Ultraheat Tank Heater AC/DC

[TECMike]

Looking at possibly installing an Ultraheat 40 gallon tank heater with dual elements, both AC and DC, which would allow the tank to be heated while traveling.

Sure would appreciate hearing from those who have installed this tank heater. Was the DC mode too much current draw for your tow vehicle and converter on your trailer/fifth wheel?

Would you buy this model again or buy just the model for AC only and use it when plugged into shore power?

Thanks in advance for your comments.

Mike

[TurnThePage]

I think I read where Ultra Heat claims their pad will keep the tank thawed down to about 5F without insulation. I also installed insulation when I added mine. Just to be clear, the pad typically doesn't need to be on all the time. I haven't paid enough attention to see how long they run continuously, but it's not bad. I chose the cheaper 12v only option for the black and gray tanks, and the pipes, which I also insulated.

[Mike_Up]

I didn't bother getting a heated underbelly. When we camp in the cold, we use the campgrounds bathhouse and use plastic tubs to wash dishes with. We use water filled in jugs for washing dishes. To much to deal with in the cold and much less hassle using the bathhouses. We got use to this with the Pop Ups and now do the same with the travel trailers.

[handye9]

westend wrote:
Has anybody used these ultraheat pads down into subzero temps?

I have them installed on both TT and TC. They were factory installed on the trailer. I added them on the truck camper. Deer camp in North Dakota, it's not unusual to see - 5 to - 10.

They worked fine, except for the dump valve. My tanks were warm enough, but, the dump valve froze up. This was with pipe and elbow heaters installed to within eight inches of the valve. Warm tanks are useless, if you can't get rid of the stuff.

Little trick I have learned -- Put a gallon of pink stuff in each tank, before use, and a couple hours before dumping, I put an extension (six inch) on the valve, fill it with disposable pocket warmers, and put the cap back on. By the time I get to dump station, the valve is thawed enough to dump. Put the used warmers in the trash and dump as usual.

Also, it can be difficult finding an open dump site. Many of them close up in cold weather.

[Ron_Nielson]

I bought the Ultraheat dual voltage pads with the thought that if it is REALLY COLD (say -20*F)and I had 110V electricity available, I could tun both the 12V and the 110V side of the pads simultaneously, adding a little extra heat to the tanks. Also, when going down the road or if dry camping, I could use my on-board genny to power the pads in a similar manner.

I believe one of the previous posts said that a pad used about 8 or 9 amps DC and the battery load wasn't too bad. You'll probably have 3 of those pads (or more), so 24 to 27 amps is a considerable load if you are running on just batteries.

[time2roll]

UltraHeat has many 12 volt pipe, elbow, valve heat options.
I wrapped with self regulating 120v heat trace and wrapped with insulation.

[christopherglen]

I would still attempt to insulate the bottom of the tank - at lease where the heat pad is. Just open to the wind you will loose close to 1/3 of the heat between the exposed pad, and exposed tank next to it. Just keeping the breeze off will reduce those losses drastically.

The farm tractor has a metal pan (you use a magnet) which transfers heat far better then a plastic tank. More of the heat actually gets into the oil, vs being lost at the heater.

[CavemanCharlie]

Mike Up wrote:

Also, when we add heat trace to pipes at work, it does NOTHING unless there's insulation to retain the heat. Seems a heating pad won't work to well, without an enclosed and insulated underbelly to keep the cold off of the heating pad.

.

I'm betting the heating element is right out the outside of the pad, on the top only, and touches the bottom of the tank. In that way all the heat is being transferred to the tank directly. I have a magnetic heater that I stick to the bottom of the oil pan on my farm tractor to keep the oil warm on the winter. It works quite well.

[Mike_Up]

Stupid question that I've never seen yet. Holding tank heaters only heat the tanks, what about the waste tank pipe outlets to their shutoff valves? Seems that ABS plastic piping would crack pretty easily since it's not heated, just the tanks. I've seen laminated ultra light trailers marketing the feature of heating pads on the tanks, but not noting any heating on pipes?

Also, when we add heat trace to pipes at work, it does NOTHING unless there's insulation to retain the heat. Seems a heating pad won't work to well, without an enclosed and insulated underbelly to keep the cold off of the heating pad.

I definitely would opt for a 12 volt heater as those tanks need to be heated when there's no hookups. You also may have to get a larger converter for the added amperage for the heaters as well as heavier wiring to handle the amperage.

[pianotuna]

Hi Westend,

They do give a safe temperature number at the web site.

[westend]

Has anybody used these ultraheat pads down into subzero temps?

[Flyfisherman128]

I have had the a/c d/c ultraheat set up for 7 years. First of all the a/c side works well when plugged in. Second the d/c works well when traveling.. but in actuality when traveling the water sloshes around in the tank and shouldn't freeze anyway. I have only had my mh down to 20 degrees so below that I cant say. I think they are worth the money.

[TECMike]

Thanks folks. My blackwater tank and graywater tank are only 25 gallons each. Freshwater is 40 gallons.

So I have some decisions to make. Thanks again for the information. Mike

[time2roll]

I have this pad on my mostly exposed 50 gallon fresh tank. Yes I would get the same again. 120v alone allowed the tank to freeze as temps got down to zero. Put the 12v on and we had water in a few hours. 12v current draw is not huge and your converter should be fine for the single pad.

Running a bit from battery power should be fine in transit as long as you plug in at the destination.

My waste tanks and pipes I stuck with 120v as the total 12v amps would have required a second converter to supply power. These three tanks are smaller and lower risk of issues if partially frozen.

[skipnchar]

I have the duel voltage system on my Rockwood and have had no difficulty towing with the heaters running with my 2004 F 150. I have not had an occasion to do so with the 2011 truck. It would likely take a strong alternator for it to keep up though and my 04 HD F-150 had a very heavy duty alternator. Not sure about the new truck but THINK it would do the job as it's also an HD model. The system of course, would not work nearly as well without enclosed belly on the trailer. There was one winter that I simply didn't bother winterizing and left the trailer running on the heaters all winter (120 volt of course).
Good luck / Skip