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OK on two wheels out of four?

Artum_Snowbird
Explorer
Explorer
I will be getting new tires soon, and for reasons I can't go into here, it will involve riding up on blocks so I can take two wheels off, then taking two wheels into the shop, getting the new tires on, replacing the two wheels, then driving off the blocks and then driving up on the new tires and taking the other two into the shop.

During this time the rig will be connected to the truck, and won't be moving anywhere. I will be using another vehicle to go to the shop.

Anything I should worry about with the method I have planned.

ps putting on Brigestone Duravis R500 tires.
Mike
2012 Winnebago Impulse Silver 26QP
2005 16.6 Double Eagle
2018 Jeep Wrangler JK
previously Snowbird Campers,
Triple E Motorhome and Fifth Wheel
28 REPLIES 28

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
Artum Snowbird wrote:
I thought of that too Jerry, but in our case our rig is very empty of everything right now, so I figured I might be 200 pounds over on each tire, with the truck supporting the hitch.

Also, looking into the manual, it does not recommend that you jack on the axles, but instead jack on the frame.


Not to change your mind on this, but 95% of the reason this is in the manual is lawyers.

Unless jacked right at the spring mount there is the possibility of damaging the axle.
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

Bamaman11
Explorer
Explorer
FYI: If you have not purchased your tires, the Duravis R250 ribbed tires are actually better for a fifth wheel trailer. They pull slightly easier, and cost virtually the same. Either tire mounted on a 1 ton truck might get you 150K miles before wearing out.

I recently bought the R250's at Costco for about $197 each, and they had them in stock in 3 days.

Dtank
Explorer
Explorer
Artum Snowbird wrote:


Also, looking into the manual, it does not recommend that you jack on the axles, but instead jack on the frame.


The frame!

Check the axle mfgr's recommendations also.

No big deal to leave it attached to the TV -and/or- use *two* bottle jacks.
One in front - one in the rear of the wheels (under the *frame* on the same side).

You (the OP) obviously asked - as there is some doubt involved in your plan..:h
The ramp and/or shackle proponents aren't going to donate bucks for any repairs you may incur for damage using their methods..:R

You can look at mfgr "recommendations" as CYA (for the mfgr), common sense, or whatever.

The ramp/s or "jack under the shackles" option/s are your dice to roll.
Whatever rings your chimes!..;)

.

MFL
Nomad II
Nomad II
Artum Snowbird wrote:
I thought of that too Jerry, but in our case our rig is very empty of everything right now, so I figured I might be 200 pounds over on each tire, with the truck supporting the hitch.

Also, looking into the manual, it does not recommend that you jack on the axles, but instead jack on the frame.


As others have mentioned, driving up on ramps, similar to your plan, has worked just fine for them. I think if you would call the FW manufacturer, to ask them about this, they would just say to lift by the frame only.

I would never say to ignore your owners manual, to lift by the axle. I will say that most manuals, including mine, says to never lift by the axle, but to use frame. You would not believe, what part of the axle, I have seen people use. This is the reason for the manual warning.

I have a Trailer-Aid, that I received as a gift, and have used it. I carry it for an emergency, but much prefer to jack by the U-bolt if I can.

I also use an actual 2"x4" eight inch long piece of oak wood, that I routed out, to just cup the U-bolt. I use a bottle jack under this piece of wood, before placing a U-shaped jack stand.

I hope your method works well for you, just saying that my way, one side at a time, is more comfortable for me.

Jerry

JIMNLIN
Explorer
Explorer
SkiSmuggs wrote:
JIMNLIN wrote:
Okay... I'll be the third group... drove up on a trailer aid and changed a flat, no problem... the next flat, I had to back the trailer up on the aid... the leaf spring bent about 2 inches from the rear hanger. I now jack under the axle between the u-bolts..

Yeah I've yet to run into a experienced tire dealer that ramps one tire to raise the other for service work.
My truck tire dealer and my equipment trailer mfg warned me not to ramp one tire.
I was young and smarter than they were back then so I ramped one wheel to raise the other on a loaded GN trailer with 7k axles. As I was tightening the lugs up I heard the tire on the ramp pop like it was hit with my tire thumper. I rolled a few miles at 40 mph to the next small town that luckily had a Goodyear truck tire store. They jacked the wheel that had popped and sure enough the tread belt had split in the center in one spot.
I didn't listen so I paid the price.

I think that tire was a goner anyway. You would have been moving down the road when it blew.

How do you know that ?? :R
The set had less than 15k miles and were about 6-7 months old.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 two slides

SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
JIMNLIN wrote:
Okay... I'll be the third group... drove up on a trailer aid and changed a flat, no problem... the next flat, I had to back the trailer up on the aid... the leaf spring bent about 2 inches from the rear hanger. I now jack under the axle between the u-bolts..

Yeah I've yet to run into a experienced tire dealer that ramps one tire to raise the other for service work.
My truck tire dealer and my equipment trailer mfg warned me not to ramp one tire.
I was young and smarter than they were back then so I ramped one wheel to raise the other on a loaded GN trailer with 7k axles. As I was tightening the lugs up I heard the tire on the ramp pop like it was hit with my tire thumper. I rolled a few miles at 40 mph to the next small town that luckily had a Goodyear truck tire store. They jacked the wheel that had popped and sure enough the tread belt had split in the center in one spot.
I didn't listen so I paid the price.

I think that tire was a goner anyway. You would have been moving down the road when it blew.
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar

JIMNLIN
Explorer
Explorer
Okay... I'll be the third group... drove up on a trailer aid and changed a flat, no problem... the next flat, I had to back the trailer up on the aid... the leaf spring bent about 2 inches from the rear hanger. I now jack under the axle between the u-bolts..

Yeah I've yet to run into a experienced tire dealer that ramps one tire to raise the other for service work.
My truck tire dealer and my equipment trailer mfg warned me not to ramp one tire.
I was young and smarter than they were back then so I ramped one wheel to raise the other on a loaded GN trailer with 7k axles. As I was tightening the lugs up I heard the tire on the ramp pop like it was hit with my tire thumper. I rolled a few miles at 40 mph to the next small town that luckily had a Goodyear truck tire store. They jacked the wheel that had popped and sure enough the tread belt had split in the center in one spot.
I didn't listen so I paid the price.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 two slides

Hvyhauler
Explorer
Explorer
Great tire choice with the R500. I always jack our 5ver up under the u bolts and use jack stands to hold the axles up.I prefer a 20 ton hyd bottle jack for easy lifting. I pulled all 4 at one time for replacement over 2 years ago.
2006 Dodge 3500 DRW SLT 4x4 LB QC CTD PullRite SuperGlide
2007 Mountaineer 336RLT Mich. XPS Ribs Duro Max XP4400E Gen.
2000 Lance 1130 Torklifts/SL/Stainless Generac Gen.
2 Rescued Camping Collies (always ready to go)

Allworth
Explorer II
Explorer II
When I replaced my axles (and added wet bolts) I used cribbing made of 4x4 fence posts cut in 12" & 18" pieces. I used the landing gear (with the trailer not on the truck) to do as much of the work as possible. Let the front end down as far as possible; put cribs behind the rear spring hangers. Raise the front end; crib just behind the landing gear. Use a hydraulic to get the last couple of inches on the front to get the wheels just touching.

By the way, if you have a compressor at home (all RVers should) you can jack it to where it is still touching, then air-down to about 20 or 25 psi and pull the wheel off without breaking the bead. Reinstall at 25 then air-up to 65 or 80 depending on the trailer.

We used to air-down a stock trailer to get it into a shed. It was about an inch and a half too tall at full pressure. Pumping tires up and down was easier than rebuilding a door.
Formerly posting as "littleblackdog"
Martha, Allen, & Blackjack
2006 Chevy 3500 D/A LB SRW, RVND 7710
Previously: 2008 Titanium 30E35SA. Currently no trailer due to age & mobility problems. Very sad!
"Real Jeeps have round headlights"

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
Stefonius wrote:
rhagfo wrote:
This is our old King of the road totally supported by 2X4 cribbing and the landing gear. I did this to "Flip the Axles" it was solid as a rock! I will be doing this shortly with the current 5er to install the correct Track system.

You must have cool neighbors. I had my fiver in the driveway in pretty much the exact same position. I got a politely worded letter from the township telling me that I'm not allowed to have the overhang hanging over the sidewalk. My next sticks n' bricks is going to have to have more driveway!


LOL!

Better yet, we needed to rebuild the rear floor as we bought as a cheap way to see if we still liked camping. Paid like $1,600 for it with the bad floor, and bad tires.

So I placed it on the other side of the driveway, to replace the floor, we left the landing light on at night so it was easy to see. It was about two weeks into the project, well on the way to being back together. I was working inside and got a knock on the door, it was the county sheriff informing me that I could not block the sidewalk! :S Said I had about a week to get it moved. I finished that weekend and moved it to the storage yard.

It got to be too small, but I still miss the beauty of the rig.



Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

Puddles
Explorer
Explorer
avvidclif1 wrote:
Artum Snowbird wrote:
I will be getting new tires soon, and for reasons I can't go into here, it will involve riding up on blocks so I can take two wheels off, then taking two wheels into the shop, getting the new tires on, replacing the two wheels, then driving off the blocks and then driving up on the new tires and taking the other two into the shop.

During this time the rig will be connected to the truck, and won't be moving anywhere. I will be using another vehicle to go to the shop.

Anything I should worry about with the method I have planned.

ps putting on Brigestone Duravis R500 tires.


That's the way I did mine. Two at a time. No problems.

Note there are two groups here, those that have done it this way and had no problems and those that don't like it and never tried it. Guess who I would listen to.


Okay... I'll be the third group... drove up on a trailer aid and changed a flat, no problem... the next flat, I had to back the trailer up on the aid... the leaf spring bent about 2 inches from the rear hanger. I now jack under the axle between the u-bolts..
HTML

Mile_High
Explorer
Explorer
I have the 6 pt leveling - and I took two in for balance at a time, but I went side to side just because it was easier to raise one side at a time while hooked to the truck. Raising both side would require extra blocks.
2013 Winnebago Itasca Meridian 42E
2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara Towed

PUCampin
Explorer
Explorer
Remember there are several different suspension configurations, and one method that works for one may not work for the other.

It sounds like the OP has torsion axles, and the mfr recommends against jacking them, so what the OP proposes is fine. As stated, a static load on the tires and suspension for a couple hours will not hurt anything.

In my case I have regular leaf spring over axle tandems with an equalizer. A trailer aid would not work because the axle I am trying to lift droops too much and still contacts the ground. My frame is also 18" off the ground, it is not possible to jack on the frame. In my case, the only safe method is to jack under the Ubolt. Last time I did tires, I put jack stands under all 4 ubolts and took the tire in at once.
2007 Expedition EL 4x4 Tow pkg
1981 Palomino Pony, the PopUp = PUCampin! (Sold)
2006 Pioneer 180CK = (No more PUcampin!):B

Me:B DW:) and the 3 in 3 :E
DD:B 2006, DS ๐Ÿ˜› 2007, DD :C 2008

Stefonius
Explorer
Explorer
rhagfo wrote:
This is our old King of the road totally supported by 2X4 cribbing and the landing gear. I did this to "Flip the Axles" it was solid as a rock! I will be doing this shortly with the current 5er to install the correct Track system.

You must have cool neighbors. I had my fiver in the driveway in pretty much the exact same position. I got a politely worded letter from the township telling me that I'm not allowed to have the overhang hanging over the sidewalk. My next sticks n' bricks is going to have to have more driveway!
2003 F450 Crew Cab, 7.3 PSD "Truckasaurus"
2010 Coachmen North Ridge 322RLT fiver "Habitat for Insanity"
I love my tent, but the DW said, "RV or Divorce"...