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e track pulled up

tjohnsen
Explorer
Explorer
I recently got a new to me Yamaha Rhino. Bought it specifically because it was short enough to fit in my 10 foot garage of my 2008 Raptor 299MP. In my first trip with the Rhino I made it to our destination just fine, but when I got home I saw that several feet of track had been pulled out of the garage floor. Fortunately, there was no interior damage to the trailer from the Rhino bouncing around.

I had been using long screws into the floor and they failed. Has anyone used nuts, washers, and bolts? I know these would hold but I would have to go underneath and pull the undercarriage screening off the trailer. I would imagine I could staple it back on easy enough. Am I correct? Would this be a good, low cost, solution to the track coming loose?

Thanks!
TV 2015 Ram 3500 DRW
Raptor 299MP
2006 Rhino
WR 450
TRX 90
TTR 125
18 REPLIES 18

64thunderbolt
Explorer II
Explorer II
tjohnsen wrote:
I recently got a new to me Yamaha Rhino. Bought it specifically because it was short enough to fit in my 10 foot garage of my 2008 Raptor 299MP. In my first trip with the Rhino I made it to our destination just fine, but when I got home I saw that several feet of track had been pulled out of the garage floor. Fortunately, there was no interior damage to the trailer from the Rhino bouncing around.

I had been using long screws into the floor and they failed. Has anyone used nuts, washers, and bolts? I know these would hold but I would have to go underneath and pull the undercarriage screening off the trailer. I would imagine I could staple it back on easy enough. Am I correct? Would this be a good, low cost, solution to the track coming loose?

Thanks!


I through bolted mine @ every cross member and used screws in between. My Prowler came loose and punched through the maple door going into the living quarters in a prior toy hauler so when I traded trailers I bolted it @ the cross members with carriage bolts & lock washers.
Glen
04 Tail gator XT 34' 5th wheel garage model
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Truma tankless WH
99 F350 CC DRW 7.3 ais intake, adrenaline hpop, JW valve body,
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2011 RZR 900xp

dalen
Explorer
Explorer
The protective underbelly cover is attached with screws into the frame of the 299mp you cannot staple it back on. Also under the front part of the garage floor is the fresh water holding tank and under the middle part of the floor is the 30 gal. Gas tank. You really should remove the cover to make sure you don't damage either of these. You don't have to remove the entire cover....you can remove the screws from part of it and cut the cover to move it out of the way. They make a wide tape especially for taping the cover back together. You can buy the tape at your rv dealer.

dvg84x
Explorer
Explorer
If you tie off to the roll cage or frame, a big bump in the road will cause the suspension to compress, loosening the straps which will act like a Jerk strap when the Rhino rebounds.

If you tie down the tires or attach to the suspension close to the wheels, this is unlikely to happen. In my Toy Hauler or in my box trailer, I cross tie them diagonally...my e-track is attached with 1-1/4" long # 14 SS screws in every other hole - no problems so far!

Fishbreath
Explorer II
Explorer II
I replaced the tie-downs in my rig last year with larger D-rings. I through-bolted each one of them into the frame of the rig. Although it took some thorough measuring, it was worth the effort.
In addition to securing the rings or e-track I would recommend cross-strapping the toy in place. This will allow a little more flex in the straps.

Good luck
Bill

Dirtclods
Explorer
Explorer
tjohnsen wrote:
Dirtclods wrote:
Question for you are you tying down the rhino itself or only the wheels?


I was tying off of the roll cage.


Oh if you just used ATV/UTV Wheel Bonnets you'll be OK see link.

http://www.discountramps.com/atv-wheel-bonnet/p/ATV-WHL-TIE/?CAWELAID=1659556992&CAGPSPN=pla&gclid=C...
AAA Motorcycle RV Plus

tjohnsen
Explorer
Explorer
Dirtclods wrote:
Question for you are you tying down the rhino itself or only the wheels?


I was tying off of the roll cage.
TV 2015 Ram 3500 DRW
Raptor 299MP
2006 Rhino
WR 450
TRX 90
TTR 125

Dirtclods
Explorer
Explorer
Question for you are you tying down the rhino itself or only the wheels?
AAA Motorcycle RV Plus

mustangglp
Explorer
Explorer

tjohnsen
Explorer
Explorer
RRyall wrote:
There are a couple of butterfly type fasteners that you could use that would eliminate the necessity of pulling apart the undercarriage screening. I would assume that the fasteners would not be able to hit anything underneath such as wiring, etc and damage it, since there were originally tracks fastened in that location. These are similar to a fastener used to attach items to drywall, but for wood/metal.


Do you know the name of one of those particular fasteners? I plan on going through the floor with bolts but I'm sure there will be areas that are too difficult for me to access due to holding tanks etc.
TV 2015 Ram 3500 DRW
Raptor 299MP
2006 Rhino
WR 450
TRX 90
TTR 125

tjohnsen
Explorer
Explorer
Bedlam wrote:
I carry two buggies in my enclosed trailer. Two wheels are secured with wheel nets where one side connected to D-loop tie downs and the other side to e-track. The track sections are 5' long and secured every 5th hole with wood screws that are slightly longer than my decking.

I always suggest people tie a vehicle down against the wheel, axle or outboard swing arm so the suspension can float and not fight your anchors.

Determine how thick your load floor is and use screws the same length to avoid puncturing something underneath. Run screws in every hole in areas that you think will have a tie down and double the screws in other areas to helve the gap between current screws.


I believe that the suspension sway is likely my problem. I did not use chocks, I did however, have a good health screw in each mounting hole. I think it will be best for me to get underneath it today and take a look at what I'm working with.


Thanks!
TV 2015 Ram 3500 DRW
Raptor 299MP
2006 Rhino
WR 450
TRX 90
TTR 125

Doughboy12
Explorer
Explorer
They make a "squish" nut that you don't have to have such a big starter hole to use than the butterfly thingies.

Vet_Man
Explorer
Explorer
The deck of my trailer is 5/4. I have SS screws in ever hole they are the max length with out coming through the bottom. My trailer is 17 ft long. It was expensive but has never pulled lose.
2008 Itasca Sunrise 35A
2008 Honda CRV Toad
2016 Chev ZR1 Colorado Toad

"We Traveled To Alot Of Different Places While On Vacation, Until The wife Asked Directions"

joebedford
Nomad II
Nomad II
I have a couple of 18" sections of track where I didn't have D rings. I used BIG screws in every hole. Also, my wheel chock catches the steel frame with two bolts and two other bolts with big washers.

1L243
Explorer II
Explorer II
I would not recommend using screws alone. For me it was easy I don't have s sealed underbelly so I could get under the rig to fasten large washers and nuts on the end of 1/4" Carraige Bolts. I go about every other hole where I have a tie down strap but then every 12" My tie down points don't really change because I am hauling the same thing all the time. But if I had to move straps around, I might put bolts every 6"...

2017 Coleman 300tq by Dutchman Toy Hauler. 34.5 feet long and under 10k Gross. 500 watt Solar 2000 watt Inverter, 1999 Ford F250 2WD 7.3 4R100 DP Tuner, S&B Cold Air Intake, Gauges, 6.0 Trans Cooler, Air Bags.