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Battery down to 9.7v ??

jornvango
Explorer II
Explorer II
We have one 12v battery in a travel trailer. After driving for 5-6 hours on Friday, we boondocked in Texas. 40s at night, 50s during the day. We only used 1 led light in the evening and the water pump a few times. The fridge is on all the time (battery/propane).

Yesterday Saturday, in the morning when we used the water pump, it kept rattling away as if it didn't have enough power. Fridge and lights worked.

We plugged in the portable 100w solar panel. The charge controller read 9.7v! After a few hours of solar charging, it went up to 12.2v but by the time the sun set, it showed 11.57v even though nothing but the fridge was on in the camper.

This morning (Sunday), when we plugged in the solar, it read 9.7v. Water pump kept rattling away after we washed our hands and the led lights were dimmer with the pump on.

Some facts:
- flooded battery dated 2013
- type marine (it shows cranking amps on the label)
- fluid level is ok

Is the battery dead / beyond repair? How come the fridge and lights still work?
Based on my limited knowledge, a battery shouldn't be below 12.3v ... Based on the past experiences, one night of light usage after driving, the battery should still be around 12.6v...
42 REPLIES 42

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
Measure the battery voltage without anything running and the truck not plugged in. Then connect the truck, start the engine and measure the battery voltage again.

If the voltage didn't change your truck is not trying to charge the battery. Maybe the fuse/relay is not installed or damaged.

If the voltage increased, it's time for a new battery.
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

azrving
Explorer
Explorer
It won't do any good to replace the battery if the new one isn't charged properly. Not that your battery can't be weak or damaged but I'd try to charge the battery and see what's going on. Why put a new battery in and beat the snot out of it from the get go?

That 100 amp panel is nothing to a dead dead battery. Obviously it's all about amp hours used vs ability to return them plus a penalty so depending on your style that 100 watt panel could well be not enough.

jornvango
Explorer II
Explorer II
MitchF150 wrote:
What are the volts when the truck is plugged in and supposed to be charging the RV battery?


Mitch, I'll look at it tomorrow.

Is there an easy way to see what the truck is providing through the 7-way trailer plug? I found a diagram that tells me which of the 7 is supposed to provide 12V charging. Can I hold a multi-meter in there? (I have one of the simple Radioshack ones that have the red and black cables to touch to the battery for testing)

free_radical
Explorer
Explorer
SoundGuy wrote:
Chainwright wrote:
I'm thinking if your battery is 5 yrs old, it's pretty much on it's last leg. The DW and I just changed out our 4-5 yr old battery on our cars too. They gave out on us. Just be safe change your battery. JMHO.


My Silverado had an AC Delco Professional Plus battery with a 42 month, full replacement value warranty. It pooched on me just weeks after that 42 month expiry :R so I anted up for the Group 48 AGM recommended for my truck, sold by Canadian Tire with a 5 yr warranty. I'd consider 5 yrs out of any battery pretty respectable.

They must be making them much worse then back then.

I had 85 Chevy truck then and Delco batery lasted me 9 years..

My 08 Silverado batt died in couple years,but it was my fault as I left 12V Engel cooler on few times with engine off.

My 2nd batt lasted 5 years.

SidecarFlip
Explorer
Explorer
SoundGuy wrote:
midnightsadie wrote:
its time for a new battery. anything under 12.8 is not good and its 5years old.


A fully charged flooded battery with no load on it should read in the 12.72 volt range, under load voltage will obviously drop, and the greater the load the greater the voltage drop. One can easily see voltage drop into the high 11s under heavy load but once that load is removed voltage will bounce back. Ideally you don't want to draw a flooded deep cycle battery down any more than ~ 50%, meaning it's unloaded voltage should drop no lower than ~ 12 to 12.1 volts. From the OP's description it would seem his battery is due for replacement.


Sounds to me like it's past time to replace. IOW dead as a doornail.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

mobeewan
Explorer
Explorer
Johnspon Controls makes the Walmart Everstart batteries. I called JC and asked if they made true deep cycle batteries for WM. They said the ones with the letters DC in the Everstart battery number were deep cycle Even though they listed CCA. They said the ones with MS in the Everstart number were hybrid Marine starting batteries.

Advance Auto Parts uses DC vs M on their battery part nos.

I bought a pair the Advance Auto group 24 deep cycles because they list a higher reserve capacity on their beep cycle batteries. I haven't confirmed it yet.

These are the ones I bought to fit the trailer tongue.
Advance Auto Deep Cycle Marine/RV battery part no. 24DC-1.

This is their Marine starting battery.Advance Auto Deep Cycle Marine starting battery part no. 24M-1

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
Chainwright wrote:
I'm thinking if your battery is 5 yrs old, it's pretty much on it's last leg. The DW and I just changed out our 4-5 yr old battery on our cars too. They gave out on us. Just be safe change your battery. JMHO.


My Silverado had an AC Delco Professional Plus battery with a 42 month, full replacement value warranty. It pooched on me just weeks after that 42 month expiry :R so I anted up for the Group 48 AGM recommended for my truck, sold by Canadian Tire with a 5 yr warranty. I'd consider 5 yrs out of any battery pretty respectable.
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

MitchF150
Explorer III
Explorer III
What are the volts when the truck is plugged in and supposed to be charging the RV battery?

Mitch
2013 F150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab Max Tow Egoboost 3.73 gears #7700 GVWR #1920 payload. 2019 Rockwood Mini Lite 2511S.

jornvango
Explorer II
Explorer II
We just arrived at our next destination after driving for 6 hours. Battery level shows 9V

Looks like we need to look for a place to order a replacement on the road.

Chainwright
Explorer
Explorer
jornvango wrote:
We have one 12v battery in a travel trailer. After driving for 5-6 hours on Friday, we boondocked in Texas. 40s at night, 50s during the day. We only used 1 led light in the evening and the water pump a few times. The fridge is on all the time (battery/propane).

Yesterday Saturday, in the morning when we used the water pump, it kept rattling away as if it didn't have enough power. Fridge and lights worked.

We plugged in the portable 100w solar panel. The charge controller read 9.7v! After a few hours of solar charging, it went up to 12.2v but by the time the sun set, it showed 11.57v even though nothing but the fridge was on in the camper.

This morning (Sunday), when we plugged in the solar, it read 9.7v. Water pump kept rattling away after we washed our hands and the led lights were dimmer with the pump on.

Some facts:
- flooded battery dated 2013
- type marine (it shows cranking amps on the label)
- fluid level is ok

Is the battery dead / beyond repair? How come the fridge and lights still work?
Based on my limited knowledge, a battery shouldn't be below 12.3v ... Based on the past experiences, one night of light usage after driving, the battery should still be around 12.6v...


I'm thinking if your battery is 5 yrs old, it's pretty much on it's last leg. The DW and I just changed out our 4-5 yr old battery on our cars too. They gave out on us. Just be safe change your battery. JMHO.

theoldwizard1
Explorer
Explorer
time2roll wrote:
Not going to find a real deep cycle in these sizes at a common retail store. Need to go to a battery distributor that carries Trojan, US Battery, Rolls etc and they will be a bit more $$.

Many Costco/Sam's Club carry the 6v GC2 that is made for deep cycle at a good value (need 2).

A Trojan or Rolls in Group 27 or Group 31 will be a LOT more money. Likely TWICE the price of "marine" battery !

Trojan DOES make a Group 31 deep cycle AGM battery, but as stated, it would probably have to special ordered.

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
jake2250 wrote:
Also by doing it online you won't get charged a "Core Fee", you just go in and show your receipt and your good!


That sounds like you did not take your old battery in for "exchange", which is what the core fee is for; you get that refunded when you take the old one in......and if you have it with you at the time of purchase, you don't pay that "fee" in the first place.

What DID you do with the old battery ??
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

jplante4
Explorer
Explorer
This chart shows the relationship between CCA and RC (reserve capacity). RC is minutes at a 25 amp hour discharge rate.
Jerry & Jeanne
1996 Safari Sahara 3530 - 'White Tiger'
CAT 3126/Allison 6 speed/Magnum Chassis
2014 Equinox AWD / Blue Ox

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have good luck with the WM 27DC and 29DC. I can watch TV for hours on the 27DC. The 29DC will last even longer
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

jake2250
Explorer
Explorer
I read a battery thread on a fishing forum,, You can order a true deep cycle trolling motor battery online at wal mart, and then pick it up at the store you select,, Also by doing it online you won't get charged a "Core Fee", you just go in and show your receipt and your good!
Two years ago I did this for trolling motor on my kayak! Saved me $12!
I ordered the group 29 batt!