Best way to raise FW

[davisenvy]

I just purchased a 2016 Ram 2500 and pull a 2016 Jayco Eagle HT 29.5bhds. The Jayco seems to be a little low to begin with, but with this new Ram I am towing way high in the front. I'm about 8 in nose high. I have read about people putting 4 in subframes under their FW, but I'm a little weary of this because of warranty reasons. The only other options I see is to get new wheels/tires and a Lippert Correct Track system that says it'll lift 2 in. This gets me closer, but it still won't be level. Any other lifting suggestions? Is a subframe the only way to go?

I called the dealer where I purchased the FW and the owner said that nose high conditions don't really matter anymore because of the CRE3000 suspension that's on it. I don't really believe that to be true, but what do I know.

[2naEagle]

Tire Size Comparison

Here is a good site for comparing tire sizes.

235/85/15---28.3
235/85/16---31.7

Difference of 3.4" so you will get half that at 1.7". With a added bonus of a lot better tires.

We just keep add $$$;)

[davisenvy]

Thanks for all of the replies. I have looked into new wheels because a 16 in wheel is offered as an upgrade from Jayco. Mine currently has 15 in wheels with 225/75-15 tires. Not sure 16 in wheeels on 235/85-16 will give me that much of a lift.

The axles are UNDER the leaf springs already and I have dropped the leaf spring adjustment to the lower hole giving me 2in lift.

I measured the kingpin on the FW unhooked and perfectly level and I was at 45 in from the ground. The hitch in the bed of my truck is 56 in from the floor in my garage. The hitch position gives me 6 in clearance between bed rails and under side of nose cone. That's 11 in. I like the backing over boards idea to see just how much lift. I guess I've got my work cut out for me.

This is ridiculous! My truck is a '16 and my FW is a '16. I know its a half ton towable, but common half ton trucks aren't that much lower than 3/4 ton.

[JIMNLIN]

I used 2" lift blocks on both my toy haulers and that fixed my nose high situation, even though other than looks can't tell it made any difference. Not had any issues though some poo-poo the thought of doing that.

Guess Dexter and Rockwell American axle mfg are just pooh poohing when they recommended not to use suspension blocks over 1" on their axles.

Trucks unlike a trailer can use suspension blocks if done right.

The sub frame method is the safest and the easiest on the trailers suspension.

[lenr]

My opinion--yours may vary. I went through the same problems in 2013 with a new fifth wheel. Suggest first investing in a bunch of boards. Actually back the trailer up on increasingly high stacks of boards until it is level (on level ground of course.) This puts the trailer in the exact position that you're after and you can then get an exact measurement of the lift needed. My measurements changed a little when I did this. I needed 3.5" of lift which I got with a CorrectTrack and by going from 15" to thin 16" tire (LT215R85-16) because I didn't need all the lift of a 235R85-16 tire. Also a 235R85-16 tire may not allow enough clearance between the tires or above the tires. The CorrectTrack was a tough installation, and I don't think that I would do it again. I'd just find a qualified shop to build a sub-frame. Finding such a shop is tough however. You can probable google my signature or CorrectTrack to find the old stories.

[tinner12002]

davisenvy wrote:
I don't think the correct track is enough, but would definitely help. Is there such a thing as air bags I can put under the trailer suspension like you can put on a truck. That would be perfect!. Air them up for a level tow then air down so I can use the out side kitchen without a ladder.

I used 2" lift blocks on both my toy haulers and that fixed my nose high situation, even though other than looks can't tell it made any difference. Not had any issues though some poo-poo the thought of doing that. You just need to upgrade, use heavier, u-bolts when you do it. Way much less expensive than have a certified welder do a frame addition. Upgrading your tires and wheels as I and others have mentioned would be the easiest but only if you have 6-lug wheels can you do it.

[tinner12002]

It there is 8" or less difference from front to rear I wouldn't worry about it in my opinion, towed both ways and never seen a difference. If you have 6 lug wheels and 15" tires you could upgrade to 16" wheels and tires and gain 2-3 inches possibly, cheapest fix.

[NMDriver]

wing_zealot wrote:
Weigh the two axles individually and see if what the dealer says is true. It seems to me it's worth the $20 bucks to find out before you spend hundreds to fix a maybe problem.

X2 Besides it is good to know info.

[Lantley]

Wild Card wrote:
If its 8" differance from front to rear you are only 4" out of level. Correct track is 2" and if you can go to 235/85 tires is another inch or better and call it good.

I was able to level my rig exactly this way although the taller larger diameter tires will only give you an additional 1/2" assume you stated with 235/80/16.

[Wild_Card]

If its 8" differance from front to rear you are only 4" out of level. Correct track is 2" and if you can go to 235/85 tires is another inch or better and call it good.

[davisenvy]

The truck sits level when the FW is hooked up. I don't want to ride nose high in the truck.

[laknox]

I thought that most of the newer trucks had lift blocks that could be removed. If so, then remove them and lower the truck a couple inches.

Lyle

[ScottG]

You would have to cob together an air bag kit and they aren't going to lift it anywhere close to 6".

[davisenvy]

I don't think the correct track is enough, but would definitely help. Is there such a thing as air bags I can put under the trailer suspension like you can put on a truck. That would be perfect!. Air them up for a level tow then air down so I can use the out side kitchen without a ladder.

[2naEagle]

davisenvy wrote:
The leaf springs are already on top of the axles. The dexter axle flip kit wouldn't do me any good. The only options I have found are bigger wheels/tires, lippert correct track and/or subframe lift.

Well you are correct. I think you will probably be the happiest with the frame lift. I still think you should go with heavy duty shacks wet bolts and extra bracing while you are at it.

It does suck that these trucks are so high.

But they do look cool.

The correct track should give you 2" is that enough?

[rhagfo]

davisenvy wrote:
The leaf springs are already on top of the axles. The dexter axle flip kit wouldn't do me any good. The only options I have found are bigger wheels/tires, lippert correct track and/or subframe lift.

Well as far knowing how much sub frame you need Old_Biscuit is close, but missed an important step.
1st find a level parking lot not used on weekends so you have some time.

Then with TV and 5er hooked up park on the level area. At the pin location measure from ground to top of bed rail, call this "Measurement1".

Now chock the 5er wheels and disconnect the TV from the 5er, pull TV clear of the fiver, then level the 5er. Then at the pin measure the distance from the ground to the bottom of the 5er over hang, call this "Measurement2"

Now time for math (measurement1 + 6") - measurement2 = needed lift at axles.