water pumps

[bzgenius]

I am just about to put the camper back together but wanted to check for water line leaks and low and behold the dang pump wont work. It sounds good and when I took it apart nothing looks worn out or out of place so I guess its just to old and been sitting to long. It is a shurflo 2088-403-144 and I did find replacements online but some questions for you all first.

1# Is there a reason to put something better in or just replace with original?

2# Should I replace it all or just the plastic pump part since the motor works fine?

Positive note is the hot water heater fired right up, the fridge works and the holding tank doesn't leak. I will be glad when this project is done and usable.

[HMS_Beagle]

I've replaced them with the variable speed pump from Jabsco. The cost more, but don't pulsate, varying the motor speed to keep the pressure near constant. For most use it runs slowly, and is quieter.

[AnEv942]

bzgenius wrote:
The new pump part on the front of the motor is $20 and all new is $70. I just don't want to pay for the same if there is a better pump to buy. Also nothing in this camper was used that much and some things not at all so the dc motor may be just as good as new but I have no idea. May just buy all new and save the motor as a spare.

The accumulator sounds good like d3500ram talked about but I would just have a small drip at a faucet and waste water with my luck.

IF it were the top for $20 (basically lower body with switch and check valve) I'd replace, 'possibly' might fix, though check valve parts can be had for 10-15, again if actually problem.
More than that, an entire rebuild kit 94-236-08 top assembly (rest of the parts less motor) more like $50-60 negates the effort as pumps 70ish. (Adventurehas 3.0gpm 60 shipped..

Better pumps are more cost- not needing more GPM (2.5) never saw need to upgrade or recommend.

Since your in there I also cant recommend an accumulator enough, never thought about it feeding a leaking faucet. Barring that, using flex lines on both sides of the pump will seriously quite it and stop transfer of noise thru hard lines.

[Kayteg1]

They sell rebuild kit for brand pumps too. Most of the time the rubber check valves dry out.
The better pumps cost $500 if you want to research West Marine.

[bzgenius]

I have never owned a camper before so that is why I asked if there was something better chuck and di. Thanks

[covered_wagon]

If pumps not working make sure you purged all the air out of the hot water heater before heating up the water heater. You need the water pump to run with hot water faucet turned on to purge out the air or you could damage the water heater.

Just like you need do on a house water heater too.

[Chuck_and_Di]

I'm not sure anybody actually read the questions before replying, so I'll take a shot at it.
A "better" pump would only give you more pressure. If you were happy with it before, then there's really no value to replacing more than just the plastic pump.
These things almost always outlive the camper in my experience. The most likely cause of the failure was the pump running a long time without water to pump. They tend to overheat and melt when that happens.

[ticki2]

If the pump runs but does not pump water there is a very good chance there is an air leak between the tank and the pump which will not allow it to prime . Check that line carefully first . A new pump will not correct that problem .

[SidecarFlip]

I'd put in a new one. I go through at least one every season on one of my spray rigs. Same pump. I get them from ASC ( online) or Tractor Supply, whichever is cheaper.

[corvettekent]

Do you have power at the pump? It would suck to buy a new pump and then find out that you have no power to it.

[MitchF150]

My pump is original from 2002 and is mounted on the floor and the tank is under the floor, so it has to pull UP from the tank..

It holds pressure for DAYS too.. Meaning, I can pressure up the system with the pump.. Come in several days later and flip the switch and it does not trigger to run.. Still has full pressure..

Just saying this to say that just cause a pump has not been 'used' much, but is around 10 years old, can mean all kinds of things can be wrong with it..

Sure, you can chase around the problem, and if you have the time and patience to do that, great...

But, I'd just be buying a new one and move on to the next item on the list of things to do... 😉

Good luck!

Mitch

[bzgenius]

Mine has a 10" hose from the tank to the pump and then a 10" hose T'd in to the cold water line out of the pump, nothing fancy so the pump part has to be bad. I am on board with replacing it all but still don't have an answer on whether to buy a different pump or just go with oem.

[RoyB]

My water pump on my 2008 Starcraft 14 R/T POPUP trailer has a valve with a short hose between the pump and the fresh water tank. This short hose is used to stick down inside a bottle of the pink stuff when winterizing the lines.

If your setup is like this you may have the valve in the wrong position and your pump is pulling against the closed off short hose.. My short hose has a cap on its end..

This setup on mine is also a great way to test my water pump as I can stick this short hose down into a bucket of water and the pump then will pick that up just fine showing the pump is working...

my setup looks like this google photo...



My POPUP Trailer water flow is similar to this water flow diagram... My unit only has a Fresh water tank...


google image

Roy ken

[bzgenius]

The new pump part on the front of the motor is $20 and all new is $70. I just don't want to pay for the same if there is a better pump to buy. Also nothing in this camper was used that much and some things not at all so the dc motor may be just as good as new but I have no idea. May just buy all new and save the motor as a spare.

The accumulator sounds good like d3500ram talked about but I would just have a small drip at a faucet and waste water with my luck.

[MitchF150]

Yeah, just get a new pump if that's the case... 😉