Pin box hits bed rail

[Jhurk]

Hi guys just joined forum. I sold my 39' class A now doing the truck and 5th wheel.

I purchased a 2014 Dodg Ram 3500 diesel short box. I installed the Anderson Ultimate Goose neck hitch. Purchased a 2009 Cardinal 30TS. When I picked up 5th I had to adjust the ball on hitch to highest level and reverse adapter to 5th hitch so adapter was cloaked to 5th. The pin box when doing about a 75 deg turn may hit the bed rail of truck? The fifth is nose high but not to bad. I towed 5th home towed very good. Now I have to raise the 5th to have pin box clear bed rails. Options? Flip leave springs on,5 th or spacer to raise 5th?

Anybody have any other suggestions.

[Jhurk]

Brisk wrote:
OP do you have the ram box option on your truck?

No Ram box option. I had the B&W turnover ball system installed seems like a good application. Not cheap cost nearly as much as the Anderson hitch!

[Brisk]

OP do you have the ram box option on your truck?

[Jhurk]

SabreCanuck wrote:
I didn't see where you said the pin box DOES hit the rails. You said MAY hit the rails. When you say "rails" do you mean aftermarket chrome (or other) bed rails or just the actual side of the box?

i take my chrome box rails off for summer when towing fifth and fifth is nit even close to the box sides. . There is a big difference between pretty and functional.

It would have it the bed rails or the top part of the box if I didn't make the adjustments. There is nothing on top of the bed rails no aftermarket add ons.

[SabreCanuck]

I didn't see where you said the pin box DOES hit the rails. You said MAY hit the rails. When you say "rails" do you mean aftermarket chrome (or other) bed rails or just the actual side of the box?

i take my chrome box rails off for summer when towing fifth and fifth is nit even close to the box sides. . There is a big difference between pretty and functional.

[GoPackGo]

Google Stromberg Carlson PA-250 adjustable step. I have been using one for 4 years now. Works great.

[Jhurk]

Well I got my Cardinal back and all is level and the pin box cleares the box rails. I can do a full 90deg turn and I am clear of cab and bed rails! They raised my frame 5" and cut about an inch of the pin box for good measure. The only issue now is my step is so high I need at least one more step (4 steps) I'll have to research options. Also I will have to measure my new height but should be under 13'6"!

[SkiSmuggs]

I don't believe you mentioned the clearance between the bed rails and the fiver. Since you have the ball socket behind the pin, you have already shortened the pin box by 4". I wonder if you lowered the ball so everything was more inside the bed, if it would give the pin box a little more room. I have a long pin box, have the adapter backwards, the Andersen ball at its lowest setting and it solved the issue I had of the back of the pin box hitting the bed sides with a regular Reese hitch. I still have 7-8" above the rails and am still a little nose high.

[hbillsmith]

Searching_Ut wrote:
As was just mentioned, the ball adapter hooked up to your pin box can make the effective length of your pin box either 4 inches longer if the adapter is installed so that the ball socket is forward of the pin, or it can make the effective length 4 inches shorter if the ball socket is positioned behind the pin. When I used the Andersen hitch I had to install it so that the ball socket was aft of the pin or my pin box would hit my bed rails. I had plenty of clearance by turning it around, but it slightly decreased my turning. I couldn't turn quite as sharp without risk of hitting the front of the trailer into the back window of the cab. This isn't an issue if you have a long bed truck.

You have the right solution to fix the pinbox hitting the bed rails now you just need to do one more thing that will take care of the trailer nose to cab colliding issue. Get the Curt 4in gooseball extension. It replaces your inbed flip ball with one that will have the ball 4in closer to the tailgate. Pivot point remains unchanged like you have it to solve the pin of issue. The Curt solves the Cab issue. This what I do and it works.

[Searching_Ut]

As was just mentioned, the ball adapter hooked up to your pin box can make the effective length of your pin box either 4 inches longer if the adapter is installed so that the ball socket is forward of the pin, or it can make the effective length 4 inches shorter if the ball socket is positioned behind the pin. When I used the Andersen hitch I had to install it so that the ball socket was aft of the pin or my pin box would hit my bed rails. I had plenty of clearance by turning it around, but it slightly decreased my turning. I couldn't turn quite as sharp without risk of hitting the front of the trailer into the back window of the cab. This isn't an issue if you have a long bed truck.

[rhagfo]

A picture would be great, but lacking one I will take a shot.
The back of the pin box hit the rails, because from the center of the pin to that back of the pin box is greater than half the width of the bed between the rails, that should be obvious, just stating.
The rub likely comes from the install of the Anderson Pin adapter. If you installed with the ball forward of the pin you added about 4" to the distance from the ball to the back of the pin box.
If you are lucky you can trial the back of the pin box.

[BB_TX]

Keep in mind that a lift is going to make a tall trailer even taller. Many 5ers are already several inches over 13' high to the top of the A/C and/or vent covers, so that could put you over 13'-6", and you will certainly need to be more careful about low underpasses. Not to mention a higher step up to the first entry step.

[Old-Biscuit]

Jhurk wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
You want at least 6" clearance between bed rail and 5vr overhang....more is better BUT you also want to tow level.

Flipping axles is usually 1st modification before doing any subframe mods

Moving leaf springs to top of axles will gain you 4"-6" depending on axle tube diameter and number of leaf springs

I could cut the pinbox but that would not level my 5th. I made arrangement for a shop to make adjustment. They have done many due to new high trucks! They will check suspension as some have room for adjustments, failing that they will flip the leaf springs, failing that they will raise suspension. I'll let you know which route they took..

IF they end up doing a subframe lift.......make sure that includes cross-member supports and bracing
This one is a 6" lift with 2" cross-member


And IF all that is needed is 2" lift......
Check out LCI Correct Track Kit
Aligns your axles AND adds 2" lift

[Jhurk]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
You want at least 6" clearance between bed rail and 5vr overhang....more is better BUT you also want to tow level.

Flipping axles is usually 1st modification before doing any subframe mods

Moving leaf springs to top of axles will gain you 4"-6" depending on axle tube diameter and number of leaf springs

I could cut the pinbox but that would not level my 5th. I made arrangement for a shop to make adjustment. They have done many due to new high trucks! They will check suspension as some have room for adjustments, failing that they will flip the leaf springs, failing that they will raise suspension. I'll let you know which route they took..

[Old-Biscuit]

You want at least 6" clearance between bed rail and 5vr overhang....more is better BUT you also want to tow level.

Flipping axles is usually 1st modification before doing any subframe mods

Moving leaf springs to top of axles will gain you 4"-6" depending on axle tube diameter and number of leaf springs