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Using propane heater exhaust as a outside heat source?

Fleetwood_Coupl
Explorer
Explorer
Has anyone experimented with piping the propane heat exhaust under their class A for an additional heat source for the basement and keeping the main floor warmer?
My Idea here was to use dryer vent hose to route it under the rv to the desired locations.
obvious concerns our CO2 gasses, we do have an alarm for that. Or would it even be worth the time or expense to pursue it.

thanks
2006 Fleetwood Expedition 38n
300 Cat Engine (MP-8 Performance Module)
Retired US Navy SCPO
29 REPLIES 29

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
With the typical efficiency of RV furnaces running about 80%, not a lot worse than many residential furnaces, the heat loss isn't as great as it seems.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate

Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Explorer II
The simple reason RV furnaces are not more efficient is space- you need a large heat exchanger to extract more heat from the exhaust- if you didn't mind sacrificing an entire closet for the furnace, you could get that 90%+.

Other than the obvious CO issue, the combustion air intake and exhaust are adjacent to each other so that any wind will affect intake and exhaust equally. If you move one or the other, you make it much easier for high wind to affect the flame, with bad results.
-- Chris Bryant

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
It's basically a good way to get CO poisoning when a leak develops in your piping system.

My bet is the average RV furnace runs less than 5days per year so not a lot of benefit in manufacturers trying for exotic high efficiency ideas that add cost and take up valuable space.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
I don't think I would mess with the outside outlet of the Furnace... I would put more effort is doing a positive air flow thru the cabinets and other areas by installing pass-thru air vents and the use of a temperature controlled vent fan.

In my OFF-ROAD CAMPER all of the cabinets are lined up around the walls of the trailer. I have added a small vent between all of the inside cabinets walls. Having a large vent close to my access door door I can circulate air through the whole thing... Adding a thermostatic controlled blower works wonders here... This way I don't have to open cabinet doors to allow heating of water pipes etc...

Got this idea from one of the full time RV'ers Don or Mena...

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
transit 94 wrote:
Have you some one in mind to collect insurance on your death.Please do not even think of such a thing. Carbon monoxide is a killer it is quite but it gets the job done.


CO is a quiet killer...silent and quite the killer too...so quit while ahead
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

transit_94
Explorer
Explorer
Have you some one in mind to collect insurance on your death.Please do not even think of such a thing. Carbon monoxide is a killer it is quite but it gets the job done.

Francesca_Knowl
Explorer
Explorer
Restricting exhaust flow will reduce the efficiency of the "engine" generating it or shut it down altogether. That's the whole basis of the old "potato stuck on the tailpipe" thing we thought was so comical when we were kids!

Or those of us who can remember that far back did, anyhow...;)
" Not every mind that wanders is lost. " With apologies to J.R.R. Tolkien

n7bsn
Explorer
Explorer
Just about every RV has the same basic model of furnace.

Tech wise these furnaces are about as efficient as home propane furnaces of 30 years ago. RV furnaces haven't really changed much since the first blower-type propane furnaces were installed in an RV.

I suspect the companies really don't see enough of a demand for them to try and get RV furnaces as nearly as efficient as home ones.

The same could be said for water-heaters
2008 F350SD V10 with an 2012 Arctic Fox 29-5E
When someone tells you to buy the same rig they own, listen, they might be right. When they tell you to buy a different rig then they own, really pay attention, they probably know something you don't.

robsouth
Explorer II
Explorer II
Fleetwood Couple wrote:

Obvious concerns our CO2 gasses, we do have an alarm for that. Or would it even be worth the time or expense to pursue it.

thanks


Perhaps you mean CO gasses as CO2 is carbon dioxide, a product of exhaling. And as Old Biscuit said, it will not work.
"Sometimes I just sit and think. Sometimes I just sit." "Great minds like a think."

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
The exhaust cools off within a very short distance......so installing piping will accomplish nothing as far as 'heating'.

It will cause back-pressure issues which will result in furnace shutting down.....resulting in NO heating.

Combustion side fan is designed to supply just enough air flow for proper combustion (fuel/air ratio). Disrupt that and no heating...problems with ignition, problems with maintaining main flame, problems with excessive heat within exchanger---high temp trip.

NO it won't work.


'4 Season' rig.....
Fill fresh water tank-use pump>>>>>>>disconnect water hose and stow (use during daytime to top off tank)

Shop light in take area......GOOD!

Ice maker line blocked off......Good!

We spent 2 weeks in temps that didn't get above 0*F and went as low as -14*F.
Propane, propane,propane......run that furnace
and open cabinet doors at night so heat can get to areas under cabinets where water lines run
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

timmac
Explorer
Explorer
Fleetwood Couple wrote:
Just seems like a big waste of heat. We have a 4 season unit but it is going down to single digits tonight, have heat tape/insulation on the hose. Shop light in the area with the tanks. Fridge vent has top two vents blocked of, ice maker line unhooked.


Yep furnaces, fire places and any heating source that allows half the heat to go up a flue and escape is a energy waster..

timmac
Explorer
Explorer
Fleetwood Couple wrote:
Has anyone experimented with piping the propane heat exhaust under their class A for an additional heat source for the basement and keeping the main floor warmer?
My Idea here was to use dryer vent hose to route it under the rv to the desired locations.
obvious concerns our CO2 gasses, we do have an alarm for that. Or would it even be worth the time or expense to pursue it.

thanks


I think the back pressure from the dryer hoses being long will over heat the inside of furnace, if the dryer tubes were going up that would be OK but down and along the bottom you will have issues and that furnace will over heat and shut down or catch on fire..

Fleetwood_Coupl
Explorer
Explorer
Just seems like a big waste of heat. We have a 4 season unit but it is going down to single digits tonight, have heat tape/insulation on the hose. Shop light in the area with the tanks. Fridge vent has top two vents blocked of, ice maker line unhooked.
2006 Fleetwood Expedition 38n
300 Cat Engine (MP-8 Performance Module)
Retired US Navy SCPO

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
I would like to see the exhaust run through the water heater before exiting the side.

What are you trying to keep warm? Maybe some electric heat pads or heat tape.

old_guy
Explorer
Explorer
I would think that if it could be done safeley, it would have been done long ago