wwest wrote:shutdown wrote:
Well how did you wire in your second ac? my thoughts are either wire it back to the 30 amp panel or run a second, 20amp line out. Since most power b pedestals have 30 and 20 amp connections and I occasionally pop my 30 amp breaker without a second ac I am leaning towards putting out a second line.
First, find out why your 30A breaker "POPS"...
It's normal for it pop if you short cycle the A/C, turn it off and the back on quickly during a compressor cycle.
With no ~1000W microwave load 30A should be sufficient provided you have the "kit" installed that prevents both A/C's going into a compressor start cycle simultaneously.
Two ACs even a 13.5 and a 15 will not run on a single 30A service. Amp draw for a fifteen is around 14A, for the 13.5K, 11 or 12. You also have to figure in low voltage conditions which will increase the current draw. Add a water heater, MW coffee pot, or hair dryer and you are over the 30A limit.
I thought about converting to 50A service, but figured out that I could do two 30s easier and cheaper. That also gave me a chance to spilt out he loads for a better balance. The two cords each feed a breaker panel with a lockout that lets me run two separate panels or combine everything back to factory configurtion in case I run into a 30A only situation. I run it off a 50-30-30 breakout that I built, but Marinco makes the same thing. I also have an additional 20A inlet that feeds two outlets to run space heaters in the winter.
You *could* upgrade to a 50 amp panel. Lots of work and $$... But then there are a LOT of pedestals out there with only 30 (and 20) amps on them. ๐
Forget about connecting a 2nd AC to your existing 30A panel. I would definitely go the route of adding a separate 20 amp power inlet like in the photo. Quite easy to do. You must use a #12 gauge ext. cord otherwise a smaller one is not protected by the 20A breaker. One advantage of a separate inlet is that you can mount it as close as possible to the AC unit. If you wanted, you could connect the inlet to a new receptacle in the kitchen for times you may want to run an extra appliance (with AC off). If you have composite construction walls with solid foam insulation, you won't be able to run wiring up within a wall and will need to find a route inside cabinets, in the fridge cavity, under the tub or shower, etc. to get up to the ceiling cavity.
Forget about connecting a 2nd AC to your existing 30A panel. I would definitely go the route of adding a separate 20 amp power inlet like in the photo. Quite easy to do. You must use a #12 gauge ext. cord otherwise a smaller one is not protected by the 20A breaker. One advantage of a separate inlet is that you can mount it as close as possible to the AC unit. If you wanted, you could connect the inlet to a new receptacle in the kitchen for times you may want to run an extra appliance (with AC off). If you have composite construction walls with solid foam insulation, you won't be able to run wiring up within a wall and will need to find a route inside cabinets, in the fridge cavity, under the tub or shower, etc. to get up to the ceiling cavity.
