Height Issue

[Heff560]

My recently purchased 5th wheel is rated at 149 inches tall. My shed door opening is 145 inches. The floor in the shed is concrete. The side walls of the shed are 168 inches. There is plenty of room to raise the door opening, but that will not be cheap. The obstruction on the 5er's roof is the AC. I am looking for low cost suggestions......Thanks in advance.

[Heff560]

New garage door was installed shortly after my last post. The project came in way under budget and our 5er is tucked in for the winter. Cutting a path in the concrete is a GREAT idea. I am happy with our results given the situation.......

[Tom_Diane]

Raise the door and never have to take off the a/c or lower air pressure in tires ect. Do it right the first time, once and for all!

[Dave_H_M]

heff

You did goood man. And resourceful also.

Now for the red neck way. My new fifth wheel would not go in kinda like your pics. The header had been raised in the past and maxed out. I wound up renting a concrete saw and cutting two tracks in the concrete just far enough for the AC to clear the header. it is not visible from the house and I don't think anyone noticed it yet from a galloping horse. :B

Hey if the new owner does not like it when the kids sell this place he can creet them back in again. :W

[Tatonka]

Any solution found?

Low cost?

I was thinking that the door could maybe be raised on the inside with a filler piece added to the bottom. Maybe even a wooden 2x6. Depending on clearance when open, adding a 2x6 filler piece to the top might work.

Then heavily reinforce (scrap steel?) and notch the header to allow the a/c unit to pass through it.

[Heff560]

Major progress on the barn door project today. I had an estimate of $930 to increase the height of the door opening from 12 foot to 13 foot. I decided to tackle the job myself. I started taking the steel siding off this week and got about half of the steel off in two evenings work. I also sold the 12 foot door on craigslist for $550. This after noon the contractor that bought my door came to take the door down. After he and his partner finished, I explained what I was doing and he offered to help. His partner assisted as he took off the rest of the steel and raised the header. They did all this for $200. After I cleaned everything up, I moved the 5th wheel into the barn, what a relief. The new 13 foot door should be installed in a couple weeks. Progress is sweet......

[soling2003]

Sounds like the neighbor at our cabin. Their 20 ft sailboat, we had to take the coupling and "v" support under the trailer tongue off, put the tongue on a handcart to lower it down enough so that the bow pulpit would clear the door. So he sells the boat, no problem, gets a new ski boat. Won't fit lengthwise. so he has a handiman cut a 2' square hole in the far end of the wall with a box over it. Now we just put the boat in backwards, tongue first into that hole. fits with about 2" to spare if you turn the outdrive to the side!

My dad was smart though, he built the garage with an 8' door and one 10' door for the ski boat and plenty long, so we could put the 22 ft. Searay in with no problem!

[Coyotecprs]

Maybe you can sell you current door to recoup some of the money for the new door.

[laknox]

motorcycle jack wrote:
I would pull my rig in until the AC is almost at the door opening. Then I'd mark exactly how much more height I need and how wide the AC is. I cute an opening and make a flapper that would swing freely back and forth. Then I could pull in and out at ease with the flapper opening and closing over the AC. You might have to make a new door header at the flapper height and stubs down to the now compromised header but all in all it would be cheap and easy to do and use.

Can't. The door cross-tube is just above the header, as well as the opener track, unless it's got a side-motor system or is manual. The whole door system's got to be re-engineered or replaced.

Lyle

[ol_Bombero-JC]

.


Easy solution!

Invite all the posters out for a.......barn raising!.:W

~

[Dayle1]

motorcycle jack wrote:
I would pull my rig in until the AC is almost at the door opening. Then I'd mark exactly how much more height I need and how wide the AC is. I cute an opening and make a flapper that would swing freely back and forth. Then I could pull in and out at ease with the flapper opening and closing over the AC. You might have to make a new door header at the flapper height and stubs down to the now compromised header but all in all it would be cheap and easy to do and use.

Typically an overhead door only rises to the height of the header, so just cutting the header will still leave the A/C hitting the opened door. OP states he needs about 11", so a higher track would be required to achieve that much clearance.

[motorcycle_jack]

I would pull my rig in until the AC is almost at the door opening. Then I'd mark exactly how much more height I need and how wide the AC is. I cute an opening and make a flapper that would swing freely back and forth. Then I could pull in and out at ease with the flapper opening and closing over the AC. You might have to make a new door header at the flapper height and stubs down to the now compromised header but all in all it would be cheap and easy to do and use.

[Heff560]

The door opening is 16'wide and 12 foot high. The contractor that built the barn came in with an estimate of $930 to move the header up one foot increasing the opening 11 inches. This will be plenty of room. Regarding the door. It is an overhead door and the first overhead door guy I talked with said it is best to replace the entire door. I am getting a second opinion on the overhead door portion of the project. Slow progress.....

[sdetweil]

stetwood wrote:
Can the contractor just add 11 inches on to the bottom of the door or will he replace the entire door?

depends on the door style. I have 12ft doors on my 10ft opening, cause the doors were cheaper that way. (premade vs special order).

the side frames will be the biggest material expense.
(door tracks).. if u need small section of door tracks contact me offline, as I cut off over a foot on mine, just laying here.

big pain part will be having to remove the door to rebuild the frame and then re-install it (assuming no change to the door length itself).

[avvidclif1]

sayoung wrote:

stetwood wrote:
Can the contractor just add 11 inches on to the bottom of the door or will he replace the entire door?

Is the door a roll-up or track door?looks like you could raise to the seam trim.you can't make the door too tall.

Look at the pictures, the door isn't the first problem.