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Travel Trailer Brake Problem

rirish1
Explorer
Explorer
I have an intermittent problem with my TT brakes. I have a 2017 Chevy 2500 with the internal brake module. I recently drove 1000 miles without problem when the truck started alarming with the following message:
Check Trailer Connection. It then almost immediately notifies me that the trailer is connected. It is accompanied by an alarm bell and it sometimes happens 3-5 times a minute. The 7 pin plug is in good shape and I can't duplicate the problem. Other than rewiring the entire brake system does anyone have any suggestions? Can a brake magnet go bad intermittently? This didn't start until one of the bolts holding the brake plate on came loose and rattled around in one wheel for hundreds of miles. The TT is a 2008 KZ and it seems unlikely that there is a wiring problem.
15 REPLIES 15

98coachman
Explorer
Explorer
9times out of 10 it will be the ground for the brakes, check that first! A lot of times the manufacturer will only put one ground per axle, hence causing a problem. I will always ground each brake any more and this usually cures any brake issues. Good luck and happy camping!

whjco
Explorer
Explorer
I had trailer brake problems and found it in the crimps on the wires connecting the axles to the feed from the brake unit.
Bill J., Lexington, KY
2006 Starcraft 2500RKS 25' Travel Trailer
2015 Ram 2500 Big Horn 6.7 Cummins.

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
Fisherman wrote:
kellem wrote:
Start simple and apply some dielectric grease to the 7-pin connection.


Why people do this is beyond comprehension.

Dielectric grease, or tune-up grease, is a silicone-based grease that repels moisture and protects electrical connections against corrosion. ... The grease does not conduct electricity, so it shouldn't be applied directly to the mating surfaces (pins and sockets) of an electrical connection


Agreed, fix the connection and then if you must, apply that junk.
But dielectric grease has never made a connection better. Nothing works better than a clean, dry connection.

I made a lot of money fixing avionics that had nothing more wrong with them than some av-tech having slathered that muck on the connections.

Krusty
Nomad
Nomad
Have an assistant apply the brakes while you go around and listen for the hum noise at each wheel. If one wheel is silent, that is a good place to start looking. Inspect the brake wiring the best you can. You may have to pull the brake drums off to have a look at the wiring in there too
Krusty
92 F-250 4x4 460 5spd 4.10LS Prodigy
97 Rustler RT190
EU2000i
Garmin

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
Could be time to replace your 7 pin plug, They can look good but not be.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
rirish1 wrote:
It is a 2018 TT so I am hesitant about rewiring the whole thing. I will explore the whole system again. I can never reduplicate it without driving hundreds of miles. I appreciate all the suggestions. I thought about replacing the magnet in the suspected wheel first.


Your first post said "2008 TT", never the less if you think these things are made correctly think again. My KZ had one brake wire crimped on the insulation, so only three worked.

Since your controller reported a disconnect, I would think that three brakes working would not cause the warning. Also, a short is probably not the issue.

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
rirish1 wrote:
It is a 2018 TT so I am hesitant about rewiring the whole thing. I will explore the whole system again. I can never reduplicate it without driving hundreds of miles. I appreciate all the suggestions. I thought about replacing the magnet in the suspected wheel first.


OK, might wish to edit your original post as you did mention 2008..

rirish1 wrote:
snip.. The TT is a 2008 KZ and it seems unlikely that there is a wiring problem.


Unless the magnet shows physical damage I would just look at the wire to make sure no insulation has been shredded.

If you find any damaged insulation you can simply either cover the bare insulation with black tape or cut and splice with crimp or solder and then cover with black tape or if you have heat shrink tubing. Then make sure the wire routing will not cause any further problems.

rirish1
Explorer
Explorer
It is a 2018 TT so I am hesitant about rewiring the whole thing. I will explore the whole system again. I can never reduplicate it without driving hundreds of miles. I appreciate all the suggestions. I thought about replacing the magnet in the suspected wheel first.

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
Loose wheel bolt?

Lucky you didn't tear up the brake shoes and lockup the brakes..

But, yes, a nut or bolt flying around inside of a contained area could have chaffed the brake magnet wire and is causing an intermittent short.

Another suspect place is most manufacturers run the brake wiring inside the axle tubes.. The wire is laying loose inside the tube and can easily rub the insulation causing an intermittent short..

Some issue with the axle tube can also break the wires inside the tube causing no connection to the other brake.

Manufacturers also do not use weather proof connectors and the wires tend to corrode inside the crimps making for poor or intermittent connections.

Check the wheel where you found the bolt loose, make sure the magnet wire is not damaged.

Check and verify all of the connections at the crimp connectors.

Barring all that, you have a 2008 trailer, running all new wiring is not a bad idea and you can upgrade the wire size a couple of wire gauges, use better weather proof wire connectors and get better braking at the same time.

SpeakEasy
Explorer
Explorer
Yes, that wheel with the loose bolt is suspect. That's the first place I'd be looking for a short. Get your multi-meter out and happy hunting!

-Speak
It's just Mrs. SpeakEasy and me now (empty-nesters). But we can choose from among 7 grandchildren to drag along with us!



2014 F-150 Super Crew Short Bed 3.5L Ecoboost
2014 Flagstaff Micro Lite 23LB

Fisherman
Explorer
Explorer
kellem wrote:
Start simple and apply some dielectric grease to the 7-pin connection.


Why people do this is beyond comprehension.

Dielectric grease, or tune-up grease, is a silicone-based grease that repels moisture and protects electrical connections against corrosion. ... The grease does not conduct electricity, so it shouldn't be applied directly to the mating surfaces (pins and sockets) of an electrical connection

kellem
Explorer
Explorer
Start simple and apply some dielectric grease to the 7-pin connection.

Sometimes the 7 pin gets a little bit slightly corroded or the surface of the pins make less than optimal contact. Mine does that once in a while.

When I connect, I am in the habit of running the plug in and out a couple times, wiggling, slightly rotating it when I plug it in. I find that helps ensure a good connection.

On the trailer connector, I sometimes take a tiny file or similar and rough up the contacts a bit to make sure it has a clean surface in there. Have a look in the truck connector and make sure the pins are clean too. Gotta be careful if you rough them up a bit, don't short out anything hot.
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ Dmax/Allison - 2007 Pacific Coachworks Tango 306RLSS
RV Rebuild Website - Site launched Aug 22, 2021 - www.rv-rebuild.com

bgum
Explorer
Explorer
Sounds like a short. It may well be right at the magnet area caused by the loose brake plate.