Trailer axle lifting blocks?

[buck_n_duck]

Anyone have any experience using these types of block on a camper? Looking at these as an option to try and get my trailer to ride level.

https://www.trailerblocks.com/collections/4000lb-to-7000lb-axle-kits

[JIMNLIN]

srosa wrote:
The poster that had success with blocks wisely went with 5/8 ubolts. This is an important detail. I’ve experienced a 9/16” ubolt failure with a normal setup (no blocks, torqued to spec). It wasn’t fun.

Success depends on how many miles the blocks have been in place and how much maneuvering cycles the trailer has been through.

Not only upgrade U bolts diameter but just as important heavier top plates and heavier spring keepers and beefing up certain thin U shaped spring hangers.
Blocks adds lots more side stress/leverage to these areas than same OEM components.

[srosa]

The poster that had success with blocks wisely went with 5/8 ubolts. This is an important detail. I’ve experienced a 9/16” ubolt failure with a normal setup (no blocks, torqued to spec). It wasn’t fun.

[Bipeflier]

I chose to lower the back of the truck instead of raising the trailer when we got our new Silverado. I didn't want the center of gravity any higher.

McGaughy Shackles

[garyp4951]

https://www.trailerblocks.com/collections/4000lb-to-7000lb-axle-kits
As I stated before using a 1 or 2 inch block with heavy duty ubolts is all I would go without doing the subframe.

After looking at the increased prices of these billet aluminum blocks, you could probably do a sub frame for the same cost.:)

[Old-Biscuit]

If doing 2" lift or less..Just install the LCI 'correct track alignment kit.
You get 2" of lift PLUS axles aligned

If doing more then 2" lift...subframe it with lateral supports

In other words do it right first time


As for that 1/2 ton concern......MANY 1/2 tons are just as tall plus you can adjust hitch/pin box to lower trailer

[buck_n_duck]

Garyp where did you get your blocks?

[bigorange]

garyp4951 wrote:
IMHO a 1" or 2"block is not going to place any more stress than is already on the hangers, but I agree that adding the cross member will add more support.
Over 10,000 miles on this set up with 2" blocks, and 5/8" ubolts.

You also have the Lippert Correct-Track which adds about 2" of lift...that was the warranty solution to my trailer's tire clearance issues. Mine still doesn't tow quite level so I may consider adding 1" block similar to your setup.

https://store.lci1.com/products/alignment-suspension-axles/alignment-suspension/correct-track

[garyp4951]

When you go to sell a Half ton towable 5er, with a custom built sub frame to fit a 3/4 or 1 ton truck, to a half ton truck owner, do you just tell them they will have to get a cutting torch and remove all of it to get it level?

[bpounds]

I think modest lift block are fine. You may have noticed that company doesn't offer more than 3" lift. To me that is pushing it, but if I needed 1.5 or 2" at the most, lift blocks are perfectly safe. Guys here have a knee-jerk reaction against them, but the fact is they are used universally.

The thing is, the prices from that company are outrageous. You're looking at $700 for two axles. Just about any decent sized town has someone who makes U-bolts, for a few bucks each. Any 4WD shop can advise you where to get them. And the blocks are obviously just some aluminum bar stock with a centering bolt. Centering bolts are also a common 4WD shop item.

It would be silly to build a welded lift frame for a 1.5" lift. More than that, yes definitely.

Remember, 1.5" lift blocks is going to raise the rear of the trailer a bit less than 3", give or take. Park your trailer on some 2 x 6 boards under each tire. See if that does the job for you.

[JIMNLIN]

Suspension lift blocks on a multi axle suspension aren't recommended by Dexter axle mfg in my 1-800 to their tech line a few years back.

If you notice major axle mfg like Dexter...Rockwell American don't offer suspension blocks as a option on multi axle trailers nor do trailer mfg have a option for the blocks.

The sub frame lift is the best long term safest way to lift a trailer.

Those two pictures speaks volumes for the right way vs wrong way. Blocks just adds more stress to the U bolts.....top plates.....main frame rails...spring keepers...and spring hangers especially as the tires slide (side scrub) around corners and backing maneuvers.

Now if you have a single axle trailer then short blocks with upgrade diameter/longer U bolts...heavier top plates...and reinforced spring hanger brackets (braking rotational forces) would be a wise investment.

[garyp4951]

IMHO a 1" or 2"block is not going to place any more stress than is already on the hangers, but I agree that adding the cross member will add more support.
Over 10,000 miles on this set up with 2" blocks, and 5/8" ubolts.

[RollandB]

Old Biscuit, that’s a seriously lift. Nicely done!

[noteven]

Picture 2 is best. Don’t even need to scrap the axle u bolts. Leave the axle and springs assembled and fix to the new hangars. Be careful to mark and measure and get the alignment right.

Now is the time to adjust the trailer wheelbase to change pin weight if you want to. For that cargo box you want to put on the back etc...

[Ralph_Cramden]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Accident waiting to happen.....

Ya think? ROFLMAO...........

Not to mention twisting the Lippert junk into a pretzel. That is if the Lippert nuclear power plant quality welds at the hangers hold past the first sharp turn. If they do the bottom flange may tear off I suppose.