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Winterization Air vs Chemicals...... Your 2 cents please

23hitman
Explorer
Explorer
First timer

Looking for the experienced voices to throw in your 2 cents as to using the RV anti-freeze vs blowing out the lines with air (like the sprinkler system @ home).

The TT will be stored outside in northern Utah so it will see brutal conditions behind its tarp coverings and cold temperatures.

Thanks in advance!
41 REPLIES 41

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
If you have a black tank rinsing system, don't forget to winterize that also! Mine has not worked for the past several years due to that oversight.:o:M
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi,

I use both.

I blow then do antifreeze then blow again. I catch as much of the antifreeze as I can and reuse it.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
mlts22 wrote:
In true sub-freezing temperatures, don't risk it. Dump all tanks, drain/bypass the water heater (replacing the anode rod if it is a Suburban model), blow out the lines, and then add the pink stuff so it comes out all faucets... yes even the outside shower and toilet. Then add antifreeze to traps/drains and some on the toilet for the seal. Roadtrek uses this method.

I live in Texas, so I can get away with not having to be 100% sure. I run some cheap vodka through the faucets (wholesale, bottom-shelf vodka is cheaper than RV antifreeze here), blow the lines with an air compressor, then call it done. Even 5% alcohol in any remaining water will lower its freezing point to the upper 20s, which is good enough. The advantage of this method is that de-winterizing is quick and there is no oily taste/smell stuck in the lines.


and to the icemaker, at least up to the solenoid.
bumpy

mlts22
Explorer
Explorer
In true sub-freezing temperatures, don't risk it. Dump all tanks, drain/bypass the water heater (replacing the anode rod if it is a Suburban model), blow out the lines, and then add the pink stuff so it comes out all faucets... yes even the outside shower and toilet. Then add antifreeze to traps/drains and some on the toilet for the seal. Roadtrek uses this method.

I live in Texas, so I can get away with not having to be 100% sure. I run some cheap vodka through the faucets (wholesale, bottom-shelf vodka is cheaper than RV antifreeze here), blow the lines with an air compressor, then call it done. Even 5% alcohol in any remaining water will lower its freezing point to the upper 20s, which is good enough. The advantage of this method is that de-winterizing is quick and there is no oily taste/smell stuck in the lines.

Hondavalk
Explorer II
Explorer II
CavemanCharlie wrote:
korbe wrote:
We do both. Not much more effort and my comfort level goes up a bit when it's really cold out.


Me too.


Same here

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
assuming you have a water heater bypass, it only takes 1 1/2 gal or so of antifreeze to winterize. cheap INsurance IMHO.
bumpy

BigDaddyHfx
Explorer
Explorer
With only one years experience I blew out the lines and then added AF. I'd do it again this year. AF is cheap, fixing a burst line could be expensive or complicated.

PAThwacker
Explorer
Explorer
Air followed by pink, and a large quantity of pink in gray/black /low point.
2015 Keystone Springdale Summerland 257rl
Tow vehicle: 2003 GMC K1500 ext lb
Previous: 14 years of 3 popups and a hybrid tt

wgriswold
Explorer
Explorer
I blow out with air (40psi). Then I introduce antifreeze through the pump pick up designed to winterize the pipes. I do this because I worry about the pipe between the pump and the place where the outlet pipe connects with the city water intake, which would not blow out with the air.

I suppose I could disconnect the outlet side of the pump but I have never done that.
2016 Ram 2500 4x4 Laramie
Arctic Fox 25Y

schlep1967
Nomad
Nomad
I do anti-freeze. We don't drink out of the system so after draining and flushing some fresh water through, most of the smell is gone. Then I run some bleach through the system for sanitizing. That takes care of all the antifreeze smell. The air way will work if you get all the water out. Just a small amount of water in a faucet can cause it to crack. Running antifreeze through it will displace the water. Basically air can work, antifreeze will work.
2021 Chevy Silverado LTZ 3500 Diesel
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Pull-Rite Super Glide 4500

CavemanCharlie
Explorer II
Explorer II
23hitman wrote:
How many PSI (approximately) is ok to use for the air method?

And for the traps, do you just pour some AF into the sink?

Thanks (the Newbie RVer)


I only use about 40 PSI to blow with so that way I'm sure not to blow off a line.

I pour a lot of AF into the kitchen sink, bathrooms sink, bathtub, and toilet. Remember you have to use enough antifreeze in the traps to displace all of the water. And, don't forget to drain your tanks after you do this because the water you are displacing is going into them. Then I add a little more antifreeze to the tanks to keep the dump valves lubricated through out the winter.

CavemanCharlie
Explorer II
Explorer II
korbe wrote:
We do both. Not much more effort and my comfort level goes up a bit when it's really cold out.


Me too.

CincyGus
Explorer II
Explorer II
I used AF for 3 years and the last two have used air with AF only in the traps.
Take your time and don't forget anything, including the outdoor shower.

I pump 60 psi through my lines without issue. Open one faucet at a time until it blows sputter free for 20-30 seconds. Move to the next. When done, I drain the low point drains and hot water heater and then I pour about 2 cups of AF down each sink, the shower and in the toilet. Come Spring, I sanitize and go.
2015 GMC 2500 Denali Crewcab 4x4
2019 Forest River Wolfpack 23pack15

Hope your travels are safe and the friendships made camping are lasting.

DarylSue
Explorer
Explorer
downtheroad wrote:
The air vs anti-freeze is a never ending fall-winter debate here on the Forum.

I carefully and thoroughly use the air method with anti freeze in the traps....BUT our winters are not brutal and are generally mild.

Anti-freeze is a sure thing, but takes more work in the spring to rinse/flush out of the system.


We do both......air and AF in the traps......we live in upstate NY.....no problems.
Daryl/Sue, part time kids and 2 GC

2013 Jayco Jay Flight 28BHBE
2012 Chevy Silverado CC 4x4
w/HD tow pkg.
Voyager BC
Reese Dual Cam/WD

fickman
Explorer
Explorer
If I were where you are, I'd lean toward doing the whole anti-freeze application in the lines.

Where I am, winter is for camping! With our previous TT, I would typically blow the lines and put anti-freeze in the traps when we unpacked from our camping trip between Christmas and New Year's.

I don't even have to do that with our current PUP, which lives in the garage anyway.
DW, DD (2007), DS (2008), DD (2010), DD (2011), and me

2010 Chevrolet Express 3500 LT
6.0 liter V8 SWB 12-passenger van

2008 Fleetwood Utah Popup Camper