cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Want to start off on the right foot

6door74
Explorer
Explorer
Hello all,

My wife and i are starting to work our way into the "RV" lifestyle. It will only be part time but I intend to get out as much as possible. Even if only for the weekend a short distance away.

I originally wanted to buy a travel trailer I could tow with my ford flex. Needless to say, after seeing that size trailer in person (and at the persuasion of the salesperson) we decided bigger would be better. We're a family of 5 but 2 of our kids are now "adults" in college. I don't know how much time we'll still get with them on vacations, but we still want something that sleeps approx 10 people. We intend on our trailer being a family trailer to include nieces and nephews.

With that said, we kept going bigger and bigger and now I'm looking at travel trailers that are about 30' at least. Considering that we'll have extended family in the trailer, we decided to go with a van. That way we can all most likely ride in 1 vehicle. We purchased a 2006 ford e350 with the V10 and 4.10 gears. From everything I've read, it's a beast for towing and a bigger beast at the gas pumps. It has 55k miles and will be solely a tow vehicle and on the rare occasion, if he need that much space to transport people. I have the factory towing package and from what I've read, my towing max is 10,000 with the correct hitch. We don't have a trailer yet as we wanted to have a tow vehicle 1st so we could know our capabilities.

Ideally, we'll be buying a trailer early next year. In the meantime, i want to get the van ready along with any and all accessories/components we need. That way I can manage costs better and make sure we have everything. With that said,I have a few questions...


1. What should I do to the van in the meantime mechanically? New fluids? Change spark plugs or other routine maintenance items? Items I should have a mechanic check for and repair/replace as needed?Suggestions appreciated.

2. Suggestions on a weight distribution hitch. (That doesn't meant i change the factory ford hitch does it?) I know there will be many opinions on this but I'm open to hearing them. Especially if someone has 1st hand knowledge of it being used with the e350.

3. I like my cars "customized" but I can't go too crazy with this one as far as wheels go. Can anyone suggest some nice shiny wheels that will still be good for the towing task?

4. Any performance/efficiency mods I should do to the van? To gain power or be more fuel efficient?

5. And just confirm something as I look for our trailer. If the gvwr weight of the trailer is 9500lbs, then that's the number that means I'm good at because it's less than 10,000? I know there's some minor things that can change that but i don't anticipate maxing out the load capacity of the van. So if that's the case, then I'm good, right?


Sorry for the long introduction post but any help will be appreciated. I look forward to soon being able to post a picture of my rig. Until then, I'll just keep browsing and soaking up all the info I can.
2006 E350 V10
Travel Trailer-TBD
27 REPLIES 27

6door74
Explorer
Explorer
Grit dog wrote:
p220sigman wrote:
6door74 wrote:
I'd be lying of I said the noise aspect wasn't also part of my interest for mods. But that will be at bottom of priorities if that's all it will really amount to.


Don't get me wrong, I like a nice deep rumble, but when you are towing and that nice deep rumble is reflecting off of the front of the TT for hours drilling into your head, it loses its appeal quickly.


Yeah but how many vans have twice pipes anymore?? That'd be sweet!
Set of chrome 3" side pipes and a lumpy cam!!


I have a 91 Chevy G20 conversion van which i hoped would be my tow vehicle at first. After some quick research i quickly realized that would not be the case. I started it up the other day so i could prep it to sell and the 5.7 V8 rumble made me fall back in love with it.
2006 E350 V10
Travel Trailer-TBD

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
p220sigman wrote:
6door74 wrote:
I'd be lying of I said the noise aspect wasn't also part of my interest for mods. But that will be at bottom of priorities if that's all it will really amount to.


Don't get me wrong, I like a nice deep rumble, but when you are towing and that nice deep rumble is reflecting off of the front of the TT for hours drilling into your head, it loses its appeal quickly.


Yeah but how many vans have twice pipes anymore?? That'd be sweet!
Set of chrome 3" side pipes and a lumpy cam!!
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

LIKE2BUILD
Explorer
Explorer
p220sigman wrote:
6door74 wrote:
I'd be lying of I said the noise aspect wasn't also part of my interest for mods. But that will be at bottom of priorities if that's all it will really amount to.


Don't get me wrong, I like a nice deep rumble, but when you are towing and that nice deep rumble is reflecting off of the front of the TT for hours drilling into your head, it loses its appeal quickly.

Ditto. Towing puts the engine under constant load and will make that deep rumble bounce of the trailer and rattle your head. These days, most OEM exhaust systems work perfectly well and the need for large diameter, dual pipe, high flow systems isn't really necessary.

KJ
'14 Ram 2500|Crew Cab Long Bed|4X4|Cummins
Curt Q20 with Ram 5th Wheel Prep
2000 Crownline 205BR
1997 Ranger Comanche 461VS
'01 Polaris Virage TX PWC
'94 Polaris SLT750 PWC
3 Wonderful Sons (21, 15, & 13)
1 forgiving wife!!!

p220sigman
Explorer
Explorer
6door74 wrote:
I'd be lying of I said the noise aspect wasn't also part of my interest for mods. But that will be at bottom of priorities if that's all it will really amount to.


Don't get me wrong, I like a nice deep rumble, but when you are towing and that nice deep rumble is reflecting off of the front of the TT for hours drilling into your head, it loses its appeal quickly.

LIKE2BUILD
Explorer
Explorer
6door74 wrote:
@KJ,
What about exhaust and intake? Worthwhile difference or no? I'm not sure about the bolt pattern but I'll look into it. I do have a brake controller but I'm not sure who the manufacturer is. I'll look into that as well.

Most intake and exhaust performance systems don't really do a whole lot. Maybe you can increase performance in the upper RPM range a little, but how often will you run the engine that high while towing? I just don't see enough advantage to justify the cost of those systems.

If your brake controller is a cheap timer based system I'd suggest you swap it out for a Prodigy P2. This unit has an accelerometer so it applies the trailer brakes proportionally to your rate of deceleration. Like I said, I used mine for 11 years of very comfortable towing. Also, the controller will alert you if there are problems with your trailer brakes.

KJ
'14 Ram 2500|Crew Cab Long Bed|4X4|Cummins
Curt Q20 with Ram 5th Wheel Prep
2000 Crownline 205BR
1997 Ranger Comanche 461VS
'01 Polaris Virage TX PWC
'94 Polaris SLT750 PWC
3 Wonderful Sons (21, 15, & 13)
1 forgiving wife!!!

6door74
Explorer
Explorer
p220sigman wrote:
You shouldn't have to do too much other than regular maintenance. Whenever I get a used vehicle, I change all the fluids right off the bat (including brake fluid flush) just so I know where I'm starting from.

As far a the weight distribution, I wouldn't run out and buy anything until you settle on the TT. One, you may not get the correct weight bars and two, you may be able to include one as part of your TT purchase. Regardless of what kind you decide you want, make sure to set it up correctly or get someone who knows what they are doing to set it up.

If you feel the need to change wheels/tires, just be sure whatever you get has a high enough weight rating. Just because you can find some wheels that will fit, doesn't mean that they are a good fit for towing.

I wouldn't plan to do "power enhancements" especially on a modern gas engine. Without spending quite a bit of money, you aren't likely to see any real gains in power, just gain a lot of noise. When you look at the power curves for most "power enhancements", you don't really see much gain until the upper 1/3 to 1/4 of the RPM range.

I agree with starting by weighing the van. Anything else is just speculation. Base your calculations off of the weight. If you are really ambitious, load up the van like you would when camping to get a more accurate picture.

Above all, have fun. Remember, that is why you are doing this to start with.


Great info. Sounds like the fluid change/flush is gonna be #1. I've never really bouught a used car like this. They've either been new or just a real beater in which an oil change was all I did unless something else seemed problematic.

I was definitely considering getting the hitch in advance but I'll hold off now. I'll just read and watch videos so it's not completely foreign when I do. The wheels was just an idea in case someone else on the forum knew off hand a set of wheels which would fit the shiny bill bit still be equipped for the towing. I'd be lying of I said the noise aspect wasn't also part of my interest for mods. But that will be at bottom of priorities if that's all it will really amount to.

Thanks
2006 E350 V10
Travel Trailer-TBD

p220sigman
Explorer
Explorer
You shouldn't have to do too much other than regular maintenance. Whenever I get a used vehicle, I change all the fluids right off the bat (including brake fluid flush) just so I know where I'm starting from.

As far a the weight distribution, I wouldn't run out and buy anything until you settle on the TT. One, you may not get the correct weight bars and two, you may be able to include one as part of your TT purchase. Regardless of what kind you decide you want, make sure to set it up correctly or get someone who knows what they are doing to set it up.

If you feel the need to change wheels/tires, just be sure whatever you get has a high enough weight rating. Just because you can find some wheels that will fit, doesn't mean that they are a good fit for towing.

I wouldn't plan to do "power enhancements" especially on a modern gas engine. Without spending quite a bit of money, you aren't likely to see any real gains in power, just gain a lot of noise. When you look at the power curves for most "power enhancements", you don't really see much gain until the upper 1/3 to 1/4 of the RPM range.

I agree with starting by weighing the van. Anything else is just speculation. Base your calculations off of the weight. If you are really ambitious, load up the van like you would when camping to get a more accurate picture.

Above all, have fun. Remember, that is why you are doing this to start with.

6door74
Explorer
Explorer
BenK wrote:
Welcome and congratulations on getting the info first before purchasing the trailer for your risk management decision (AKA gambling)...you are an extremely rare one for sure !!!!


First, decide if you believe in the OEM's ratings system or not...If not, the academic and do whatever...If yes, then continue to gather the information you will need to make your own decision.

I'll not every give the "sure you can"...or whatever many come here asking...only wanting to hear what they want to hear...but provide the metrics for you, the OP, to make up your decision(s)

Gather these for your TV and a full sized van is an excellent one. NOTE that all of the info from the OEM has a "R" in it and it references RATING

GVWR
GCWR (not many believe this, as it is a fairly new rating)
GAWR, both front and rear

Pretty much forget about the MTWR (Max Tow Weight Rating), as it is derived from a 'curb' vehicle. Meaning a stripper model with only one option...the tow option...and one 150 lb driver. AC, power doors, power windows, etc are NOT part of that MTWR basis

Best to go out and weigh your TV as is and fully loaded ready to tow. That includes people, pets, cargo, etc, etc

Then you can do the simple math to figure out what 'your' TV is rated to tow. Typically 1K or more less than the listed MTWR

Decide what kind of WD Hitch system you like. They all work, but critical is how they are installed and SET UP

ON that, learn how the various dial/knobs/etc adjusts for the WD Hitch you decide on. There really isn't a one size fits all on that, IMHO

The goal of the WD Hitch system is to return the TV and the whole setup to a condition for that worst day out there when Mr Murphy crosses your path...either you have the proper sized and setup or not spot on...there will be no time to go back to the store for bigger/better...nor re-adjust the setup...

All things designed and engineered are not for the good days out there, but for that worst day when Mr Murphy crosses your path...also the Ratings are in reference to the OEM's specifications for 'that' TV. It has also been certified to have passed by your OEM to meet agency mandated testing requirements

There is a wealth of info here and on the Internet...but...learn to weed out what works for you vs stuff that won't help...

Goal for the WD Hitch system and the choice(s) of TV & Trailer is to have the final setup with the TV settled to whatever the OEM manual says (old days was even drop, now with the so many different suspension/etc they are different form OEM to OEM...even from model to model)...that the trailer tongue weight is around 13%-15% (I prefer highest, as it tows better and resists sway better), that the trailer is level at it's highest pointing and I prefer pointing slightly down

Then the components like the class of tires (on both TV and Trailer), PSI in them, etc, etc, etc

Good luck and post back on how it goes


Thank you for the info. I definitely don't want to just dive in blind. For safety reasons and for financial reasons! As you can see I'm still pretty early in this process so as I learn more and see more, I'll eventually move foward. And I'll definitely be sure to post back as I move through the process.

On a side note to everyone..... I love the quick replies! It's very helpful and a good sign of people's willingness to help. I'm not one who comes to get the answers I want to hear. I just look for objective (and even subjective) answers based on 1st hand knowledge, facts, and even experience. I may not always agree with some things but all things provide me with info to take into consideration.

Thanks
2006 E350 V10
Travel Trailer-TBD

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Forgot to add:

Gather the trailer's ratings info too

GVWR
GAWR

Forget about it's "dry" weight...it is the stripper model before the dealer adds much of the optional stuff

But, that 'dry' weight and the 'dry' tongue weight provides a vision into what the loaded tongue weight percentage range will be

Careful of the 10% tongue weights...mostly for a higher MTWR for the TV and is NOT a good trailer setup...as it will NOT tow as well as one with a higher tongue percentage...not absolute...just from my experience (hands on and helping others in the church and over the Internet)
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

6door74
Explorer
Explorer
Grit dog wrote:
Load 10 people, all their gear, loaded high profile 30' plus trailer weighing in close to 5 tons does not sound like the makings of a good trip. Sounds like the Griswold family vacation.
Plus that's a lot of people and a lot of trailer an a lot of responsibility for someone inexperienced in towing trailers.
I'm totally serious when I say get a good pickup, reasonable sized camper, a tent and make someone haul 3 or 4 people in another car.


Thank you for your input. As I said earlier driving with 10 or even the full 12 would not be the norm. We wanted a van to have more capabilities for an everyday use such as filling it up with people in the event it was necessary as well as tag alongs when we get a camper. A pick up would not do that and driving multiple vehicles (meaning my wife and I) kind if defeats the purpose of the whole thing. That said, we're not talking about 10 full size adults, their weight and they're belongings.

As for towing experience and responsibility, there's there's only 1 way to get that. I've solicited information to help with the equipment aspect of that to ensure I'm not lacking there. The information on the type of camper and suggested weights is helpful as well. Lastly, I wouldn't load up everyone and everything on day 1 and hit the road looking to do 80mph. I'd work my way up to a level of comfort to include distance driven.

Again, I thank you for your input but the van is purchased and anything we get will be based on that tow vehicle. In a few years ideally, we'll revisit all equipment.
2006 E350 V10
Travel Trailer-TBD

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
Load 10 people, all their gear, loaded high profile 30' plus trailer weighing in close to 5 tons does not sound like the makings of a good trip. Sounds like the Griswold family vacation.
Plus that's a lot of people and a lot of trailer an a lot of responsibility for someone inexperienced in towing trailers.
I'm totally serious when I say get a good pickup, reasonable sized camper, a tent and make someone haul 3 or 4 people in another car.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Welcome and congratulations on getting the info first before purchasing the trailer for your risk management decision (AKA gambling)...you are an extremely rare one for sure !!!!


First, decide if you believe in the OEM's ratings system or not...If not, the academic and do whatever...If yes, then continue to gather the information you will need to make your own decision.

I'll not every give the "sure you can"...or whatever many come here asking...only wanting to hear what they want to hear...but provide the metrics for you, the OP, to make up your decision(s)

Gather these for your TV and a full sized van is an excellent one. NOTE that all of the info from the OEM has a "R" in it and it references RATING

GVWR
GCWR (not many believe this, as it is a fairly new rating)
GAWR, both front and rear

Pretty much forget about the MTWR (Max Tow Weight Rating), as it is derived from a 'curb' vehicle. Meaning a stripper model with only one option...the tow option...and one 150 lb driver. AC, power doors, power windows, etc are NOT part of that MTWR basis

Best to go out and weigh your TV as is and fully loaded ready to tow. That includes people, pets, cargo, etc, etc

Then you can do the simple math to figure out what 'your' TV is rated to tow. Typically 1K or more less than the listed MTWR

Decide what kind of WD Hitch system you like. They all work, but critical is how they are installed and SET UP

ON that, learn how the various dial/knobs/etc adjusts for the WD Hitch you decide on. There really isn't a one size fits all on that, IMHO

The goal of the WD Hitch system is to return the TV and the whole setup to a condition for that worst day out there when Mr Murphy crosses your path...either you have the proper sized and setup or not spot on...there will be no time to go back to the store for bigger/better...nor re-adjust the setup...

All things designed and engineered are not for the good days out there, but for that worst day when Mr Murphy crosses your path...also the Ratings are in reference to the OEM's specifications for 'that' TV. It has also been certified to have passed by your OEM to meet agency mandated testing requirements

There is a wealth of info here and on the Internet...but...learn to weed out what works for you vs stuff that won't help...

Goal for the WD Hitch system and the choice(s) of TV & Trailer is to have the final setup with the TV settled to whatever the OEM manual says (old days was even drop, now with the so many different suspension/etc they are different form OEM to OEM...even from model to model)...that the trailer tongue weight is around 13%-15% (I prefer highest, as it tows better and resists sway better), that the trailer is level at it's highest pointing and I prefer pointing slightly down

Then the components like the class of tires (on both TV and Trailer), PSI in them, etc, etc, etc

Good luck and post back on how it goes
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

6door74
Explorer
Explorer
jim1521 wrote:
6door74 wrote:
jarata1 wrote:
The towing weight will be your issue do research on this board it isn't just the weight the van can pull,your probably looking at a trailer that's about 8,000 pounds


I'll play with the numbers and see. Thanks for the reply. By saying 8,000lbs, you mean the gross weight of the trailer or dry weight? I know I've read to forget about the dry weight, but I'm just making sure I understand you. The trailers I've given most consideration to all come in under 8,000lbs dry weight.


Sorry, didn't realize I used the same number twice.

Change my example to the van's GVWR as 8000 lbs, and the trailer as being 9,000. Those are the max amount of weight that the vehicles can weight - wet or dry. Regardless of what you put in the van, it cannot exceed 8,000 lbs, and regardless of what you put in the trailer, it cannot exceed 9,000 lbs wet or dry.


Ok, I think I'm ok based on the trailers I've been looking at. They all had gvwr around 9,000lbs so I would be under that regardless.
2006 E350 V10
Travel Trailer-TBD

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
A 30 foot TT will be 35 feet total. Have you ever driven a TT of that length? Pulled by a long van? Try one before buying one. Next, where do you want to camp? Are there any size limitations in your favorite CGs or possible favorites? Buying too big a TT will freeze you out of those locations.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad