blank tank wont seal

[Ropdoc]

Hello all,

My 5th wheel is only 6 months old. I have flushed and flushed my blank tank but it will not seal. Every time I remove the cap off the end I have to have a bucket ready. I have been careful to make sure the handles are all pushed in. What else should I do?

Also has anyone else broken the handles off of the dump tanks? Mine slip in half. I've glued them, but does not last. I guess it is time fo metal custom handles.

Thanks,
Dave

[Ropdoc]

I learnt a lesson too about having a bucket ready. I told the dealer about the issue since the 5th is in for service anyway. We'll see what they say. Otherwise I will make a fluching wand and give a good once over.

[phillyg]

Is it a FR 327CK by any chance? Mine went in for the same problem. Service tech said the valve couldn't close fully because of lots of "stuff jammed in there, thus blaming it on us. We've only been RVing for 30 years now and have never had that problem in the past, just saying. I think the tank can't fully drain properly. They had to remove the underbelly material and said the install looks correct. I'll know next time I remove the drain cap, and I'll be holding a bucket, too.

[Wishbone51]

I've had this issue before, but it seemed to resolve itself

. On my second ever RV trip, I took my trailer from Portland, OR to NYC on a 5-week trip. At my 5th stop at a KOA outside of Chicago, I decided to rope my 13 year old son in helping me with the black tank duties. He removed the cap and about a gallon of waste came out. Almost like someone pulled a practical joke and pulled the handle, then pushed it back in again.

He was disgusted, and never ever wants to do that duty again. I thought it might have been a bad seal, but this has never happened since. Needless to say, each and every time I pull the cap, I have a bucket at the ready, but nothing ever comes out, except a few drips of gray water from the last dump.

[Ropdoc]

I have the trailer in the dealer for other issues and a recall. I will ask them to check the leak also. Lets see what they say. Then I will do as you all recommend here.

Dave

[avvidclif1]

GENECOP wrote:
Before replacing give a good thorough flush a try, just pick up the fitting that allows you to spray directly up the outlet while dumping, after dumping,,,try that first...

That works if it's a straight shot up to the valve, any elbows and no go.

[Coach-man]

You state your rig is only 6 months old? Do you have a warrenty on it? Had a similar problem with a class C, dealer hemmed and hawed until warrenty had run out, problem was a twisted seal which prevented the valve from closing properly! I replaced the valve with a new one, not hard, but messy!
Fill and drain black tank a couple of times to ensure as clean as possible. Remove and replace valve seat, paying attention to alignment and be careful not to twist seal. Good luck!

[avvidclif1]

I had that problem and when I got it fixed it was paper in the valve holding it slightly open. I have since made an end for a water hose that has 4 holes out the sides. The water sprays 90 deg to the hose. Close the valve and put the hose up the black tank drain until it stops. Open the valve and extend the hose another 1-2" and turn on the water. Work the hose back and forth slightly while rotating it and that will usually clean out the valve. Needless to say don't do this in your front yard, you will have a mess, and wear old clothes. Beats taking it in for a $100+ deduction from your billfold and a several week wait.

[forumcoach]

You did not mention if you have a cable or an aluminum rod pull.

If you have the threaded aluminum rod it is less common to have problems. Just remove and replace or clean the valve. Probably some tp stuck in the valve track.

If you have the cable pull it is much more common to have problems shortly after you buy your unit. Not because there is something wrong with cable pulls, but because of the quality of install. The binding and play causes the valve to not quite close.

I often have to repair newer cable pulls for this issue. Quite often the manufacturers will take a universal cable that is too long and then coil it up in the underbelly. This causes friction and the valve to pull and close hard.

In the field I remove the cable and lay it straight.
Measure the throw or length that the inner cable sticks out beyond the cable housing. This dimension changes with each size valve.
Remove the inner cable.
Cut housing to correct length that is actually needed to minimize binding.
Install inner wire and cut to proper throw.
Reinstall and you will be amazed how easy and smooth that cable pull works now.

[C-Bears]

I would go a step further, get the Flush King and put it on the end of your sewer boom. Back flush your black tank several times and see it that allows your black tank gate valve to fully close. If there is debris in the gate valve tracks it will sometimes prevent it from fully closing and allowing junk to seep out.

Also try a black tank additive. There are several out there that lubricate your gate valves. Even if the unit is new, who knows how long since actual production it sat dry.

[MarkTwain]

spud1957 wrote:

Ropdoc wrote:
Hello all,

My 5th wheel is only 6 months old. I have flushed and flushed my blank tank but it will not seal. Every time I remove the cap off the end I have to have a bucket ready. I have been careful to make sure the handles are all pushed in. What else should I do?


Thanks,
Dave

If you are unable to easily access your valve to replace it. This will work http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/twist-on-valve/27868. It will at least allow you to connect the sewer hose and eliminate the dreaded bucket dance.

X2, solves the problem, works great and easy to install:)

[Ropdoc]

Thank you for the advice. We know (at least I hope my DW remembers) not to flush wipes or other objects down the line. I will have to purchase the valve. For my last trailer I made a PVC tube wand to flush the tank from the top. I guess I will have to make another one for this trailer too.

Again Thank you.
Dave

[RollandB]

I've got the same problem and have used the same valve shown. I was going to tear into replacing the valve but actually like having the one I added as an additional stop.

[Dave_H_M]

that add on valve is nice but I went to the school of hard knocks on what happens in freezing weather.

[Pipeman]

It might be easy. It's happened to me but I found that after I had flushed and waited and when I thought that's all the liquid that'll come out, I put the cap on. When I took the cap off later on there was a bunch of cr*p that came out. It's just residual liquid still in the pipes. I also smartened up and put an end of line valve on the end of the sewer pipe. No more wet, stinky feet....yes I've broken the handles and just replaced with new ones. They just screw on. Hopefully it's also your problem and nothing more serious.This is the valve at this link...http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/twist-on-valve/27868