Onan generator 5500

[twbronco]

I have a 2016 keystone raptor toy hauler and my 5500 onan generator runs for about 30 min and shuts off. It will start again and run fine but if you turn on anything more than lights or TV it shuts off.

[twbronco]

They rerouted the fuel lines away from the exhaust and so far the generator has not shut off. I will post a pic of the vent soon

[allcool]

twbronco wrote:
No I didn't. The repair shop was told to add the vents by Keystone. They are no going to test/change the fuel pump and inspect the fuel lines.

If its under warranty still, not much you can do but trust your dealer, or find a new dealer. Or bring it to a certified Onan repair shop/dealer that just does Generators. There is a good one in Mesa iirr.

Can you post a pic of the vents they installed.

Hoping you get this fixed asap....

[twbronco]

No I didn't. The repair shop was told to add the vents by Keystone. They are no going to test/change the fuel pump and inspect the fuel lines.

[lincster]

allcool wrote:

lincster wrote:
So adding the air vents didn't fix it I take it.

Nope.

Seen a pic of a Fan-Tastic Vent fan on a genny compartment door...?
lol

I didn't think it would fix the problem.

I guess some folks have to live and learn.

I would trust real life feedback from forums before I would trust a dealer.

[allcool]

lincster wrote:
So adding the air vents didn't fix it I take it.

Nope.

Seen a pic of a Fan-Tastic Vent fan on a genny compartment door...?
lol

[lincster]

So adding the air vents didn't fix it I take it.

[allcool]

twbronco wrote:
I checked the generator code and it's 36

twbronco wrote:
I checked the generator code and it's 36

Not sure if you have the shop manual, but here is a cut/paste from it.
Might want to start a new thread about your problem..?


GENSET STOPPED WITHOUT FAULT CONDITION – FAULT CODE 36
WARNING Some genset service procedures present hazards that can result in severe personal injury
or death. Only trained and experienced persons with knowledge of fuels, electricity, and machinery
hazards should perform genset service. See Safety Precautions.
Logic: RPM less than 500 and Sense Voltage S1–S2 at 0 VAC when no other fault condition occurred
Possible Causes: Auto Gen Start (AGS), fuel supply, air fuel mixture, exhaust system, loads, Inverter/Charger,
choke, demand regulator, carburetor, generator drive system, generator windings, ignition, wire connections
Diagnosis & Repair:
1. Verify that Last Fault is FC 36: Yes, continue diagnosis; No, troubleshoot actual last fault.
2. Verify whether AGS stopped genset: Yes, disable AGS or explain AGS function to customer (see
PSB-666); No, continue diagnosis.
3. Verify engine rotation manually: repair engine damage as necessary.
4. Disconnect genset control P1 connector, verify P1 pins are fully inserted and inspect pin condition per
PSB–676: insert, repair or replace pins as necessary.
5. Reconnect P1 connector and test run genset for fault occurrence: repair or replace pins in connector as
necessary.
6. Check air filter cleanliness; replace air filter as necessary.
7. Check for blocked or damaged exhaust system: repair or replace exhaust components as necessary.
8. Measure AC current while running genset with vehicle loads: identify faulty or short cycling loads.
9. Determine battery charge rate (typical default is 80 percent): if adjustable reduce to 30 percent.
10. Measure genset load capability with shop load bank.
11. HGJAD only – Run genset in Engine Run Only and externally excite field F1–F2 with 12 VDC or 24 VDC
and measure main and quadrature winding AC output.
12. Non EFI – Verify genset operation and outputs with Break-Out Tool 420–0603 and Instruction Sheet
R1098.
13. Measure AC frequency while changing engine rpm to determine if frequency response matches engine
rpm response: repair damaged generator drive system as necessary.

[twbronco]

I checked the generator code and it's 36

[nayther]

allcool wrote:

nayther wrote:
Another thing to look for is degradation of the rubber fuel lines. with the crappy ethanol in the fuel it eats at the rubber. My fuel station line between the tank and pump was toast due to this. I replaced the entire fuel line from tank to pump with 3/8 copper, short rubber hose on each end that is rated for the new fuel.

JFYI,,,
With all due respect, my opinion...
Copper is not the best choice for fuel lines on vehicles, at all.
An unbalanced tire at hyw speeds can set up substantial vibration that kills copper tube fast. If its mounted tight, every 6-8", might still be ok. But then chafing comes into play. And copper is very susceptible to chafing thru with continious vibration with a hard surface.

Copper (especially 3/8" copper tube) work hardens under vibration. Then is prone to cracking and fuel leaks. Coppers very good heat transfer properties make for a easier tendency to vapor lock.

If you don't want to use a quality fuel rated hose, then use copper clad steel fuel lines, or the new Ni-Cop tubing.

jmo

I wondered who would chime in on that. We've been using copper for fuel lines for decades. If I can find it I'll post a picture of a replication race car from 1950's with copper fuel line. Yes it will work harden if its subject to extreme movement, this will not move much, it's zip tied up inside the frame pocket. From your screen name I assume you're an A/C guy, me too, been working around copper for MANY years. This installation will outlive me.

[allcool]

nayther wrote:
Another thing to look for is degradation of the rubber fuel lines. with the crappy ethanol in the fuel it eats at the rubber. My fuel station line between the tank and pump was toast due to this. I replaced the entire fuel line from tank to pump with 3/8 copper, short rubber hose on each end that is rated for the new fuel.

JFYI,,,
With all due respect, my opinion...
Copper is not the best choice for fuel lines on vehicles, at all.
An unbalanced tire at hyw speeds can set up substantial vibration that kills copper tube fast. If its mounted tight, every 6-8", might still be ok. But then chafing comes into play. And copper is very susceptible to chafing thru with continious vibration with a hard surface.

Copper (especially 3/8" copper tube) work hardens under vibration. Then is prone to cracking and fuel leaks. Coppers very good heat transfer properties make for a easier tendency to vapor lock.

If you don't want to use a quality fuel rated hose, then use copper clad steel fuel lines, or the new Ni-Cop tubing.

jmo

[nayther]

Another thing to look for is degradation of the rubber fuel lines. with the crappy ethanol in the fuel it eats at the rubber. My fuel station line between the tank and pump was toast due to this. I replaced the entire fuel line from tank to pump with 3/8 copper, short rubber hose on each end that is rated for the new fuel.

[ramgunner]

I understand some folks have had an issue with the generator-mounted fuel pump drawing from too great a distance. Mounting the fuel pump closer to the fuel tank has apparently made a difference.

Also, make sure your altitude adjustment is correct.

[joebedford]

My rig has an Onan 5500 with solid door. No problems with shutdowns.

[CabinetmakerII]

allcool wrote:

twbronco wrote:
It runs for awhile and then surges and shuts off. The red light then blinks three times

Start at the start... go into your owners manual and look up how to get trouble codes. Get the exact trouble code you have, come back here and tell us. We all will be able to help a lot more then.
More or less, everything else is just a guess. No guarantee the trouble code will be the tell all, but it is the place to start imo.

jmo

After shut down, the red light flashes 3 times. Push the button one more time and the "trouble code" will flash. example 1 flash, pause, 4 flashes = trouble code 14 etc.