DiskDoctr wrote:
Also, take a look at this article about adjusting WDH.
Weight Distributing Hitch Adjustment
I suggest that anyone who looks at that article should ignore the last part of the following statement:
6. Re-measure the tow vehicle height at the wheel wells, and write it down. You will find that the rear end of the tow vehicle has dropped, probably more than an inch. And you will find that the front end of the tow vehicle has risen. Our goal is to make them both drop, and by approximately the same amount.
(Underline added for emphasis.)
The approximately equal drop approach no longer is recommended by the majority of TV and WDH manufacturers.
The following statement also no longer applies to current practice:
9. Release the spring bars, remove the chains, and put the chains back on at a different
link. Repeat steps 7 and 8 until you find which link makes the tow vehicleโs front and rear both drop, and drop by the same amount. {NOTE: Some people feel that the front end of the tow vehicle does not need to drop, or at least doesnโt have to drop as far as the rear end. I wonโt try to give a definitive answer, except that the front end should not rise at all when you put the weight on the rear, and it should not drop more than the rear end drops.}
(Underline added for emphasis.)
The front end should not drop at all. In fact, Ford and GM/Chevrolet now specify for some vehicles that only 50% of the front-end rise should be eliminated via the WDH.
I also disagree with this statement:
11. You are done. If you disabled an air shock compressor, restart it.
If the ride height control was disabled prior to adjustment of the WDH, the rear end will be below the unhitched height. When the height control is "restarted", the rear of the TV and front of the TT will be raised, and the load on the WD bars will be decreased. This will cause the amount of load transfer to be decreased.
Ron
