โJun-28-2015 07:50 PM
โJul-02-2015 03:01 AM
Cummins12V98 wrote:fj12ryder wrote:Phydeauxman wrote:That's okay, I'm still scratching my head over why someone would choose a hitch based on how easy it is to pick up rather than how well it tows. ๐
Considering that the Andersen aluminum only weighs 32lbs...I am scratching my head as to why anyone would choose to use something else.
I would trust the Andersen for a light RV but nothing else. Amazing how all people want is "EASY"
If the Andersen is truly rated at 20K+ then this must in reality be rated at 60K.
โJul-01-2015 08:29 PM
โJul-01-2015 07:16 PM
fj12ryder wrote:Phydeauxman wrote:That's okay, I'm still scratching my head over why someone would choose a hitch based on how easy it is to pick up rather than how well it tows. ๐
Considering that the Andersen aluminum only weighs 32lbs...I am scratching my head as to why anyone would choose to use something else.
โJul-01-2015 06:18 PM
โJul-01-2015 01:39 PM
ramgunner wrote:N-Trouble wrote:
Probably some Andersen tech that didn't know better.
They indicated that there were no issues with the MORryde, however, MORryde also has a special setup for hitches like the Andersen.
โJul-01-2015 11:44 AM
Phydeauxman wrote:Sounds like either one will be better than what you have if you're that unhappy with it. I don't think you can go wrong with either.fj12ryder wrote:Phydeauxman wrote:That's okay, I'm still scratching my head over why someone would choose a hitch based on how easy it is to pick up rather than how well it tows. ๐
Considering that the Andersen aluminum only weighs 32lbs...I am scratching my head as to why anyone would choose to use something else.
I hear ya...have not got mine yet but getting one. I have been researching this for a while and everyone says it pulls great with no clunking like I get with my PullRite auto slider. And easier to hook up as well.
โJul-01-2015 10:37 AM
N-Trouble wrote:
Probably some Andersen tech that didn't know better.
โJul-01-2015 10:24 AM
fj12ryder wrote:Phydeauxman wrote:That's okay, I'm still scratching my head over why someone would choose a hitch based on how easy it is to pick up rather than how well it tows. ๐
Considering that the Andersen aluminum only weighs 32lbs...I am scratching my head as to why anyone would choose to use something else.
โJul-01-2015 10:08 AM
Phydeauxman wrote:That's okay, I'm still scratching my head over why someone would choose a hitch based on how easy it is to pick up rather than how well it tows. ๐
Considering that the Andersen aluminum only weighs 32lbs...I am scratching my head as to why anyone would choose to use something else.
โJul-01-2015 08:05 AM
up2nogood wrote:
Pretty tough to only get of the truck to latch , and raise landing gear.
โJul-01-2015 08:05 AM
โJul-01-2015 01:38 AM
redhooker wrote:Learjet wrote:jerem0621 wrote:Learjet wrote:
I spoke with Curt tech support today, and they confirmed that 1/4 " is about a normal slack tolerance with the jaws around the pin.
Sounds like you have the slide bar model of the Curt 16k hitch.
It's VERY secure...if the bar is across the pin in the back...you are locked in. The down side is that there is some slop with a slide bar hitch. If it is the Slide bar version there should be a tension rod at the back of the hitch head that is supposed to take some of the slop out.
Thanks!
Jeremiah
No slider, play in the head and too much leg to base rail play also.
But the sliding back and forth on head is what bothers me.
Just checking as mine were missing on installation, but are there 1/8 inch rubber bushings at each rail pin location between the hitch and rails? If not you definitely need them, as my Q20 would "clunk" each time we had a momentum change and almost 1 inch of head movement. After placement of bushings no issue at all. I called Curt they sent them out for free. It is however a definite design flaw they are fixing with these bushings.
โJun-30-2015 07:27 PM
โJun-30-2015 07:16 PM
jerem0621 wrote:Cummins12V98 wrote:jerem0621 wrote:Learjet wrote:
I spoke with Curt tech support today, and they confirmed that 1/4 " is about a normal slack tolerance with the jaws around the pin.
Sounds like you have the slide bar model of the Curt 16k hitch.
It's VERY secure...if the bar is across the pin in the back...you are locked in. The down side is that there is some slop with a slide bar hitch. If it is the Slide bar version there should be a tension rod at the back of the hitch head that is supposed to take some of the slop out.
Thanks!
Jeremiah
The slide bars can break, my Dad's did on his RBW. They are noisy. I had a RBW also and cringed everytime I stopped or took off!
Thanks for sharing that information! That the kind of details we need in a forum.
The Curt like the OP has IS the grandchild of the RBW Lil' Rocker. The design is nearly identical with the only exception being the lack of side to side pivot lock outs on the Curt. Even the instruction manual is word for word the same in some cases.
Do you know how your Dads slide bar broke on the RBW? I have heard of damage happening when someone forgets to open the slide bar jaw but that can happen with nearly any hitch that requires the user to open the jaws before hitching. (I am not alluding that your dad made a mistake)
But I think your dads experience is the first I heard of the slide bar actually breaking.
Since there are thousands of similar hitches on the road by Husky, Pro Series, Curt, and used RBW's out there I think its worth the discussion.
Thanks!
Jeremiah
โJun-30-2015 07:03 PM