3d printed water fill adaptor

[portscanner]

I use my 3d printer to create accessories and replacement parts. I designed a water fill adaptor so that the water hose wont keep falling out as I fill the fresh water tank. If you have a 3d printer, you can download the needed files from Thingiverse and and make one for yourself.


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3406756

[2112]

LittleBill wrote:
how come your not designing this?

I have nothing to reference or measure. I do not own this type of water fill. Besides, you're having fun doing it

[2112]

Glad you figured it out.

I've spent the last hour or so reading up on Fusion. Too much like Sketchup and TinkerCAD for me.

[LittleBill]

2112 wrote:
THIS may or may not help

Fusion is weird sometimes, you can do an offset plane off an angle plane, but not the other way around, unless you create the construction line first. I'm good now. I like this better anyway then draft, as I can prolly mirror the other side.


how come your not designing this? also fyi the hose thread is also different then mine, hose thread doesn't have a taper and requires a washer, the original does not match hose thread at all.

[2112]

THIS may or may not help

[LittleBill]

2112 wrote:
Just read up of Fusion 360. First create an offset plane then use that as a reference for an angle plane. Offset plane sets the reference offset, angle plane sets the angle, build on the angle plane.

Yea that doesn't work in Fusion. well not directly, but I tried this initially, and failed, but got it now. you need to create an offset plane, then create a construction line, then create the angle plane based on the construction line, which reference the offset plane.

wow. that said I was also very close using a draft as well.

getting there.

[2112]

Just read up of Fusion 360. First create an offset plane then use that as a reference for an angle plane. Offset plane sets the reference offset, angle plane sets the angle, build on the angle plane.

Planes and axis are free so use them at will.

[2112]

LittleBill wrote:
The problem right now, is I don't know how to make the ramp yet. Once I learn how to do it, it should work fine.

I will provide an update once I figure this out.

Not knowing what tool you are using I can only reference Creo. In Creo you would need to set an angular offset datum plane. You do this by clicking a surface or plane parallel to your desired plane and select plane. Then hold ctrl and click a second surface or plane that is at a different angle. The new plane becomes visible at this point. Then you just define your angle and offset.

That's 90% worthless information if using a different tool, but you still need to create an angular offset plane in reference to something else.

[LittleBill]

K_and_I wrote:
I wish I knew correct terminology, it would make a response much easier. I tried the one 2112 showed above, but it wouldn't work on my fill hatch without modification. My camper uses a hatch that looks like this one:
Clicky
Taking material off of the portion labeled in red didn't help. I finally chalked the locking portion of the hatch on the camper and put the adapter against it. It appeared that the locking flange on the adapter was too close to the cap of the adapter (sorry again for poor terminology). I took a brass wire brush in a dremel and removed some of the inside of the locking flange, and was able to get it to go on. I can't test it yet as it is too cold here to be dealing with water and hoses, but I think it's going to work.

I am designing one, i have it 90% complete. the issue, is the cap thread is ramped/pitches, the original design in this post, is not ramped, this is the issue. The problem right now, is I don't know how to make the ramp yet. Once I learn how to do it, it should work fine.

I will provide an update once I figure this out.

[K_and_I]

I wish I knew correct terminology, it would make a response much easier. I tried the one 2112 showed above, but it wouldn't work on my fill hatch without modification. My camper uses a hatch that looks like this one:
Clicky
Taking material off of the portion labeled in red didn't help. I finally chalked the locking portion of the hatch on the camper and put the adapter against it. It appeared that the locking flange on the adapter was too close to the cap of the adapter (sorry again for poor terminology). I took a brass wire brush in a dremel and removed some of the inside of the locking flange, and was able to get it to go on. I can't test it yet as it is too cold here to be dealing with water and hoses, but I think it's going to work.

[SteveB]

Thanks for bringing this post back to the top. I'm going to try it out. Going to chance it with no supports to see what happens. I use Hatchbox PLA.

[LittleBill]

so this design doesn't work well?

what is the issue? the locking ramp? in red?

are all the water inlets the same? is my 2000 era class c the the same?

i played with this design a bit, its not that difficult to make

[valhalla360]

NMDriver2 wrote:
I use a cut off piece of garden hose about 1 ft long with the female end to screw onto a regular male hose end. I just put the cut end in the fill tube all the way to the connection and it has never come out under pressure. BTW I am pushing 80-90 psi through my hose.

But then how can you convince the wife you need a 3D printer?

But yeah, you beat me to it. That's exactly what we use.

[Bobbo]

Bobbo wrote:
If it is now coming with a quick connect built in, I am glad I bought mine before the change. FWIW, I used it today for the very first time. Worked like a champ.

I am quoting myself, because after about 10 uses, I threw it away. It was very hard to get on and was chewing up the water inlet. I was afraid it would damage the inlet to the point that the cap would no longer attach securely.

[2112]

I didn't analyze why it didn't fit well because I was in a hurry and I was wasting a salesman's time. It was difficult to line up and would only turn in a very short distance.

Determine what needs to be removed before you go hacking on it. My guess is sand down the faying surface a little and maybe cut a chamfer or fillet on the mounting tab leading edges. This is PETG. It's hard but workable. 180 grit wet sanding would probably work well on the face and an Xacto blade to work off the tab edge if needed. Maybe it just needs the face worked down so try that first.

[2112]

K_and_I wrote:

So, are you interested in printing one for me?;)

PM me your mailing address and I'll see what it takes to mail this one to you. You'll have to whittle on it to get it to fit right.