Tire Inflation Guide

[Kountryguy]

Can anyone tell me where I can find a chart telling what pressure I should run for the axle weights that I have? Thanks

[NC_Hauler]

blt2ski wrote:
An E rated tire of the same size as a D rated tire, will carry the same load at the same pressure up to the max of the D rated tire. The E rated tire has the ability to carry a higher pressure, hence a heavier load.

A tire pressure load chart works, I use the chalk method. Ie put some tire chalk on the tread, drive down the road, if all of the chalk goes away in a 100 yds or so, you either have the correct pressure, or too little. If a partial goes away, ie the middle only, you have too much psi. You can see the same effect after going thru a puddle and stopping a few yds later, or if the middle has dust, the outer does not.....

Not sure there is truly a right or wrong way per say. Other than, not fun to see the middles wear out of the tread before the outer. Then you know you had too much psi, and wore out the tire too soon!

marty

Marty..WAYYYY to much work and I'm not lazy...Pretty doggone sure from what I've gleaned from Michelin, Continental/General and Goodyear, that running at sidewall max recommended psi will NOT cause issues with the tire...IF used as an E or G rated tire in replacement of an E or G rated tire..... I've never seen the middle of my tire wear abnormally....

Again, if one has the time and equipment to weigh each tire, have at it, but I'm not hooking up and running back and forth over something to check tire pattern AND I don't have access close by, or the time, to find a place where I can get each tire weighed....I'll go by manufacturers recommendations and again, the GY G614's on my 5er now, run at 110 psi and look as good as they did the day they were put on my 5er in Oct. of 2010....

[blt2ski]

An E rated tire of the same size as a D rated tire, will carry the same load at the same pressure up to the max of the D rated tire. The E rated tire has the ability to carry a higher pressure, hence a heavier load.

A tire pressure load chart works, I use the chalk method. Ie put some tire chalk on the tread, drive down the road, if all of the chalk goes away in a 100 yds or so, you either have the correct pressure, or too little. If a partial goes away, ie the middle only, you have too much psi. You can see the same effect after going thru a puddle and stopping a few yds later, or if the middle has dust, the outer does not.....

Not sure there is truly a right or wrong way per say. Other than, not fun to see the middles wear out of the tread before the outer. Then you know you had too much psi, and wore out the tire too soon!

marty

[Cummins12V98]

As I have said here before. Contact GY Tech Support for what they say. I did when going from GY E to GY G. They said to use the chart on RV for STOCK RATED TIRES. But if you are up rating the tires use the inflation chart for your new tires and add 5psi. For example my RV said 80psi and my load need that psi, surprise surprise! Now with the G tires the load still needed 80psi but by adding 5 psi I was at the proper tire inflation for the tire.

They said they defer to RV label when stock tires are replaced with stock but the charts are there for a reason. They also said too much air as in 110psi for my load will give a more harsh ride along with less stopping traction.

I used GY inflation method for 5 years and a lot of miles with perfect tire wear and never a problem.

[NC_Hauler]

past-MIdirector wrote:
Need to look at the load range on the replacement tires. Most RV replacement tires are one or two load ranges high with a higher max. pressure then what was originally put on. I was taught many moons ago that to be safe air tires to 10% of what the max. pressure is on the tire. This has worked for 40 years now.

Well, I'll admit I've never done that, I've alway's aired to max sidewall rated psi...never added an extra 10% which would be loading a Michelin "E" rated RIBS to 88# instead of 80 and airing my GY G614's to 121 psi instead of the recommended 110psi...one could do that, but again, I've been towing since 75, (and some before that), and also never had an issue... and thats worked for me for almost 40 years also...

My experience has seen most newer RV's with tires on them that are "just close" enough to cover axle rating...as little as the manufacturer can get away with and cut corners on cost. It's rare that I've seen a "G" rated tire where an "E" rated tire would have worked...it's very, very rare.

[WayneLee]

The quality of the 'ride' is partially dependent on tire pressure. The tire mfg site gives you the minimum pressure to carry the weight, while the tire sidewall gives you another maximum pressure. Also, the coach mfg gives you a sheet with their "recommended" pressure. In general, the lower the tire pressure you have, the smoother the ride you will have.

For example, on my coach, I have Michelins and I know the loaded weight on each corner. According to the Michelin charts, I can carry 85 pounds on the front tires and 90 pounds on the back. The max pressure listed on the tire is something like 115, and the mfg chart recommends 110 front and back. I chose to carry each tire at 95 pounds which seems like a compromise all around plus I get a good ride at that pressure.

I ran my calculations past the dealer, who said "huh?". I called the Monaco and talked to them. They confirmed my calculations and my decision to carry 95 pounds pressure.

[wilber1]

These are load rating charts not recommended pressures. All they do is give the maximum load a tire can carry at a certain pressure.

[past-MIdirector]

Need to look at the load range on the replacement tires. Most RV replacement tires are one or two load ranges high with a higher max. pressure then what was originally put on. I was taught many moons ago that to be safe air tires to 10% of what the max. pressure is on the tire. This has worked for 40 years now.

[powderman426]

I just use Max side wall pressure. I would rather be over than under.

[NC_Hauler]

CapriRacer wrote:
Word of caution:

Those inflation charts are MINIMUMS!! They are NOT recommendations.

And just an FYI: Inflation pressure only has a minor effect on tire wear. On a trailer, wear is hardly ever the issue - unless you have an alignment problem. So you can use a lot more pressure than the chart says and still have good tire wear.

EXACTLY!! I use the placard that shows recommended tire psi that is located on the rv. One will not go wrong by airing to max sidewall pressure either...I run GY G rated G614's and it's recommended by 5er manufacturer as well as Goodyear, to run these tires on this 5er at 110 psi.....When I had RIBS, Michelin recommended to run them at 80 psi, (also what was on the placard of the 5er I had at the time..same psi rating as OEM tires that came on that 5er).

It just doesn't seem "real world" to weigh each tire and air each tire to a possible different amount.s. Don't know how many could realistically do this on these forums...Much more real world and far simpler to, at the very least, to air tire to max sidewall pressure, IF tire is same size and tire rating as OEM tire was..

[CapriRacer]

Word of caution:

Those inflation charts are MINIMUMS!! They are NOT recommendations.

And just an FYI: Inflation pressure only has a minor effect on tire wear. On a trailer, wear is hardly ever the issue - unless you have an alignment problem. So you can use a lot more pressure than the chart says and still have good tire wear.

[Golden_HVAC]

Check this site too.


http://www.michelintruck.com/michelintruck_en_us/tires-retreads/load-inflation-tables.jsp

Fred.

[Old-Biscuit]

Check your tire mfg.s website for the load chart for their tires.