Disc brakes

[Aka_the_breeze]

Hello gang ,

I have been contemplating taking a ride to Elkhart to see the sites.... While I am there I may get Mor/Ryde add the Disc Brake system... I already have the IS system on the vehicle.... My quoted cost is right around $3,000.00 .. I know it worth it , I want to hear the cons ( if any) .. If you get a flat and the tire shreds the hydraulic line , will the other 3 brakes still work , or will all the fluid drain and you lose all brakes ? Sorry for the newbie questions...

[kakampers]

ford truck guy wrote:

marspec wrote:

Atom Ant wrote:
The module is also required for the Ford brake controller, otherwise it things the trailer is not connected and alarms.

Late model Fords do not require a separate module but I'm not sure when that started. Initial setup of the installed controller asks if RV brakes are electric or hydraulic.

Does the module usually come with the installation or does that need to be added after the fact , or by someone else?

We just wired in two old electric brake magnets to the trailer pigtail to "tell" the controller we had electric brakes...it then sends power back to the disc brakes...works perfectly!!

[C_Schomer]

My entry is just ahead of the front axle and my batteries are just ahead of the steps. I mounted the Carlisle against the frame, under the steps. That made for the shortest brake line and battery runs. The actuator footprint is about 3" x 11.5" and 7.5" tall.
I have an update... I ran oiled brgs on my OTR trucks and those Stemco covers had tight fitting rubber plugs with a tiny vent hole in the center and they were clean. The Kodiaks came with oil covers so I used oil but the rubber plug fits loose so it can breathe and they make a continual mess on the wheels. I tried putting a tiny vent hole in the center but the plugs still puke oil. I may be going back to grease soon unless Kodiak has an updated cover. Craig

[Aka_the_breeze]

Getting ready to go for my install in about 2 weeks.... I have to find a good spot for the actuator ... How large are these ??? Do I need a 12" square spot??? Or 18" square??? I am just thinking of my options.....

[kakampers]

marspec wrote:

ford truck guy wrote:

marspec wrote:

Atom Ant wrote:
The module is also required for the Ford brake controller, otherwise it things the trailer is not connected and alarms.

Late model Fords do not require a separate module but I'm not sure when that started. Initial setup of the installed controller asks if RV brakes are electric or hydraulic.

Does the module usually come with the installation or does that need to be added after the fact , or by someone else?

I had Morryde install disks on my last RV towed by an 05 Ford. They installed the module as part of the install. They ask what you use for a tow vehicle and quote the job. You can use a P3 if you want.

Our 2011 Chevy needed the module...but we just wired in two brake magnets in the trailer pigtail connection box on the back of the pinbox to provide the needed resistance...worked like a charm!!

[C_Schomer]

I remember running in to that. I opened the under belly to reroute the brake wires but I didn't pull a new third wire. I think I left the breakaway wired as is. Craig

[RCMAN46]

When I as looking at what is required I found another wire that was difficult to manage. The wire that is used for the break away switch. On my 5th wheel that wire is in the pin box area and needs to go to the new brake actuator which in my case would be located in the basement. Also the blue wire to the brakes needs to be relocated or somehow routed to the area that the new brake actuator is located.

I hope to get mine converted before this summer's towing season.

[Randu]

The actuator works off of the same wiring harness. Difference is the brake wire that used to go to the wheels now goes to the actuator and then fluid from actuator goes to wheels. Randu

[Aka_the_breeze]

Ok another question.......
DO all of these actuators need to have a new 7 pin plug ran to the trailer ? Is it a second one ?? Or a replacement ? Forgive my stupidity ..but really want to know and have always been told that there is no such thing as a stupid question . .

[kirbybear]

I have used BrakeRite on two trailers, going on 10 years.

[C_Schomer]

I wonder when that happened. Kodiak only made the rotors and calipers when I did mine last fall. One thing I figured out while shopping for actuators is some of the mfgrs make different psi units and 1600 was the highest. Morryde said they've had great luck with Carlisle so I got the 1600 psi Carlisle. Craig

[rockintom]

No, I think Brake-rite is now part of Kodiak. I wouldn't be scared of it. rockin'

[Aka_the_breeze]

They told me it would be brake-rite... Is there a huge down side?..

[Atom_Ant]

That is a nice price!

[rockintom]

That's a helluva deal as long as they using the Carlisle actuator. I would do it myself if you had a garage to do it in. Easy setup. But being FT, the parks kinda frown on it. Stay with the NevRLube bearings. rockin'