How you heatin?

[Lurker52]

Maybe a bit early for some but winter is coming and I always wonder how full timers heat there rigs. The past few years I have been work camping /volunteering and have had electricity provided. This year family matters have landed us in the Ocala Fl. area.

We are in a park that we pay for our own electric so the space heaters may cost a lot to run. I am thinking I will just have to use the furnace. I don't like the noise and I hope the propane cost is not to bad.

This area can get pretty cold at times but it usually don't last to long.

So, how do you keep cozy on those cold winter nights?

[harold1946]

pnichols wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
The cheap heat system is either/or and as sold OEM can not use the propane furnace as a back up, should shore power fail. It can not be used to supplement the propane furnace.

This link does not leave me with that impression. From what they say, it looks like they have models that allow existing propane furnace models to be used on either propane or with a heating element replacing a gas flame - switch controlled. They have models for only 30 amp RVs. They have models for ducted or central propane furnaces. You have to read everything at this link - the FAQs, the compatibility chart, etc.. Obviously the models that allow leaving your RV in only a 30 amp configuration will not heat larger 30 amp RVs well below certain outside temperatures, as it takes many amps to equal the 25,000 BTU-on-up outputs of regular RV propane furnaces. However I'd like to have even only 5000 electric BTUs coming out of my propane furnace's ducts at times instead of out of only a portable electric heater sitting on the floor - in the way underfoot and not warming my hidden fresh water lines in the interior cabinets and voids. What would be ideal is to have a 30 amp model installed that would allow BOTH the electric element being turned on WHILE the propane mode of the furnace was in use, thus reducing propane consumption while at the same time getting high BTU output:
http://www.rvcomfortsystems.com/

The addition of a relay,(not included in the kit) will create a fail over system that allows it to automaticaly revert to LP if there is a power failure.

If desired, with the addition of a 50 amp power cord connected directly to the system power control panel, one can take full advantage of the BTU available. This will not interfear with the existing 30 amp powered RVs system.

[pnichols]

pianotuna wrote:
The cheap heat system is either/or and as sold OEM can not use the propane furnace as a back up, should shore power fail. It can not be used to supplement the propane furnace.

This link does not leave me with that impression. From what they say, it looks like they have models that allow existing propane furnace models to be used on either propane or with a heating element replacing a gas flame - switch controlled. They have models for only 30 amp RVs. They have models for ducted or central propane furnaces. You have to read everything at this link - the FAQs, the compatibility chart, etc.. Obviously the models that allow leaving your RV in only a 30 amp configuration will not heat larger 30 amp RVs well below certain outside temperatures, as it takes many amps to equal the 25,000 BTU-on-up outputs of regular RV propane furnaces. However I'd like to have even only 5000 electric BTUs coming out of my propane furnace's ducts at times instead of out of only a portable electric heater sitting on the floor - in the way underfoot and not warming my hidden fresh water lines in the interior cabinets and voids. What would be ideal is to have a 30 amp model installed that would allow BOTH the electric element being turned on WHILE the propane mode of the furnace was in use, thus reducing propane consumption while at the same time getting high BTU output:
http://www.rvcomfortsystems.com/

[pianotuna]

Hi Phil,

I solved the heat distribution with twin window fans replacing the cold air return grill. Cost was minimal. I find the propane furnace fan on the noisy side.

The cheap heat system is either/or and as sold OEM can not use the propane furnace as a back up, should shore power fail. It can not be used to supplement the propane furnace. My understanding is that it can not be used, even in the smallest version, on a 15 amp circuit. Those features caused me to remove it from my "want" list.

Harold has a lot of experience with installing the "cheap heat" system, so he can tell you how many hours it takes to install it.

That said, the system may meet the needs of most RV's, in the highest wattage version, if they have access to a true 50 amp pedestal.

[pnichols]

Harold,

I took a brief look at the Cheap Heat system and agree with you - it's could be a good addition to an RV that already has a well-installed ducted propane furnace system.

Space electric heaters do not distribute heat throughout the RV anywhere near as well as a normal ducted furnace system does. Why not use the propane furnace's duct system and it's fan - but run it electrically when you can off hookups instead off propane. That makes good sense to me. Our propane furnace's ducts keep the fresh water system piping warm in behind the cabinets and structure voids ... and in extreme cold this protection can be priceless. Space heaters cannot do this well ... especially with respect to interior hidden voids where merely opening cabinet doors won't get warm air back into them.

It also adds very effective backup to an important RV system - it's main furnace. In the unlikely case of a propane system failure or fuel run-out if ever caught out in cold weather when drycamping, you can just fire up a generator to keep a ducted heating system operational with hardly a break in your warmth comfort level or interior piping freeze protection.

[harold1946]

noplace2 wrote:
Cheap Heat. Hmm. $1200 to $1500 installed add-on and one still has to rely on shore power. Hmm

If we have shore power, we can accomplish the same goal with about $50 worth of ceramic heaters that we can place where they are needed and use less energy. Even though power seems "free" when included in a CG fee, we ALL end up paying for it one way or the other.

The DIY kit is less than $600. Anyone with the ability to read and follow instructions can install it.
Why not heat the whole coach evenly and not have to fool around with space heaters?
In my case the holding tanks are also heated through the ductwork, so no worries about freezing.
If there is a power loss at the pedestal it will automaticaly revert to LP.
There are advantages and disadvantages to everything, its up to the user as to what one wants to do.

[pianotuna]

I heat 100% electrically. Propane is a back up only. I use oil filled, radiant, electric carpets, and fan based heaters. This has been tested to -36 C (-33 f).

Inside the living quarters:

750 watts of carpet (3)

1300 watts of oil filled heaters(3)

284 watts of radiant (1) my favorite

1300 watts fan based (1)

1500 watt heat strip (set below room temperature so if outdoor temperature cause RV temperature to drop it will cut in)

15 watts fan only to "push" air through the duct work (1 dual window fan)

1 220 volt 100 watt light bulb that lives by the water pump
(last two items on a mechanical thermostat)

Outside living quarters:

1 electric carpet 250 watts pass through storage on a thermocube TC-3

1 fan based 600 watts in enclosed waste tanks area on a mechanical thermostat

1 200 watt heater in hose storage compartment (switched from inside RV)

1 60 watt bulb to protect the fridge from freeze up on a thermocube TC-3

Not all of these are active at the same time, except when I pull the RV out of storage in mid winter.

No extension cords are used from outlets to heaters. I do have two auxiliary shore power cords of 20 amp and 15 amp to supplement the OEM 30 amp.

I would recommend upgrading the 120 outlets to anyone using more than about a 600 watt item.

[John___Angela]

Under floor electic heating. When the feet start out warm its easy to heat.



If they can't keep up we turn these on. There are a few mounted throughout the moho. 300 to 500 watts depending on where they are. Quiet even heat with no fan.





We occasionally use one or both of the furnaces if it gets real cold or we are trying to take the chill off quick. As full timers we go through about a tank and a half of propane per year so we don't heat much with propane. Having said that we try to stay where its warmer. 🙂

[Irover]

Lived in a depression-era built house in the 50's-60's on the second level with nothing but the trusses showing and melting icicles dripping on the bed and floor in the morning when the parents turned up the oil burner and kerosene heater. 60 miles south of Montreal Quebec on the NY state side.
Believe I have it better now with a %er built in Washington; 34' long. Use an Amish knock off heater and a milk house heater. When in drops below 25 outdoors the big furnace comes on. Life is good here in the Music City TN. area!

[2gypsies1]

mobilcastle wrote:

2gypsies wrote:
We've used a catalytic propane heater for the past 16 years. It provides constant even heat without the furnace turning on and off. There's no sound to it and it's very economical compared to the furnace.

I was wondering which unit you used if you would share that information and did you have it attached to a larger propane tank-like you use with a outdoor grill? Thanks

Our propane heater is an Empire. We're very happy with its performance.

We had a propane guy run a line from our onboard propane tank into a kitchen floor cabinet space where the shut-off valve is and it exits on the outside of the cabinet at the floor level and that's where we connect the long hose. We can move the heater in different directions and further out into the room.

[pnichols]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
I just don't see the idea/concept/worry that RV living is any different than S&B living.

Same here with myself and the DW.

After spending all that RV-purchase money, we have come to expect S&B-simulated living when in the RV out in the middle of nowhere boondocking.

Look at the mega-buck expedition "recreational" vehicles. Their stated product goal is reliable and comfortable camping anywhere anytime for long lengths of time. In comparison, I don't know why a good-old El Cheapo Winnebago, or Fleetwood, or Nexus, or Lazy Daze, or whatever, can't deliver the same in a greatly reduced but albeit similar, way.

We customers of U.S. built RV's should expect no less.

[Old-Biscuit]

When we FT'd we lived same as we did in our S&B House..comfortably.

I just don't see the idea/concept/worry that RV living is any different than S&B living.

Turn on the furnace when cold
Turn on the A/C when Hot
Run the water heater for hot water
Use the oven to bake/broil
Flush the toilet and dump tank when needed.

Etc.Etc. ETc.

[retispcsi]

You can see from my sig. That I am in SW Fla. This winter we are full timing having sold the house. Years ago I snow birded in Sarasota. We will use our two heat pumps and fire place unless it falls into the 30's which only last for a few hours here in SW Fla. We are also lucky to have insulated windows and well insulted unit. Buy early morning the sun is out and heating up nicely. We pay for electric but then it is still a whole lot cheaper then heating that house we had. It just comes down to what price you put on comfort.

[noplace2]

Cheap Heat. Hmm. $1200 to $1500 installed add-on and one still has to rely on shore power. Hmm

If we have shore power, we can accomplish the same goal with about $50 worth of ceramic heaters that we can place where they are needed and use less energy. Even though power seems "free" when included in a CG fee, we ALL end up paying for it one way or the other.

[harold1946]

Cheap Heat by RV comfort systems. Our sixth winter with it and very happy.
We only use LP when off grid.

[noplace2]

Re: Aqua Hot.

Took a look. Would never meet our fulltime traveling needs.

Thanks anyway for the post.