Stop the shaking!

[Godspeedme]

We have a coachman Catalina 303fqb, I think it's about 33'. I like to think we are very good with leveling, dropping the stabilizer jacks, etc. But I still feel every movement my kids make in the bunkhouse in the morning when they wake up. They are early risers, seriously like 5-6am. It seems no matter if they are even quietly playing a board game or anything more than reading a book I feel every movement and wake up. I do ask them to only read until 7:30.

Does anyone have any suggestions for making the TT more stable? Have you tried any of the after market products and do they work?

We go camping with 5 kids regularly and I'm going to lose it at some point.

[LarryJM]

JIMNLIN wrote:

Well right there is IMO your WHOLE PROBLEM ... one we are not talking about "Scissors Jacks" which your above post is referring to so all your discussion is not germane to our posts and are only confusing the issue. Just so we are absolutely clear here below is a pic of what we are talking about and what the link Lawrosa provided in his first post in this thread clearly showed which now appears you failed to look at. Some call them "screw-jack stands" or "aluminum jackstands/staking jackstands" etc.

Yep...your correct and my bad.
I was thinking aluminum jack stands and said scissor jacks. I'm currently participating in another web thread about scissor jacks/screw jack and bal type stabilizer system for a large LEQ unit.
However as I mentioned in my reply above the aluminum screw jack stands never did become stable at any point regardless of weight.
Your system simply didn't work for my unit.

Your assumption of what I did or didn't read is not correct either.

Well it's really hard to tell from your confusing which stands/supports are what and I'm 100% sure that there is no way to get the support that is needed to properly use these aluminum Jack stands by tightening them by hand. I tried and even used a short 2' pipe on that 6" tighening bar on the screw and could not get the upward lift/pressure to make them effective so you as I previously stated did something different than what Lawrosa and I have described so it does not surprise me that your attempt to effectively use these failed. Also I don't remember you specifying exactly where you put these al. jack stands in your failed attempt to use them and this is also a critical part since the further away from the axles the more leverage from the frame you can put in the side to side forces so this is another unknown potential problem in your attempt to use these jackstand in the most effective manner.


Larry

[captnjack]

LarryJM wrote:

lawrosa wrote:

I agree about the video. It is intended for seasonal campers. For anyone else it's absurd. No one (I hope) is going to carry 30 or so cinder blocks around with them. Not to mention numerous 2x2 ft plywood and styrofoam sheets.
The OP appears to go on numerous shorter trips each year. They may be candidates for the more expensive installed systems (assuming they work). Some things are just worth paying for.

Wow really all??? The vid was to show the points to set the jacks is all. I use those jacks I show from walmart. My trailer is low. I put wood or pad under jacks..

Very easy if you read a stop criticizing what it is..

1.Lower tongue all the way down..
2. put jacks near rear axle as shown. When I put them there I make sure jack is on my 8x8 block and jack touching frame.
3. Jack tongue up. Trailer back end will be supported buy jacks. Raise tongue up past level on front. A lot of the rear of trailer will be on rear jacks. Remember to keep near the rear axle. Dont put way out in rear of TT.
5. Now doe the same for front. Lower tongue onto front jacks and just take a bit off the shoe.. I put front jacks near front of TT as I only have a 24 ft...


As I said for longer trailers use two in middle. The vid was only to show procedure not that you need cinderblocks... Duh... really?

Use the jack with an 8x8 piece of wood or those levelers... The little part at the top of jack goes right to frame..


Geez Ill take pics next time in a few weeks cause there aint no good info regarding this...

Ill tell you no bounce, wiggle, play, sway at all. period..

Yes its like chocking a seasonal but doing it quickly....

It is absolutely amazing the off the wall comments that video you posted have generated and just shows how little folks take the time to understand what is trying to be conveyed. I had no problem at all understanding what the video you linked to was for ... it was about the process and location of the supports and NOT WHAT THE SUPPORTS ARE.

Larry

OK, I admit it. I read through too fast. I get the point.

Please forgive me.

[JIMNLIN]

Well right there is IMO your WHOLE PROBLEM ... one we are not talking about "Scissors Jacks" which your above post is referring to so all your discussion is not germane to our posts and are only confusing the issue. Just so we are absolutely clear here below is a pic of what we are talking about and what the link Lawrosa provided in his first post in this thread clearly showed which now appears you failed to look at. Some call them "screw-jack stands" or "aluminum jackstands/staking jackstands" etc.

Yep...your correct and my bad.
I was thinking aluminum jack stands and said scissor jacks. I'm currently participating in another web thread about scissor jacks/screw jack and bal type stabilizer system for a large LEQ unit.
However as I mentioned in my reply above the aluminum screw jack stands never did become stable at any point regardless of weight.
Your system simply didn't work for my unit.

Your assumption of what I did or didn't read is not correct either.

[jerem0621]

LarryJM wrote:

JIMNLIN wrote:

Well two of us in this thread alone (Lawrosa and I) and IIRC at least one other report the same level of stability with you being the only one AFAIK that wasn't able to achieve the same results so I'm incline to believe you did something different that what we have done and are recommending here. What amounts of wt did you put on the screw jacks and how did you determine that wt?? I reported what levels I found to be required and can't remember you ever reporting what wts. you found not sufficient or not satisfactory so can you give me a link to the post here where you reported that level of detail since I think I would have definitely commented on it and you are the first AKAIK besides me that have ever even measured these forces so I'm very interested on how you determined these and the details of that experiment.

Larry

Supply you with a link ?? Now that is funny. You know there is no link.
My finding were by trial and error. Just like others have.
Just snug the jacks and turn the crank on the jacks screws a half turn at a time and check the results. At some point the trailer began raise on the suspension and the scissor jack thread became to hard to turn. The 4 jacks never did become steady. These scissor jack were for stabilizing.

Lots of folks report the same thing I found with their scissor jacks on this and other trailering websites so I'm not the only RVer who finds the scissor jacks not up to the job.

The OP can find/buy/barrow a set of scales and try using your weights. If it works for him he's good to go. If it doesn't he can try ideas other offer.

Much depends on how much movement each of us finds acceptable. I have Meniere's disease and require zero movement. My units have to be rock solid. Others don't use any jacks and RV movement/wiggle is fine with them.

Well right there is IMO your WHOLE PROBLEM ... one we are not talking about "Scissors Jacks" which your above post is referring to so all your discussion is not germane to our posts and are only confusing the issue. Just so we are absolutely clear here below is a pic of what we are talking about and what the link Lawrosa provided in his first post in this thread clearly showed which now appears you failed to look at. Some call them "screw-jack stands" or "aluminum jackstands/staking jackstands" etc.



These are "NOT SCISSOR JACKS" or any of the other typical stabilizing jacks found as OEM items found on most trailers today. The jack stands Lawrosa and I are talking about have no moving parts except for the screw portion and more importantly no pivot points. The biggest disadvantage is you do have a somewhat limited range for height adjustment for the run of the mill cheaper versions, but taller ones are available at an increased cost or you can use blocks or something to raise the base just like many recommend with the normal stabilizing jacks so you don't have them over extended.

Also, a critical part to their successful use is proper placement which is "NOT AT THE CORNERS OR NEAR THE FRONT/BACK" of the trailer frame along with using the tongue jack to get the necessary pressure on each stand to be effective. This is sort of a "package deal" and if one leaves out just one item you will not get the results that Lawrosa and I have seen.

Larry

I didn't have any type of scissor jacks on my last TT. I only had these aluminum screw jack stands like in the pic you posted. Along with a cheap X-chock clone I had it made in the shade. No shaking or movement. We did know, almost immediately if one of the jacks had shifted...because the trailer would start moving around again.

Our PUP has BAL jacks now and the trailer moves around...now, I'm thinking about getting some more of these jack stands again.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[TOOBOLD]

Glad I'm not the only one. We rock enough it makes me nautious. Don't have the money for the JT' 's.

[LarryJM]

JIMNLIN wrote:

Well two of us in this thread alone (Lawrosa and I) and IIRC at least one other report the same level of stability with you being the only one AFAIK that wasn't able to achieve the same results so I'm incline to believe you did something different that what we have done and are recommending here. What amounts of wt did you put on the screw jacks and how did you determine that wt?? I reported what levels I found to be required and can't remember you ever reporting what wts. you found not sufficient or not satisfactory so can you give me a link to the post here where you reported that level of detail since I think I would have definitely commented on it and you are the first AKAIK besides me that have ever even measured these forces so I'm very interested on how you determined these and the details of that experiment.

Larry

Supply you with a link ?? Now that is funny. You know there is no link.
My finding were by trial and error. Just like others have.
Just snug the jacks and turn the crank on the jacks screws a half turn at a time and check the results. At some point the trailer began raise on the suspension and the scissor jack thread became to hard to turn. The 4 jacks never did become steady. These scissor jack were for stabilizing.

Lots of folks report the same thing I found with their scissor jacks on this and other trailering websites so I'm not the only RVer who finds the scissor jacks not up to the job.

The OP can find/buy/barrow a set of scales and try using your weights. If it works for him he's good to go. If it doesn't he can try ideas other offer.

Much depends on how much movement each of us finds acceptable. I have Meniere's disease and require zero movement. My units have to be rock solid. Others don't use any jacks and RV movement/wiggle is fine with them.

Well right there is IMO your WHOLE PROBLEM ... one we are not talking about "Scissors Jacks" which your above post is referring to so all your discussion is not germane to our posts and are only confusing the issue. Just so we are absolutely clear here below is a pic of what we are talking about and what the link Lawrosa provided in his first post in this thread clearly showed which now appears you failed to look at. Some call them "screw-jack stands" or "aluminum jackstands/staking jackstands" etc.



These are "NOT SCISSOR JACKS" or any of the other typical stabilizing jacks found as OEM items found on most trailers today. The jack stands Lawrosa and I are talking about have no moving parts except for the screw portion and more importantly no pivot points. The biggest disadvantage is you do have a somewhat limited range for height adjustment for the run of the mill cheaper versions, but taller ones are available at an increased cost or you can use blocks or something to raise the base just like many recommend with the normal stabilizing jacks so you don't have them over extended.

Also, a critical part to their successful use is proper placement which is "NOT AT THE CORNERS OR NEAR THE FRONT/BACK" of the trailer frame along with using the tongue jack to get the necessary pressure on each stand to be effective. This is sort of a "package deal" and if one leaves out just one item you will not get the results that Lawrosa and I have seen.

Larry

[JIMNLIN]

Well two of us in this thread alone (Lawrosa and I) and IIRC at least one other report the same level of stability with you being the only one AFAIK that wasn't able to achieve the same results so I'm incline to believe you did something different that what we have done and are recommending here. What amounts of wt did you put on the screw jacks and how did you determine that wt?? I reported what levels I found to be required and can't remember you ever reporting what wts. you found not sufficient or not satisfactory so can you give me a link to the post here where you reported that level of detail since I think I would have definitely commented on it and you are the first AKAIK besides me that have ever even measured these forces so I'm very interested on how you determined these and the details of that experiment.

Larry

Supply you with a link ?? Now that is funny. You know there is no link.
My finding were by trial and error. Just like others have.
Just snug the jacks and turn the crank on the jacks screws a half turn at a time and check the results. At some point the trailer began raise on the suspension and the scissor jack thread became to hard to turn. The 4 jacks never did become steady. These scissor jack were for stabilizing.

Lots of folks report the same thing I found with their scissor jacks on this and other trailering websites so I'm not the only RVer who finds the scissor jacks not up to the job.

The OP can find/buy/barrow a set of scales and try using your weights. If it works for him he's good to go. If it doesn't he can try ideas other offer.

Much depends on how much movement each of us finds acceptable. I have Meniere's disease and require zero movement. My units have to be rock solid. Others don't use any jacks and RV movement/wiggle is fine with them.

[jerem0621]

Let the kids stay up later.

[Terryallan]

Bucky Badger wrote:

Terryallan wrote:

djgarcia wrote:

Godspeedme wrote:
I don't know what xchocks are but I will be looking into all the suggestions and links:)

Right now we use the 4 standard jacks with home made wood blocks made out of 2x4s.

You can buy Xchocks(just a brand name) from any Camping world store for around $50

You can get the same thing at Northern Tool for $25 a pair

No, 40 a pair
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200442243_200442243

Well I did get mine during one of their mail out sales over a year ago. At any rate. They are a good deal, and work well.

[LarryJM]

lawrosa wrote:

I agree about the video. It is intended for seasonal campers. For anyone else it's absurd. No one (I hope) is going to carry 30 or so cinder blocks around with them. Not to mention numerous 2x2 ft plywood and styrofoam sheets.
The OP appears to go on numerous shorter trips each year. They may be candidates for the more expensive installed systems (assuming they work). Some things are just worth paying for.

Wow really all??? The vid was to show the points to set the jacks is all. I use those jacks I show from walmart. My trailer is low. I put wood or pad under jacks..

Very easy if you read a stop criticizing what it is..

1.Lower tongue all the way down..
2. put jacks near rear axle as shown. When I put them there I make sure jack is on my 8x8 block and jack touching frame.
3. Jack tongue up. Trailer back end will be supported buy jacks. Raise tongue up past level on front. A lot of the rear of trailer will be on rear jacks. Remember to keep near the rear axle. Dont put way out in rear of TT.
5. Now doe the same for front. Lower tongue onto front jacks and just take a bit off the shoe.. I put front jacks near front of TT as I only have a 24 ft...


As I said for longer trailers use two in middle. The vid was only to show procedure not that you need cinderblocks... Duh... really?

Use the jack with an 8x8 piece of wood or those levelers... The little part at the top of jack goes right to frame..


Geez Ill take pics next time in a few weeks cause there aint no good info regarding this...

Ill tell you no bounce, wiggle, play, sway at all. period..

Yes its like chocking a seasonal but doing it quickly....

It is absolutely amazing the off the wall comments that video you posted have generated and just shows how little folks take the time to understand what is trying to be conveyed. I had no problem at all understanding what the video you linked to was for ... it was about the process and location of the supports and NOT WHAT THE SUPPORTS ARE.

Larry

[lawrosa]

I agree about the video. It is intended for seasonal campers. For anyone else it's absurd. No one (I hope) is going to carry 30 or so cinder blocks around with them. Not to mention numerous 2x2 ft plywood and styrofoam sheets.
The OP appears to go on numerous shorter trips each year. They may be candidates for the more expensive installed systems (assuming they work). Some things are just worth paying for.

Wow really all??? The vid was to show the points to set the jacks is all. I use those jacks I show from walmart. My trailer is low. I put wood or pad under jacks..

Very easy if you read a stop criticizing what it is..

1.Lower tongue all the way down..
2. put jacks near rear axle as shown. When I put them there I make sure jack is on my 8x8 block and jack touching frame.
3. Jack tongue up. Trailer back end will be supported buy jacks. Raise tongue up past level on front. A lot of the rear of trailer will be on rear jacks. Remember to keep near the rear axle. Dont put way out in rear of TT.
5. Now doe the same for front. Lower tongue onto front jacks and just take a bit off the shoe.. I put front jacks near front of TT as I only have a 24 ft...


As I said for longer trailers use two in middle. The vid was only to show procedure not that you need cinderblocks... Duh... really?

Use the jack with an 8x8 piece of wood or those levelers... The little part at the top of jack goes right to frame..


Geez Ill take pics next time in a few weeks cause there aint no good info regarding this...

Ill tell you no bounce, wiggle, play, sway at all. period..

Yes its like chocking a seasonal but doing it quickly....

[Godspeedme]

Yes, we store our TT about 2 hours from home and usually camp within a 30 mile radius of where it is stored. So each time is a new setup.

I am thinking those JT Strongarm stabilizers may be worth the money. I might start with just trying the xchocks and seeing if that does enough.

[captnjack]

myredracer wrote:
That video is ridiculous. Dig under wheel to level TT? Pack around a ton of cinder blocks and plywood squares? Place styrofoam on the ground first?

There is 3 dimensional movement involved in what occupants feel from inside. Fore/aft, vertical and lateral (side/side). There can be compound movement in more than one direction simultaneously similar to roll, pitch and yaw in a plane.

First line of attack is the fore/aft and X-chocks between the tires works very well. You should be using chocks anyway so no big deal to go to X-chocks.

THE most annoying component of bounce is vertical movement. Structural engineers spend a lot of time analyzing floor vibration and deflection in buildings to minimize the perception of movement and TT frames/floors are similar. Some TTs suffer more bounce than others and it depends on factors like the frame's strength, length and mass of the TT. Also, some subfloors have more deflection than others (depending on joist spacing and material used) which can add to the issue. Screw jacks or bottle jacks are the thing to use with one near each corner. An extra set of jacks near the axles can help in some cases. Some TTs have frames higher off the ground (ours is 24") and you'll need some sort of blocks to raise the jacks off the ground. Aluminum screw jacks only go to max. 17" high (min. 11").

Raising a jack to it's max. height makes it less stable in a lateral direction and you are better off building up the base of them. You could reduce lateral movement significantly by keeping the jack raised as little as possible and making the bottom of the blocks used to build up the jacks twice the height the top of jack is off the ground. For ex., if the top of the alum. stacker jack is 12" off the ground, the base would be 24x24". This is assuming the ground the base is on is flat and stable.

Lateral movement can pretty much be eliminated by using stabilizer braces like the BAL Lock Arm, UF Eliminator, JT's Strongarm or Steadyfast. With X-chocks, you won't really need ones in a fore/aft direction. A pair of BAL Lock Arms mounted side-side (in front and in rear) is cheaper and all that's really needed.

Some don't think that stabilizer braces are needed and don't do much and can be quite adamant about it. Each person's situation is different and some may find the braces help a lot while some may find that screw or bottle jacks are good enough and stop there. I find that with using the alum. stacker jacks, it's still not quite good enough. I have a set of the BAL braces I'll be installing soon.

For those that have elec. stab. jacks, they do a poor job of "stabilizing". To see how they fare, get down on the ground and watch what happens when someone walks up and down the entry steps. Manual scissor jacks work much better for controlling vertical movement.

I agree about the video. It is intended for seasonal campers. For anyone else it's absurd. No one (I hope) is going to carry 30 or so cinder blocks around with them. Not to mention numerous 2x2 ft plywood and styrofoam sheets.
The OP appears to go on numerous shorter trips each year. They may be candidates for the more expensive installed systems (assuming they work). Some things are just worth paying for.

[Godspeedme]

4X4Dodger wrote:
It's a good thing you dont have a boat.

Lol, spent a few years on a boat in the Navy. If I wanted a boat I would buy a boat. If it was just me and my husband it would be fine. Or even just us and 1 kid. But a whole tribe of kids brings it to a entirely new level.

Also they are ages 6-11. The 11 yo is ADHD and makes poor choices so we have a bit of time before its tent age.