Weight Police: Need Help!!!

[Tgator1]

Truck: '13 Chevy 2500HD, cc, sb, 4X4, SRW, Dmax, Allison. Stock suspension, but will upgrade to Timbrens, and may look into air bags.

Looking at KZ Durango Gold G359RET: UVW 10640, dry hitch 2190, dry axle 8450, NCC 2960, GVWR 13600.

Hitch is a Reese 20k slider.

[goducks10]

redsb3 wrote:


Unless their experts are on the scene at the time of the accident, there will never be any way to prove it was overweight. Like stated, in a bad enough accident, stuff and pieces are scattered all over the place. There would be no way to get a accurate weight when it was being towed.

Disagree. We can't pick and choose how or when we'll get in an accident. Suppose you are over weight and you can't stop in time and rear end a guy sitting at a stop light on a motorcycle. Guessing that very little damage would be done to the truck or trailer.
Even if someone is under weight and can't stop in time there's going to be consequences.

[CWSWine]

redsb3 wrote:


Unless their experts are on the scene at the time of the accident, there will never be any way to prove it was overweight. Like stated, in a bad enough accident, stuff and pieces are scattered all over the place. There would be no way to get a accurate weight when it was being towed.

So what you are saying if you get in accident make sure you destroy you RV to the point it can't be weight LOL If you don't destroy to that point where it can't be weight what advice you have in that case.

[redsb3]

CWSWine wrote:

SabreCanuck wrote:

SanMarMor wrote:
People keep saying it's fine to go over the trucks weight sticker ratings. Sure, it will pull, it may even stop, sort of. But if you ever get in an accident, the first thing the insurance company will do, is check to see if you were over ratings. When they find you were, your insurance is no good, and lawyers from the other vehicle in the accident, will come after you with a vengeance. After all, you negligently disregarded the trucks specifications. You are at fault. You can imagine where that will go.

Mark

I've always been curious if anyone stating the above actually has FIRST PERSON experience with that or is it another internet myth? Sad that you americans live life in fear of the all mighty lawyer. Another reason to move to Canada next year, maybe 🙂

Not condoning the overloading or not overloaded conversation, just curious if ANYONE can step up and say that the above law suite actually happened to them.?

I quote "We can bring in professionals to examine the wreckage for evidence that the motor home was dangerously overweight or unbalanced, that the tires or brakes were worn, that the hitch was not rated for the load, or that the RV lacked the proper lights, reflectors or mirrors."

RV Accident Lawyer

Unless their experts are on the scene at the time of the accident, there will never be any way to prove it was overweight. Like stated, in a bad enough accident, stuff and pieces are scattered all over the place. There would be no way to get a accurate weight when it was being towed.

[Cummins12V98]

Truck stops the truck, trailer stops the trailer. If the truck does not stop as well as one would like the kit may help some. I think just a pad change to HAWK SuperDuty would do just as much. I have never noticed a real gain in braking going to slotted, pads do make a difference. Slots do LOOK cool!

[goducks10]

Doing that upgrade is more for just upgrading to upgrade. The 2500-3500 have the same OEM brake rotors and pads. The kit supersedes both the 2500-3500 OEM brakes. I only tow 9000lbs right now and with the EB I've never needed anything extra in the braking dept. Nice upgrade though. If I decided to tow heavier that looks like a good idea.

[djgodden]

goducks10 wrote:

djgodden wrote:

goducks10 wrote:
Don't the 2500-3500 have the same drive train? I know there's certain years where things may differ a bit. But the 2500 has the same motor, same tranny and same brakes. It will pull and stop the same. It only has a lower rated set of rear springs. Now maybe for 2016 things are different. Tow ratings to a certain extent are based partly on gearing. Put 3.42s in and it drops. Put 4.10s in and it goes up. Same brakes, tranny, motor.
Only thing the OPs lacking is some stiffer springs. That 5er isn't some big behemoth TH that he's loading 4000lbs of gear in that's already got a 3000lb pin weight.
That 5th wheel is plenty doable if he keeps weights in check.

I can only speak to what I have and what I know to be fact. My 2012 2500 4x4 Ram HO turbo diesel is nearly identical in every respect to the 3500. Same engine, same transmission, same axles, same frame, same wheels and tires,same chassis... except for 2 things. The 3500 had heavier springs and brakes. I added Load Lifter 5000 bags and after market heavy duty brakes.

I have the same truck. (12 Ram 2500 CTD). I was under the impression that only the rear spring pack was different. Interested to know what the heavy duty brake upgrade was that you did. I've looked at brake parts and the disks and pads are the same for both the 2500-3500.

I had heard the same but an ASE Master Mechanic who specializes in the RAM Cummins recommended a brake upgrade. Power Stop Z36 Extreme Severe-Duty Truck & Tow Brake Kit. Due to the cost I installed first the front and the next month the rear.

[Tgator1]

To those that said to consider a brake pad change, or any other brake modification: what pads would be better? what did you do to upgrade your brakes? how much did you pay (would you pay) for parts and / or labor?

Our truck has an exhaust brake!

[goducks10]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
I am guessing brake pad change???

That would be my guess too.

[Cummins12V98]

I am guessing brake pad change???

[goducks10]

djgodden wrote:

goducks10 wrote:
Don't the 2500-3500 have the same drive train? I know there's certain years where things may differ a bit. But the 2500 has the same motor, same tranny and same brakes. It will pull and stop the same. It only has a lower rated set of rear springs. Now maybe for 2016 things are different. Tow ratings to a certain extent are based partly on gearing. Put 3.42s in and it drops. Put 4.10s in and it goes up. Same brakes, tranny, motor.
Only thing the OPs lacking is some stiffer springs. That 5er isn't some big behemoth TH that he's loading 4000lbs of gear in that's already got a 3000lb pin weight.
That 5th wheel is plenty doable if he keeps weights in check.

I can only speak to what I have and what I know to be fact. My 2012 2500 4x4 Ram HO turbo diesel is nearly identical in every respect to the 3500. Same engine, same transmission, same axles, same frame, same wheels and tires,same chassis... except for 2 things. The 3500 had heavier springs and brakes. I added Load Lifter 5000 bags and after market heavy duty brakes.

I have the same truck. (12 Ram 2500 CTD). I was under the impression that only the rear spring pack was different. Interested to know what the heavy duty brake upgrade was that you did. I've looked at brake parts and the disks and pads are the same for both the 2500-3500.

[djgodden]

goducks10 wrote:
Don't the 2500-3500 have the same drive train? I know there's certain years where things may differ a bit. But the 2500 has the same motor, same tranny and same brakes. It will pull and stop the same. It only has a lower rated set of rear springs. Now maybe for 2016 things are different. Tow ratings to a certain extent are based partly on gearing. Put 3.42s in and it drops. Put 4.10s in and it goes up. Same brakes, tranny, motor.
Only thing the OPs lacking is some stiffer springs. That 5er isn't some big behemoth TH that he's loading 4000lbs of gear in that's already got a 3000lb pin weight.
That 5th wheel is plenty doable if he keeps weights in check.

I can only speak to what I have and what I know to be fact. My 2012 2500 4x4 Ram HO turbo diesel is nearly identical in every respect to the 3500. Same engine, same transmission, same axles, same frame, same wheels and tires,same chassis... except for 2 things. The 3500 had heavier springs and brakes. I added Load Lifter 5000 bags and after market heavy duty brakes.

[rhagfo]

Me Again wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
OVER is over.....

One stays within ratings or justifies not doing so

OP...you will be OVER with that 5vr

In Washington State I never worried about being over the 8800 GVWR of our 2001.5 RAM. They "the state" licensed it to 12,000. I was never over the rear tire rating of 6830 pound. I was over the placard that listed smaller tires that the truck did not come with OEM giving the truck a 6084 RGAWR, however it had the optional OEM LT265/75R16E's. Dodge built it as a SRW 3500 with minimal 2500 numbers on the placard.

Chris

Chris, sounds like your 2001 2500 was the same as ours. Tow and camper packages no change on the VIN sticker still 8,800#, but truly a SRW 3500, which Dodge didn't offer in the 2nd Gens.
I run right at 10,000# on the TV and still within VIN sticker axle ratings, and well within the camper package 265/75-16E @ 3,415# ea., and don't need any bags or timbres.

[Bayley]

OP......I have a Ram 2500 and a heavy trailer. I added air bags and increased the wheel and tire size to give me the help I needed. My truck handles the trailer just fine and you will have the same experience if you make sure your 2500 is modified to handle the trailer you tow.
Enjoy your travels!!

[Me_Again]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
OVER is over.....

One stays within ratings or justifies not doing so

OP...you will be OVER with that 5vr

In Washington State I never worried about being over the 8800 GVWR of our 2001.5 RAM. They "the state" licensed it to 12,000. I was never over the rear tire rating of 6830 pound. I was over the placard that listed smaller tires that the truck did not come with OEM giving the truck a 6084 RGAWR, however it had the optional OEM LT265/75R16E's. Dodge built it as a SRW 3500 with minimal 2500 numbers on the placard.

Chris