Stableloads installation problem

[mnih]

You folks have given me some great advice, hoping for more. Been trying to get 4 lower stableloads installed in a 2019 F350. Am in an established auto shop in Arizona, they ordered from Torklift. Today, went in for the install. Turns out my truck doesn’t have the holes on the springs. They upped the labor charge to $724 to drill, now they’re saying they can’t drill the springs and have to take the springs to a drill press. I’m losing confidence, might be able to walk away. Left a message with Torklift, no response. What do you think?

[Reality_Check]

mkirsch wrote:
How would a mag drill help?

Springs are curved, only about 3" wide, and usually have some sort of clamp within a few inches of the end. There is no place for the mag drill to "mag." Mag drills need a surface at least the same size as their base, and generally pretty thick, to work well.

I thought it worked really easy....

Seriously, they don't need that much to grab onto. Even 3/8" works and the bases are pretty small. They do not have to have the same surface to match up; one just can't use the same force drilling if the metal is thinner. When I've had problems fitting one, I have clamped on a piece of plate at the correct angle. It's really not hard to work around and with.

My remark was in reference to a 'shop', where we (they) are paid to know how to work with and around little problems.

[Bedlam]

You can order parts and service from Torklift Central in Kent, WA. https://torkliftcentral.com/ That is the retail side of Torklift International who builds the products in Sumner, WA. If you are a do-it-yourself person, typically you can find the Torklift parts online for less than local retail if they are small. I bought my GlowGuide, StableLoads and FastGuns online but things like GlowSteps, SuperHitch and SuperTruss were less expensive for me when purchased locally due to shipping - This might be different for others that live farther away from the manufacturing location.

[deltabravo]

mnih wrote:
I also would have ordered directly from Torklift instead of having the dealer do it,

Torklift doesn't sell direct to consumers, they only sell through their distribution network, to dealers.
Maybe they make minor exceptions to that rule, but that hasn't been the case when I needed a product from them.

[deltabravo]

Does Torklift not make a set of the new style Stableloads for Ford trucks, which can be engaged or disengaged?
That's the style of have on my Silverado. I don't recall them needing a hole in the spring to mount them like the earlier style I have did.

[mkirsch]

How would a mag drill help?

Springs are curved, only about 3" wide, and usually have some sort of clamp within a few inches of the end. There is no place for the mag drill to "mag." Mag drills need a surface at least the same size as their base, and generally pretty thick, to work well.

[Reality_Check]

I find it curious and weird that a 'well established shop' doesn't have a mag drill. Drilling up as opposed to down is the same, other than one has to look up.

I understand why TL sells the kit's with the bits and even loans out a system for drilling them with a std drill for home owners,etc. But a shop????

Mag drill. Easy peasy.

[lap527]

mnih, that is the exact reason why all of our stuff on our truck and TC is torklift. You just can't beat their customer service!

[mnih]

Promised an update, here goes: called Torklift, within 30 seconds they were taking down the address of the shop to overnight the bits to. All hail Torklift.

Hopefully that does it. I’ll chalk up the rest of the expense and aggravation to experience. If I had to do it again I would have tried to find a spring shop to do the work. I also would have ordered directly from Torklift instead of having the dealer do it, checking beforehand to see if my overloads had the pre-drilled holes. Let the youth of tomorrow profit from my errors!

[Oregun]

I only got 2 bits with my lower kit. But they were sharp. Once I got the holes started I used a floor jack to keep the drill pressed hard against the spring so I didn't have to lay under the hole while it was being cut. The metal came off in foot long ribbons.

[Kayteg1]

You are not stuck with them unless you agree on it.
Whole US has the same laws regarding contracts and states can add only small print to it.
Negotiating is never easy task, but if the shop gave you firm estimate on the job and finds later it takes longer, it is their problem to eat.
On complicated jobs, smart shop owner will not make estimate before inspection and they can charge you inspection cost, but that is all they can before you agree on more.
Not sure if that applies to automotive contracts, but construction law in CA doesn't allow down-payment bigger than 10%.
Anybody taking more can loose his licence very fast.

[mnih]

Rustofer wrote:
My set of lowers came with 4 drill bits last year - they were hard and sharp - sharpened at a very steep angle. I used my cordless drill, with the springs still on the truck in my driveway. Also used a couple blocks of wood - fulcrum and lever - to add more push to the drill. Cut through the leafs very well, though I did chip 3 of the bits on the final break-through. 2017 F-350.

Thanks, Rustofer - in my newbie ignorance I had the shop order the Stable Loads and paid them with my deposit, so I’m relying on them when they say there was “a” drill bit on the invoice but not in the package.

As the shop already has a large down payment I seem to be stuck with them, unless I get a lawyer involved, which could well end up even more messy and expensive. The shop itself is old and well established, with a good reputation, and dealing with them has been pleasant. I suspect they’re basically honorable and care about their reputation but had no idea what they were getting into once they saw the springs had no holes. They say they’re looking for a solution and will call me tomorrow - I’ll update once they do.

Thanks again

[Rustofer]

My set of lowers came with 4 drill bits last year - they were hard and sharp - sharpened at a very steep angle. I used my cordless drill, with the springs still on the truck in my driveway. Also used a couple blocks of wood - fulcrum and lever - to add more push to the drill. Cut through the leafs very well, though I did chip 3 of the bits on the final break-through. 2017 F-350.

[Ski_Pro_3]

mnih wrote:

Ski Pro 3 wrote:
Not sure about where you live, but in California, it is illegal to up the price after a quote is given. This is through the BAR, Bureau of Automotive Repair.
If they want to over charge you after the fact, then they can refund your money on the material.
I would take my refund and run from that crooked place. Over $700 to drill 4 holes?! That is a crime! I drilled my RAM leafs out by hand using a batter operated drill without problem. They provided 4 drill bits for the 4 holes and I only needed one to do all 4 holes.
Here's a tip when drilling; I used a horseshoe magnet around the hole I was drilling. Almost all the shavings stuck to the magnet instead of falling down on top of me. The shavings can be hot, so wear full protection. I used a clear full face shield I wear when using my grinder and buttoned my shirt up to the collar.

Many thanks. Interesting, that California law. I’m in Arizona, anyone know if there’s a law against upping the price? A quick google search turned up nothing useful but I’ll keep looking.

I have a correction;
In my case I had a motorcycle that needed repairs. I took it in to a repair shop and got a quote. When they tore into the motor, they discovered more damage than originally thought. They wanted more money. THAT was legal I think. However, I have the right to turn down the work and cancel any agreement on the quote. And they have to restore the vehicle back to the condition it was in when I dropped it off. In this case, the motorcycle was running, I drove it in. The damage was so bad, in this case the cam shaft was nearly worn in two, that the engine could not be reassembled and made to run. Heck, just gaskets and labor alone would really cost the shop and not me at all. In the end, they honored that quoted price and while I'm sure they didn't loose money, they didn't make as much profit as they might have.
The reason quotes for repair are so high is for hidden damage that would disallow them to return the vehicle back to the condition it was in when it arrived; running.
Hope this makes sense....

In your situation, I would guess you have the right to turn down all the work, including a refund of parts they bought to perform the job if they changed the amount after the fact due to their own miscalculation of how much labor would be involved.

[mnih]

Ski Pro 3 wrote:
Not sure about where you live, but in California, it is illegal to up the price after a quote is given. This is through the BAR, Bureau of Automotive Repair.
If they want to over charge you after the fact, then they can refund your money on the material.
I would take my refund and run from that crooked place. Over $700 to drill 4 holes?! That is a crime! I drilled my RAM leafs out by hand using a batter operated drill without problem. They provided 4 drill bits for the 4 holes and I only needed one to do all 4 holes.
Here's a tip when drilling; I used a horseshoe magnet around the hole I was drilling. Almost all the shavings stuck to the magnet instead of falling down on top of me. The shavings can be hot, so wear full protection. I used a clear full face shield I wear when using my grinder and buttoned my shirt up to the collar.

Many thanks. Interesting, that California law. I’m in Arizona, anyone know if there’s a law against upping the price? A quick google search turned up nothing useful but I’ll keep looking.