Upper Stableload alternative

[Mike008]

I don't want to use a lower Stableload. I like the upper set up, but then I'm stuck riding on the overload all the time when I'm only using the camper 5 or 6 times a year. I'm entertaining making some kind of clamp on spacer to go on the overload spring. Shims would make it easily adjustable and I could remove it when the camper is off the truck. Anyone ever tried something like this?

[SoCalDesertRid1]

Looks great!

[Mike008]

joeshmoe wrote:
Looks like a good solution. The only concern is driving extended periods loaded, the bolts may loosen and cause shifting from constant pressure and movement. Good thing is you'd hear it if it comes loose. THUMP! Maybe weld tabs extending out either side and use a u-bolt from the bottom side up? Or figure out some kind of stop to prevent it from slipping all the way off.

Hey, been a while. When I get a chance I will post a pic of my final solution. It really worked out excellent. They have not moved on the spring at all. I put a little plumbers grease which is rubber-safe on the top to keep them from squeaking. I also made clamp-on stops that go on the outer side of the springs. It does 2 things. 1, when the camper is off the truck I just slide the spacers forward so they don't catch the rubber bump stops. The stops allow me to slide them into the right position instantly without fiddling around when I need them. And 2, if the a spacer somehow became loose the stop would prevent it from sliding off the spring.

[joeshmoe]

Mike008 wrote:
So here is what I came up with. I'm going to load the camper today and hook up the trailer and see where it puts me. I may need to do some shimming, but I think it will be effective. When I'm unloaded I can loosen 2 bolts and slide them away from the rubber stops and tighten them there.

Looks like a good solution. The only concern is driving extended periods loaded, the bolts may loosen and cause shifting from constant pressure and movement. Good thing is you'd hear it if it comes loose. THUMP! Maybe weld tabs extending out either side and use a u-bolt from the bottom side up? Or figure out some kind of stop to prevent it from slipping all the way off.

[Reddog1]

Rob, I think you have it right. I have made the same observation on several products.

Wayne

[unbob]

I don't get it. Can someone explain why the StableLoad (upper bump stop) - $70 each (lol!:() - is priced 4x the price of the Energy Suspension product (Part Number: 9.9109) - $17.50 each?

To be clear, the StableLoad product is priced at $280 (complete set of 4) and the ES product is priced at $35 (set of 2).

The design and appearance of these products is almost identical and their function is the same.

Why would anyone spend 4x for the "same" product? What am I missing? Please enlighten me.

Thx, Rob

[Mike008]

d3500ram wrote:
Did you tap and thread the TS or are you going to use bolts? Maybe weld the bolts on the inside (less pieces to lose when not on the truck.)

I tapped the material. To be honest, I was a little lazy. I really should have either welded nuts in or an insert to allow me to tap a bigger thread. I didn't feel like setting up my welder. The bolts are only 1/4" since the stock is only 1/4" thick. I think it will be adequate to keep them in place, but 3/8" bolts would be better.

d3500ram wrote:
How easy (or difficult) is it to get to the bolts to remove and install? It looks as if you do not have fender well liners??? The reason why I ask is: I added liners to my Dodge and it makes access to the fasteners a real PIA because it narrows the space on the inside edge of the leaf spring. This is a main reason why I leave my spacers on full time.

My truck has no fender well liners so it literally takes me 5 minutes to install or remove all 4 of them.

[ticki2]

Looks good to me . Keep the bolts well lubed .

[d3500ram]

Hey Mike- I think that is a very good solution! Did you tap and thread the TS or are you going to use bolts? Maybe weld the bolts on the inside (less pieces to lose when not on the truck.)

How easy (or difficult) is it to get to the bolts to remove and install? It looks as if you do not have fender well liners??? The reason why I ask is: I added liners to my Dodge and it makes access to the fasteners a real PIA because it narrows the space on the inside edge of the leaf spring. This is a main reason why I leave my spacers on full time.

[Mike008]

So here is what I came up with. I'm going to load the camper today and hook up the trailer and see where it puts me. I may need to do some shimming, but I think it will be effective. When I'm unloaded I can loosen 2 bolts and slide them away from the rubber stops and tighten them there.

[towpro]

Here is the energy syspension blocks on a 2006 Dodge Ram.
This has about 50K miles, 1/2 of which is bed loaded with weight.
Yes I would do it again.
before the truck would drop 3 or 4" with weight of 5th wheel (2500 lbs).
after it would ride level.

they worked with my 3200 lb Wolf creek.

they also stopped the "slapping" when you were loaded but every bump caused the overload springs to "bang" into the frame mounted perches.

[ticki2]

Here are some that I made up several years ago and working well . I use SS muffler band clamps and plastic 2x4 . Loosen the 2 bolts and they slide off the end of the spring , no need to take apart . Use plenty of anti seize on the bolts which are not SS .

[d3500ram]

Mike008 wrote:
... some kind of clamp on spacer...

I take it that you what you mean by "clamp" is that it be temporary and the ability to be able to temporary and remove it at will. That will be a challenge. A "C" clamp I do not believe will have enough engaging force... Here is an idea: turn the TS 90 degrees and use 2 hose clamps. If it works, the only drawback I see is that it would be a PIA to remove.

Personally, I bought a truck and I don't mind if it rides like one. I have permanently mounted home-made uppers and lowers and leave 'em on all the time as well as have the shock setting at the stiffest setting.

[jimh406]

If you don't have anymore clearance than that I think your springs have sagged. If you want something less stiff than Stableloads, look into Energy Suspension bump stops like these. They help engage the overloads sooner but not as soon as the Stableloads.

There are a lot of variations here. http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/universal-bump-stops-shock-eyes.asp

I use this model, fwiw. http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.9109

[crawfdp1]

Second the comment re only engaging under load. StableLoad installation instructions suggest sawing off a corner of the angled rubber block if need be to ensure you don't have continual engagement. If you don't cut them eventually they will wear down (after a whole lot of squeaking, don't ask me how I know). If you've got the right part number for your truck they should be close but not hitting. If in doubt, call Tork Lift tech support and they can tell you how much (and where) you can cut or belt-sand for a bit of ride tuning. Good folks.

duncan