wattage resistor to use and where it connects in the circuit. Anyone have any of that info by chance? I have a P3 (from my RAM) that I can always use as a backup if I cant figure out the resistor thing.

With the price of the truck, I dont want to change hitches yet. Someday I may change to an Andersen ball hitch for my 5er but the PullRite still works for the time being. I have a delivery date of early April and a 5000 mile trip planned for the end of April. Gives me time to get the hitch and brake stuff taken care of but I guess it'll be slow going the first 2 days of the trip.

[Community Alumni]

grizz272 wrote:
I am waiting for my 2018. It will not be here until March. How far do you have to go before you tow? Keep me posted on how yours is working. Did I read yours build sheet right? You deleted the pickup box and rear bumper?

This is right from the owner's manual:

. Do not tow a trailer during the first 800 km (500 mi) to prevent damage to the engine, axle, or other parts.
. Then during the first 800 km (500 mi) of trailer towing, do not drive over 80 km/h (50 mph) and do not make starts at full throttle.

I've warned DW that the first day towing is going to be looooong!

Those specs are saying that the option isn't available on those items: "Not available with..." then a list of stuff you can't get with the package. It's not worded that well, that's for sure.

[grizz272]

I am waiting for my 2018. It will not be here until March. How far do you have to go before you tow? Keep me posted on how yours is working. Did I read yours build sheet right? You deleted the pickup box and rear bumper?

[Community Alumni]

I took delivery of a 2018 3500 Denali last Friday. The package you want is this:

Z6A

GOOSENECK / 5TH WHEEL PREP PACKAGE -- HITCH PLATFORM
TO ACCEPT GOOSENECK OR FIFTH WHEEL HITCH. Includes Hitch
platform with tray to accept ball and drilled box holes with caps installed,
box mounted 7-pin trailer harness (similar to (UY2) harness). (Requires
model T*35**3, (Z82) trailering equipment, (CGN) spray-on bedliner and
trailering mirrors (DF2), (DPN) or (DQS) . Not available with (UY2)
Trailering wiring provisions, (ZW9) pickup box delete, (9J4) rear bumper
delete, (VBR) rubber bed mat, LPO, (PDH) Interior Interior Protection Package,
(VBN) bed rug, LPO or any ship thru code.)

I haven't towed with it yet (I'm only up to 500 kms so still doing the non-towing break-in) but I did drop a new B&W Companion into the bed. It's a nice setup.

The ride is sweet, much nicer than the 2011 F-350 SRW. Hopefully the same holds true when towing.

[Dayle1]

TVDOC wrote:

Considering purchase of '18 3500 Duramax in a Denali pkg. The dealer cant tell me if the IBC will control my Titan EOH disk brakes on the trailer.

The IBC controls my Titan pump just fine, but you need an optional resistor or a spare electromagnet to fool the IBC self test.