Haley, thanks for the nice comment on my truck...going to keep it till the wheels
fall off.
Always like that since a kid (keep'm a looooooooong time), but
re-enforced by today's overly complex vehicles that some has to have
the body removed or lifted off the frame in order to work
on them. Think that is what your buddy is talking about
Several here have denied that and even some say they did it without...but the
fact is that the 'shop manual' (not the glove box, nor the auto supply store
level of manual, but the one mechanics buy...I always try to get the set..even
for used vehicles...they cost in the hundreds of bucks)
Or that a proper tooling set (that included computer scanners and software) can
run into the tens of thousands of bucks for 'one' vehicle...they do have tooling
good for several, but not all models
PS...my Sub and for that matter, all my vehicles have my own super tunes
My Sub has outstopped a BMW 5 series and on another thread folks boohooed me,
and not worth my time on that thread to explain that, that BMW kept up both
in acceleration on the boulevard from stop lite to stop lite...but at the last
one he went into ABS...my Sub has super high performance brakes and he nailed
my rear bumper.
Going into ABS has LESS braking than one not into ABS, bot of similar
or same braking traction. It was dray asphalt. I still have more
braking performance before going into ABS...of which folks should
initiate ABS often...like once a month to keep them in good order
I consider braking more important that 'go' factors...though 'go'
factors important. Like having to stop on an insanely steep incline.
Getting it going again is all about GCWR and GCWR is boohooed by most
here on this forum(s) as not of importance.
That kind of stuff is unknown to most folks (non-boy racer and non-gear heads)
That mud hen, freebie pads that comes with rebuilt calipers can skid the tires
But they can NOT match the braking curve shape that mine has
Modulation of the braking is king on braking well. Mud hen stuff has no clue
what that means, as they are engineered for folks looking for 'cheapest'...
Anyway, sounds like you wrench and a good thing in my book...as better situated
to handle whatever 'out there in the boonies' when Mr Murphy strikes.
Glad you are willing to take the time to educate yourself on the topic, of which
I consider life and limb matters...
-Ben
Picture of my rig1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...