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Water pump...if everyone can keep their cool!

Vintage465
Nomad
Nomad
Since my original post got closed down:(, I think I have come up with game plan! I will keep the existing 4048 SureFlo, add a couple feet of 1/2 flexible high pressure hose on the downstream side of the pump to quiet the little rascal. Also thinking I could add a small SureFlo Accumulator Tank to try and smooth out the pulses as we use the faucets on low flow to save water when we are boon docking. Then on the deluxe side of things I think I would like to add a second accumulator tank between my under sink filter and the filter faucet. Does anyone see any issues with installing a second accumulator on the dedicated filter line?

Thanks!
V-465
2013 GMC 2500HD Duramax Denali. 2015 CreekSide 20fq w/450 watts solar and 465 amp/hour of batteries. Retired and living the dream!
44 REPLIES 44

Vintage465
Nomad
Nomad
Vintage465 wrote:
Bobbo wrote:
The accumulator tank after the filter will try to push water backward through the filter when pressure is low before the filter. If you want to do this, you need a backflow check valve between the filter and the second accumulator tank.


I'm thinking the pressure will be the same on the upstream side of the filter vs. the downstream side of the filter. I'm thinking it would be equal. It should take just a little longer to settle up on the downstream side of the filter?..............wouldn't it?


Now I see what you mean. When I turn on a faucet upstream of the filter then the pressure would be lower causing a back-flow. Have to look into this.............
V-465
2013 GMC 2500HD Duramax Denali. 2015 CreekSide 20fq w/450 watts solar and 465 amp/hour of batteries. Retired and living the dream!

Vintage465
Nomad
Nomad
Bobbo wrote:
The accumulator tank after the filter will try to push water backward through the filter when pressure is low before the filter. If you want to do this, you need a backflow check valve between the filter and the second accumulator tank.


I'm thinking the pressure will be the same on the upstream side of the filter vs. the downstream side of the filter. I'm thinking it would be equal. It should take just a little longer to settle up on the downstream side of the filter?..............wouldn't it?
V-465
2013 GMC 2500HD Duramax Denali. 2015 CreekSide 20fq w/450 watts solar and 465 amp/hour of batteries. Retired and living the dream!

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
The accumulator tank after the filter will try to push water backward through the filter when pressure is low before the filter. If you want to do this, you need a backflow check valve between the filter and the second accumulator tank.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

Bill_Satellite
Explorer II
Explorer II
If 2 feet works, why would I need to try 15'-25'? Not sure what's going on with your coach but in all the years of reading these kinds of post I have NEVER seen anyone post that they used or needed 15' of coiled hose to quiet their water pump. IMHO, if you do, something is terribly, terribly wrong.
In hopes of calming your response, I really don't care. Use all the hose you like but the majority of RVers will never have any need for anything like a 15' loop (wrapped in whatever).
What I post is my 2 cents and nothing more. Please don't read anything into my post that's not there. If you disagree, that's OK.
Can't we all just get along?

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
Bill.Satellite wrote:
40" and 15 feet of coiled hose? Sounds like over kill if you ask me. My 2' loop works perfectly. I can hear a hum in the middle of the night with no sounds outside and no one moving around but otherwise, it's pretty quite.

Bill, I used the 40" shower hoses because they don't make shorter ones. The cost is low and the ends are the correct 1/2" NPT making them easy to install. 24" of that soft flexible hose would have worked just as well.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate

Vintage465
Nomad
Nomad
Old-Biscuit wrote:
What purpose/benefit do you think 2nd accumulator tank would provide?

1st accumulator tank is going to be handling the whole rv plumbing system as it is installed on discharge of pump (which feeds cold and hot systems)


Because of the particular type of Filter set up I have there is a lot of restriction between filter and the small faucet. I was just thinking that the second accumulator tank would make a smoother flowing filtered water flow.
V-465
2013 GMC 2500HD Duramax Denali. 2015 CreekSide 20fq w/450 watts solar and 465 amp/hour of batteries. Retired and living the dream!

Bill_Satellite
Explorer II
Explorer II
40" and 15 feet of coiled hose? Sounds like over kill if you ask me. My 2' loop works perfectly. I can hear a hum in the middle of the night with no sounds outside and no one moving around but otherwise, it's pretty quite.
What I post is my 2 cents and nothing more. Please don't read anything into my post that's not there. If you disagree, that's OK.
Can't we all just get along?

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
Dutch_12078 wrote:
I used coiled 40" soft shower head hoses and foam pipe insulation connected to our pump's inlet and outlet to drastically quiet it down. The hose on the inlet side dampens mechanical pump vibration transmission to the hard pipes ...


IF the pump intake is hard wall PEX but in most instances it's already soft wall braided hose, ergo the reason that adding more does little.
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
SoundGuy wrote:
Vintage465 wrote:
I will keep the existing 4048 SureFlo, add a couple feet of 1/2 flexible high pressure hose on the downstream side of the pump to quiet the little rascal.


"A couple of feet" will have little impact, the soft hose needs to be at least 15' or longer - coil it and wrap it in a soft towel. Adding more hose to the intake side will have little impact.

I used coiled 40" soft shower head hoses and foam pipe insulation connected to our pump's inlet and outlet to drastically quiet it down. The hose on the inlet side dampens mechanical pump vibration transmission to the hard pipes, while the hose on the outlet side dampens both the mechanical and water pulsing vibrations. Now our pump can only be heard as a soft hum in most of the coach if everything else is silent. Certainly the hose on the outlet side was the most effective, but the one on the inlet side added enough additional reduction to make it well worthwhile as well.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
LarryJM wrote:


IMO those accumulator tanks use up a whole lot of unnecessary anti-freeze or extra isolation valves to by pass them like your WH during winterization.

I think there are better and less complicated ways to solve at least noise issues.

Larry


The tanks hold 24 oz. at full pressure, and only a fraction of that at zero pressure. You have zero pressure in a winterized trailer.

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
LarryJM wrote:

IMO those accumulator tanks use up a whole lot of unnecessary anti-freeze or extra isolation valves to by pass them like your WH during winterization.

I think there are better and less complicated ways to solve at least noise issues.

Larry

My 2 gallon accumulator tank is installed with a single in line shut off valve. To winterize, I used to just close that one "extra" valve after draining the system and no extra antifreeze was needed. Now that we very rarely need to winterize, and then only for short periods, I just blow out the lines with compressed air.

Accumulator tanks cut way down on the number of on/off cycles the pump goes through, extending the life of the motor. They also smooth out the pump pulses before they reach the fixtures, which can reduce noise issues caused by pipes vibrating and water hammering.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
Vintage465 wrote:
I will keep the existing 4048 SureFlo, add a couple feet of 1/2 flexible high pressure hose on the downstream side of the pump to quiet the little rascal.


"A couple of feet" will have little impact, the soft hose needs to be at least 15' or longer - coil it and wrap it in a soft towel. Adding more hose to the intake side will have little impact.
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

LarryJM
Explorer II
Explorer II
Vintage465 wrote:
Since my original post got closed down:(, I think I have come up with game plan! I will keep the existing 4048 SureFlo, add a couple feet of 1/2 flexible high pressure hose on the downstream side of the pump to quiet the little rascal. Also thinking I could add a small SureFlo Accumulator Tank to try and smooth out the pulses as we use the faucets on low flow to save water when we are boon docking. Then on the deluxe side of things I think I would like to add a second accumulator tank between my under sink filter and the filter faucet. Does anyone see any issues with installing a second accumulator on the dedicated filter line?

Thanks!


IMO those accumulator tanks use up a whole lot of unnecessary anti-freeze or extra isolation valves to by pass them like your WH during winterization.

I think there are better and less complicated ways to solve at least noise issues.

Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
RAINKAP INSTALL////ETERNABOND INSTALL

SCVJeff
Explorer
Explorer
Why did the original get closed? Assuming this is a noise issue? Add a coil to BOTH sides of the pump, and cover them with 1/2" foam pipe covering with the adhesive closure, and add a few zip ties to keep it closed. Ours is so quiet we can't hardly hear it running
Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
What purpose/benefit do you think 2nd accumulator tank would provide?

1st accumulator tank is going to be handling the whole rv plumbing system as it is installed on discharge of pump (which feeds cold and hot systems)
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31