โAug-28-2013 08:34 AM
โAug-28-2013 04:00 PM
โAug-28-2013 03:57 PM
โAug-28-2013 03:12 PM
mlts22 wrote:
In true sub-freezing temperatures, don't risk it. Dump all tanks, drain/bypass the water heater (replacing the anode rod if it is a Suburban model), blow out the lines, and then add the pink stuff so it comes out all faucets... yes even the outside shower and toilet. Then add antifreeze to traps/drains and some on the toilet for the seal. Roadtrek uses this method.
I live in Texas, so I can get away with not having to be 100% sure. I run some cheap vodka through the faucets (wholesale, bottom-shelf vodka is cheaper than RV antifreeze here), blow the lines with an air compressor, then call it done. Even 5% alcohol in any remaining water will lower its freezing point to the upper 20s, which is good enough. The advantage of this method is that de-winterizing is quick and there is no oily taste/smell stuck in the lines.
โAug-28-2013 02:23 PM
โAug-28-2013 02:18 PM
CavemanCharlie wrote:korbe wrote:
We do both. Not much more effort and my comfort level goes up a bit when it's really cold out.
Me too.
โAug-28-2013 01:32 PM
โAug-28-2013 01:10 PM
โAug-28-2013 12:59 PM
โAug-28-2013 12:19 PM
โAug-28-2013 10:57 AM
โAug-28-2013 10:45 AM
23hitman wrote:
How many PSI (approximately) is ok to use for the air method?
And for the traps, do you just pour some AF into the sink?
Thanks (the Newbie RVer)
โAug-28-2013 10:39 AM
korbe wrote:
We do both. Not much more effort and my comfort level goes up a bit when it's really cold out.
โAug-28-2013 10:31 AM
โAug-28-2013 10:25 AM
downtheroad wrote:
The air vs anti-freeze is a never ending fall-winter debate here on the Forum.
I carefully and thoroughly use the air method with anti freeze in the traps....BUT our winters are not brutal and are generally mild.
Anti-freeze is a sure thing, but takes more work in the spring to rinse/flush out of the system.
โAug-28-2013 09:55 AM