Stripped Anode Rod

[Heelbilly]

Hey, y'all.

Alright... I'm in a pickle...

Long story made relatively short, my element went out in my Suburban sw6de water heater. No big deal. I figured I'd drain the tank via the anode rod and give it a look. (My trailer has another drain for the hot water heater...) The trailer is only one year old and I pulled the anode rod last winter when winterizing and put it back in this spring. I'll be totally honest and own my first mistake... This is my first trailer so I'm making a few as I go. When I reinstalled it, I believe I torqued it in there a little too tight. I did use teflon tape in hopes it would come out easier. It was a bear to get out the first time.

Fast forward to today... I've tried everything to get this anode rod out. I started with a 1-1/16" 6 point socket and a breaker bar. Nothing. Not even a little budge. I moved on to my impact wrench. I hit it for a solid minute at 300 ft/lb and nothing...

At this point, I've committed the cardinal sin and rounded off the hex head. I tried getting a pipe wrench on it as a last effort, but there just isn't enough room.

So, I think I'm down to a couple of options:
1. Leave it in there 'cause it ain't coming out. The tank will rust out a lot quicker, but I don't exactly have an option...

2. Drill it. I'm hesitant on this one, and thus the purpose of this post. I'm wondering if anyone has ever gone this extreme and been successful?

I suppose option 3 is get a new water heater, but I don't particularly care for option 3. I thought about a socket for rounded bolts. I have some that I got years ago at Sears. They only go up to 3/4" though. I haven't seen one big enough for a 1-1/16".

Thought I'd check with you smart folks to see if you had any sage advice?

I appreciate it.

[Fireballsocal]

For heating and rapid cooling, a torch followed by the liquid shot from an upside down can of pressurized air like the sell for cleaning/dusting electronics. Held upside down, the stuff that comes out is liquid c02 and will quickly cool the bolt.

[3oaks]

Huntindog wrote:
Weld a big nut to to it. While it is still hot, get a wrench on it. Heat alone usually works pretty good at breaking things loose, but since it is already rounded, the welding of the nut will fix both problems.

There's your best answer.

If you rounded off the head while using a 6 point socket, no easy-out is going to break it loose and I rather doubt a pipe extractor will either. Although a pipe extractor may work if you first heat the plug and cool it rapidly. Sometimes the heating and contraction is enough to break the threads loose.

Just leaving it in and ignoring it is going to cause you problems, most likely at the most inconvenient time.

[Heelbilly]

I purchased a 27mm twist socket. (Thanks jsteih.) I'm going to try that before taking the more drastic measures. The 1-1/16" is a little loose on it at this point, but a 1" won't hammer on, so we shall see.

After that I'll go to the EZ Out and Plan Z will be Huntindog's "bust out the welder" plan.

I'll keep you boys posted... For entertainment purposes.

Thanks again, y'all!

[mbopp]

So it's so tight you rounded the head off. And now you want to try an easy-out? I'd leave it - if you break off the easy out you'll be really in a world of hurt.

[Huntindog]

Weld a big nut to to it. While it is still hot, get a wrench on it. Heat alone usually works pretty good at breaking things loose, but since it is already rounded, the welding of the nut will fix both problems.

[Heelbilly]

Mike Taverniti wrote:
I would drill and use e-z out. Get a pipe tap to clean threads. You can do it.

Alright... Y'all are about to talk me into it. Now, I will say I torqued that sucker in there like a gorilla when I reinstalled it. I thought that was the goal. Live and learn.

Y'all just stay tuned for when I ask, "has anyone ever changed out their sw6de water heater?"

[Mike_Taverniti]

I would drill and use e-z out. Get a pipe tap to clean threads. You can do it.

[BB_TX]

Old-Biscuit wrote:

BB_TX wrote:
Since it did not budge with breaker bar or impact and rounded it off with a 6 point, I have little faith that an EZ out will do any better. I would just leave it for the time being and plan on a tank replacement in your future. When you get to that point you can take more drastic measures to try to get it out before buying a new tank.

And next time just snug the anode rod. With tape the pipe threads do not need much tightening to prevent leaking.

Can't just buy a new tank.....Suburban requires whole new water heater.
No Suburban tank replacements offered.

Yeah. The brain was thinking water heater but the fingers typed tank. :S

[jsteih]

Newbie, so my links were removed. Kanokroil is the first on available on amazon. the second was an ebay link to a 27mm Twist socket.

Use ***Link Removed*** a couple of times before you want to remove it. PBBlaster is ok, but kano is best.

Order one of these ***Link Removed***

I'd also put some heat with a propane torch right on the end of it, just before you try and remove it.

[Old-Biscuit]

BB_TX wrote:
Since it did not budge with breaker bar or impact and rounded it off with a 6 point, I have little faith that an EZ out will do any better. I would just leave it for the time being and plan on a tank replacement in your future. When you get to that point you can take more drastic measures to try to get it out before buying a new tank.

And next time just snug the anode rod. With tape the pipe threads do not need much tightening to prevent leaking.

Can't just buy a new tank.....Suburban requires whole new water heater.
No Suburban tank replacements offered.

[BB_TX]

Since it did not budge with breaker bar or impact and rounded it off with a 6 point, I have little faith that an EZ out will do any better. I would just leave it for the time being and plan on a tank replacement in your future. When you get to that point you can take more drastic measures to try to get it out before buying a new tank.

And next time just snug the anode rod. With tape the pipe threads do not need much tightening to prevent leaking.

[Old-Biscuit]

midnightsadie wrote:
drill it ,,tap it to a 3/8ths pipe plug and forget it.

Need to remove it.......it's not just a bolt head it has the steel rod and anode rod attached.

Besides 3/8 plug won't drain the crud out nor allow flushing of tank.
Reason Suburban uses a 3/4" drain hole.

[midnightsadie]

drill it ,,tap it to a 3/8ths pipe plug and forget it.

[Heelbilly]

What would you boys think about drilling a bit and using a 3/4" or 1/2" pipe extractor? Or would you recommend sticking with the EZ Out?

[Old-Biscuit]

Terryallan wrote:
If it were me. I'd just leave it. My first Water heater didn't even have one, so I'm not totally convinced they really, really need one.
However. If you can't get it out. You need to be sure the water heater will drain thru the low point drains. If it won't. you will have to get the plug out

Your 'first' one must have been an Atwood Brand.
Aluminum tank =anode rod not used/needed

Suburban Steel tank=anode rod necessary