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Which aux propane tank for Weber Q?

sjturbo
Explorer
Explorer
I know many of us love our Weber Q's but have different methods of "gassing" them. I would like to get away from the 1lb tanks! We usually cook away from the 5'r so I would like to get a smaller tank for the "Q". I have been looking at a Manchester 5lb, the Manchester 10lb (squatty pancake as I call it), and the Worthington 4.25lb which is similar to the Manchester 5lb. I could sure use some expert advice on what your experiences may have been as far as how much grilling time you may get and any preferences!
27 REPLIES 27

carl2591
Explorer III
Explorer III
you got that right.. I did the same thing with old tank i found at house we were doing some work after the tenants moved out and left old rusted out grill and tank.. it did have a bit of gas still so i got to use that and then traded in on new born on date model.. life is good.




2112 wrote:
I exchanged my 15lb Blue Rhino last week for $17. Rather than buying tanks that only last 12 years before recert or replace I go to the Blue Rhino when I need a new tank and get one with a recent born on date. The one I recently got is dated 10/13. It's good until 2026.

I will refill it for the next 10 years and then exchange it for another one.

You can't beat a $17 tank.
Carl2591, Raleigh NC
2005 Airstream Classic 31D
2003 Ford F-250 SD, CC, 7.3L modded diesel machine
Every day is a new day with potential to be life changing.

TxTwoSome
Explorer
Explorer
2112 wrote:
I exchanged my 15lb Blue Rhino last week for $17. Rather than buying tanks that only last 12 years before recert or replace I go to the Blue Rhino when I need a new tank and get one with a recent born on date. The one I recently got is dated 10/13. It's good until 2026.

I will refill it for the next 10 years and then exchange it for another one.

You can't beat a $17 tank.


FWIW ๐Ÿ˜ž
Be very careful exchanging propane tanks. It seems the meth heads are starting to use these returnable tanks for corrosive chemicals. Then they return them and get a new one. This weakens the integrity of the tanks and could cause them to explode. I was advised to always re-fill your own tanks you know where they have been and what they were used for.
Bruce & Cindy (Chihuahua's Rambo & Chuy)
2016 Jayco 23RLSW
2014 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi
Blue Ox SwayPro

sjturbo
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks everyone for the inputs. I always take me time because I over think things! Size vs cost vs whatever! I ended up with a $27.00 Costco 20lb tank due to cost. I will store it in the bed of the tuck. I also decided I would only fill it with about two gallons to keep weight down. Ordered a Lasco Tee, a 12' and 5' ext hose for the coleman stove and weber grill. Good thing I'm not a brain sturgeon,(misspelled with intent)!

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
Randu wrote:
2112 wrote:
I exchanged my 15lb Blue Rhino last week for $17. Rather than buying tanks that only last 12 years before recert or replace I go to the Blue Rhino when I need a new tank and get one with a recent born on date. The one I recently got is dated 10/13. It's good until 2026.

I will refill it for the next 10 years and then exchange it for another one.

You can't beat a $17 tank.


Recert is only a few dollars and I have a tank over 20 years old that looks good and keeps passing recertification. I guess whatever works. Randu
The one I just turned in was stored under an outside patio grill for the past eight years or so and was all rusted out. It would not have passed recert.
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

Crodad
Explorer
Explorer
This is what I use,Propane Tree. I use an extension hose for my grill and put my propane lantern on top. Works great at night.
2015 F-250 PSD 4x4 XLT
2016 Silverback 31RK

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Randu
Explorer
Explorer
2112 wrote:
I exchanged my 15lb Blue Rhino last week for $17. Rather than buying tanks that only last 12 years before recert or replace I go to the Blue Rhino when I need a new tank and get one with a recent born on date. The one I recently got is dated 10/13. It's good until 2026.

I will refill it for the next 10 years and then exchange it for another one.

You can't beat a $17 tank.


Recert is only a few dollars and I have a tank over 20 years old that looks good and keeps passing recertification. I guess whatever works. Randu
2017 Chevy 3500HD SRW Crew LTZ
4x4,Duramax, Allison.
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Previous: 2000 Travel Supreme
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2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
I exchanged my 15lb Blue Rhino last week for $17. Rather than buying tanks that only last 12 years before recert or replace I go to the Blue Rhino when I need a new tank and get one with a recent born on date. The one I recently got is dated 10/13. It's good until 2026.

I will refill it for the next 10 years and then exchange it for another one.

You can't beat a $17 tank.
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
sjturbo wrote:
Thanks again SG! I'm thinking the following might do for me:
Two of these.
One of these.
and One of these.


Sure, you could do it that way but if you're not going to draw from one of your existing trailer tanks I'd personally instead invest in two 5 lb tanks, one to run the Q and the other to run the camp stove, keeping in mind that if one tank inconveniently runs dry you could always use the other as a back up. Actually I guess that's essentially what I do now, except I use the 5 pounder to feed my Q and 16.4 oz canisters to run the stove, knowing I can always use either source to run the Q or the stove should one or the other run out. Doing it this way avoids the need to run longer hoses that could be a tripping hazard - not that I've ever done that! ๐Ÿ˜ฎ That said, if you'd still prefer a one tank / double hose setup I'd suggest that instead of a Y splitter with an ACME Type 1 nut that you instead try to find one with the older reverse thread POL for one simple reason - ACME Type 1 connectors were designed to protect us from ourselves and have a built in FLD (Flow Limiting Device) that can reduce gas flow significantly if it even "thinks" there may be a leak in the system (which can be caused just by the simple task of disconnecting either the grill or the stove) whereas the older POL doesn't have an FLD and won't reduce gas flow under similar circumstances. Live dangerously - go POL! :B
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

sjturbo
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks again SG! I'm thinking the following might do for me:
Two of these.
One of these.
and One of these.

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
sjturbo wrote:
Thanks Sound guy! The Marshall T sounds like what I need also. I have the Q1200 and a 2 burner Coleman also. I would need new hoses for both since they are not long enough. I might get by with the Worthington. Do you know which Marshall # I would need and which hoses?


To split the high pressure feed off one of the trailer tanks I used this Stay Flow Plus kit ...

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/stay-flow-plus/24020

... and to split that feed again so I could also feed my stand alone 2 burner Coleman camp stove I used a Marshall Add-a-Tee, #G-414P ...

http://www.amazon.com/Marshall-Gas-Controls-G414P-Add-A-Tee/dp/B003VASU7Q

High pressure hoses like that supplied with the Stay Flow Plus are terminated with male / female 1"-20 threaded fittings, the same threaded fitting used on 16.4 oz propane canisters. Standard hose lengths are 5' and 12', although I ordered a 25' version as well that I could run out to my Weber Q120 which would be sitting on the campsite picnic table. My order of connection would be - Stay Flow Plus to split the tank feed, 12' high pressure hose to the curb side of the trailer where I'd have my camp stove sitting on a small table under the awning, Marshall T to split that feed so I could feed one leg to the stove (either directly or with a short 5' 1"-20 hose) and connect the 25' high pressure hose to the other leg and run it out to the grill. I always put my grill away after use so I'd simply disconnect the hose end from the grill, cap the end, roll up the extra hose, and hang it over the trailer bumper. The male 1"-20 threaded fitting on the end of the hose has a check valve so pressure in the hose wouldn't bleed off, meaning I could continue using the stove without the grill being connected. This setup worked particularly well with our previous KZ Spree because the tanks were hidden behind the trailer's front cap so access to those tanks was easy but our current Freedom Express has the conventional tank setup where access to the tanks is difficult without removing the plastic tank cover. That's more fussing around than I want to bother with so I've returned to using a 16.4 oz canister to run the camp stove and a 5 lb tank for powering my Weber Q120.
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

sjturbo
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks Sound guy! The Marshall T sounds like what I need also. I have the Q1200 and a 2 burner Coleman also. I would need new hoses for both since they are not long enough. I might get by with the Worthington. Do you know which Marshall # I would need and which hoses?

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
sjturbo wrote:
Thanks for the ideas! I had thought about using the quick connect from the 5'r but I would worry about the trip hazard and burying the hose. I have a Q1200 because of it's size and weight.


The Weber Q series grills are designed to be run from a high pressure tank (or canister) source so any low pressure quick disconnect propane feed is unsuitable unless you remove the grill's regulator and invest in a hose with the proper fittings at each end to run the grill directly off a low pressure quick disconnect feed. I have several friends who do this and it works quite well but I instead chose to leave my Q120 as is and T off one of the trailer's tongue mounted tanks, using that high pressure feed to run the grill, sometimes even split the feed a second time with a Marshall T so I could also run a stand alone two burner Coleman camp stove which is also a high pressure device. However, since I always park my Q120 on the campsite picnic table it grew old having to set it all up each time and constantly try to remember to not trip over the hose running out to the grill from the trailer. :M These days I just take along a 5 lb tank to power the grill and although we use the grill almost every day when camping I usually only have to refill it once each season. I also always have on hand a couple of 16.4 oz canisters for running our camp stove (which runs "forever" on just one canister) so they also serve as spares should the 5 pounder ever run dry. JMO, but sometimes "simpler is better". ๐Ÿ™‚
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
Hoosier Cruiser wrote:
I use the 5 pound tank, also. I have found that when I have the large tank filled on the motor home, they fill the 5 pounder at the bulk gas price. I find that I fill the 5 pounds 2 to 3 times per year, but I do carry a 1 pound just in case the 5 runs out. Only used it once in 5 years.

That is why I bought the second 5 pound tank. When one is empty, I go to the second, and refill the first at my leasure.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
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sjturbo
Explorer
Explorer
Turns out that the Worthington holds about one gallon. The Manchester (pancake, squatty), a bit over two gallons. Most everyone seem to get a weeks worth of grilling per gallon? Although I like the shape of the Worthington for storage purposes we usually spend about two weeks out so the Manchester at double the capacity seems to be a better choice.