Stripped Anode Rod

[Heelbilly]

Hey, y'all.

Alright... I'm in a pickle...

Long story made relatively short, my element went out in my Suburban sw6de water heater. No big deal. I figured I'd drain the tank via the anode rod and give it a look. (My trailer has another drain for the hot water heater...) The trailer is only one year old and I pulled the anode rod last winter when winterizing and put it back in this spring. I'll be totally honest and own my first mistake... This is my first trailer so I'm making a few as I go. When I reinstalled it, I believe I torqued it in there a little too tight. I did use teflon tape in hopes it would come out easier. It was a bear to get out the first time.

Fast forward to today... I've tried everything to get this anode rod out. I started with a 1-1/16" 6 point socket and a breaker bar. Nothing. Not even a little budge. I moved on to my impact wrench. I hit it for a solid minute at 300 ft/lb and nothing...

At this point, I've committed the cardinal sin and rounded off the hex head. I tried getting a pipe wrench on it as a last effort, but there just isn't enough room.

So, I think I'm down to a couple of options:
1. Leave it in there 'cause it ain't coming out. The tank will rust out a lot quicker, but I don't exactly have an option...

2. Drill it. I'm hesitant on this one, and thus the purpose of this post. I'm wondering if anyone has ever gone this extreme and been successful?

I suppose option 3 is get a new water heater, but I don't particularly care for option 3. I thought about a socket for rounded bolts. I have some that I got years ago at Sears. They only go up to 3/4" though. I haven't seen one big enough for a 1-1/16".

Thought I'd check with you smart folks to see if you had any sage advice?

I appreciate it.

[2_many_2]

rwjejits wrote:
Can't wait to hear what method is used and how this one turns out. The suspense is killing me...

X2

[wing_zealot]

Heelbilly wrote:
I'm about to have to take off out of the country for the week on a business trip. Next weekend either the anode rod or the heater dies. Stay tuned...

In that case you're going to be shopping for a new water heater so you better order it now so you have it for next weekend. Best advice you got was to leave it for now and plan on replacing it when you need to.

[Heelbilly]

I'm about to have to take off out of the country for the week on a business trip. Next weekend either the anode rod or the heater dies. Stay tuned...

[rwjejits]

Can't wait to hear what method is used and how this one turns out. The suspense is killing me...

[Lynnmor]

Huntindog wrote:
If these STEEL tanks are GLASS lined.... Then water doesn't touch any steel.... So why the anode rod?

Only a guess, but I think it is to protect the imperfect areas where plumbing connects to the tank. Once corrosion starts there it can creep behind the glass.

[Huntindog]

If these STEEL tanks are GLASS lined.... Then water doesn't touch any steel.... So why the anode rod?

[westend]

Huntindog wrote:
I don't think the tank is glass lined...That is why it uses an anode rod.

I am not sure what a anode rod is made of. Magnesium and welding though do not mix.

If it cannot be welded on, then the drilling it out incrementally can work. With careful chiseling for the last step. This is a tricky operation though, and the risk of thread damage is pretty high. A tap can be used afterwards to help repair SLIGHTLY damaged threads.

I have had pretty good luck with this method over the years. Before I got into welding, it was my go to method.

I like welding better now, when it is possible.

AFAIK, all steel tanks that have an anode rod are glass lined. Aluminum tanks don't use an anode. The anode material is usually aluminum or magnesium.

I would use a fairly large bit and an extractor but I have many of different sizes and types. Heat would also be my buddy.

[Old-Biscuit]

Huntindog wrote:
I don't think the tank is glass lined...That is why it uses an anode rod.

I am not sure what a anode rod is made of. Magnesium and welding though do not mix.

If it cannot be welded on, then the drilling it out incrementally can work. With careful chiseling for the last step. This is a tricky operation though, and the risk of thread damage is pretty high. A tap can be used afterwards to help repair SLIGHTLY damaged threads.

I have had pretty good luck with this method over the years. Before I got into welding, it was my go to method.

I like welding better now, when it is possible.

Suburban uses an anode rod BECAUSE tank is STEEL that is glass-lined (just like a residential water heater)
(Atwood uses an aluminum clad alloy tank hence no anode rod)

Suburban OEM anode rod is MAGNESIUM as it is the MOST conductive and disintegrates the quickest therefore the most corrosion protection under the widest conditions.
An aluminum anode rod is optional.

Flat surface on hex head of rod indicates aluminum rod
A bump on surface of hex head indicates magnesium rod

[Huntindog]

I don't think the tank is glass lined...That is why it uses an anode rod.

I am not sure what a anode rod is made of. Magnesium and welding though do not mix.

If it cannot be welded on, then the drilling it out incrementally can work. With careful chiseling for the last step. This is a tricky operation though, and the risk of thread damage is pretty high. A tap can be used afterwards to help repair SLIGHTLY damaged threads.

I have had pretty good luck with this method over the years. Before I got into welding, it was my go to method.

I like welding better now, when it is possible.

[nomad_297]

llr wrote:
if you really want to get it out I would drill as close to the center as possible then keep going larger until you are almost to the threads then try to crush the plug with larch channel locks or chisel it in

Great idea!

I wish I had thought of that.

Bruce

[llr]

as long as you can drain it to avoid freezing in the winter I would leave it alone. Yes it will shorten the life of the water heater but that is the only downside to leave it alone except freezing.

if you drill it you have a good chance of needing a new one now, if you don't you probably will get 5-10 years out of it.

if you really want to get it out I would drill as close to the center as possible then keep going larger until you are almost to the threads then try to crush the plug with larch channel locks or chisel it in

[nomad_297]

The method I use to get seized anode plugs out of residential water heaters is to start drilling in the center of the nut with a small drill bit and keep stepping up the size of the bit I'm using untill I get as close to the threads as possible without damaging them. Keep in mind, the threads are tapered and the diameter inside of the tank is smaller than what you see on the outside. The plug material is malleable, so when you get it thin enough, you can start to tap it from the outside edge towards the center of the hole with an old screwdriver and a hammer - it will bend and usually split and separate from the outer threads and you can then pull it out with needle nose pliers. I usually use small Vise-Grip needle nose pliers so I don't drop the remainder of the plug into the tank if I have previously cut the head of the plug off with a Sawzall, which I usually do so I have a better idea of how close to threads I am drilling.

Not actually knowing the the condition and length of an anode rod in a residential water heater, I will only use this method on gas water heaters because once the hole is drilled through the plug, any remaining anode rod will drop to the bottom of the tank. This isn't a problem with a gas water heater, but could be dangerous with an electric water heater if the anode ends up falling against an element. You don't have to worry about this with your RV water heater, however.

Bruce

[Heelbilly]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Just remember.......

The tank is GLASS-LINED

HOT/COLD could cause glass to crack/shatter

But after 300# impact it may already be damaged.

Great point. I may consider this one a $400 lesson learned and swap the heater. I'm not welder, but if the rod is magnesium, I know enough to know not to put a welder near that unless you're a pyromaniac. I'll try the twist socket and I'll try the pipe extractor route because I'm going to have to drill either way to drain the tank for a swap. It didn't drain from the low point drains like I hoped it would.

Live and learn.

I appreciate all the input!!

[Old-Biscuit]

Just remember.......

The tank is GLASS-LINED

HOT/COLD could cause glass to crack/shatter

But after 300# impact it may already be damaged.

[deltabravo]

Heelbilly wrote:
You think the EZ Out will hold under that much pressure? That's my only hesitation... Once I start drilling I'm all in. I believe the head of the anode rod is aluminum. It about has to be to have rounded off so easy with a 6 point socket.

I don't think it will hold. It will shatter.

I've never broke one, but I remember seeing them get broke off when trying to remove stripped allen head fasterners used to secure the panels on the good ole' AGM-86B (Air Launched Cruise Missile) that was carried on the B-52G and H in my Air Force days.

Once an EZ Out breaks, mayhem ensues. You pretty much can't drill them because they are very hard material from what I recall.