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campground leveling

johnalavery
Explorer
Explorer
How do the Lynx and Camco plastic levels work for a Lazy Daze with duals work for leveling. Thanks John
37 REPLIES 37

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi Phil,

No, I've never needed to do both rear duals on passenger's and driver's side.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

jillhop
Explorer
Explorer
pnichols--how long would you leave your rig parked as it is in your picture? I always try to get my tires up on something flat, so the tire is completely supported on it's ground surface. I was afraid that it could damage the tire by having it "hanging off the edge" as shown above. Maybe I shouldn't worry about that? Would make life easier, and lighter to carry wood to help with leveling.
Dog shows, racing and lure coursing with whippets!
My first RV, 1998 Coachmen 22RK, Ford E350 V10 Triton

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
Don,

I don't understand how five Anderson's could be used in a two step leveling, except by only driving one direction to do the deed.


I do drive only one starting direction to maneuver onto the leveler(s) - it depends upon whether I start with the leveler(s) in the front of the tire(s) or behind the tire(s). I use levelers starting onto either side of the tires, depending upon various factors.

In my example earlier, I move ONLY PARTIALLY OFF the Andersons before I put the last Andersons in place so I get less lift from the last Anderson as I pull onto it .... but get more lift on the original Andersons as I pull onto the last Anderson. This makes the last Anderson providing less lift because I'm not on it as much as the first Andersons I placeed in their positions. It sounds complicated to describe - but it isn't, really. It's probably easier to do with the stair-step blocks I made (see photo below) than it would be with the curvy Andersons.

On the other hand if one swapped the nose for the tail, on a class C, only four would be needed.


I do that sometimes.

Personally I've never use leveling under more than three wheels, and never more than 4.5 inches.


Don't you have duals? If so .... don't you need four levelers under four rear tires sometimes?

I also carry short 2X6 pieces along to sometimes prop under the high end of a leveler before I drive onto it - that way I can get about 6 inches of lift. However, I try not to do this with rocks (our traveling companions did this - but that stair step block in the photo is exactly like the five I built and use - note the handle on the side of the stair-step block):

2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi Phil,

I don't understand how five Anderson's could be used in a two step leveling, except by only driving one direction to do the deed.

But I see you are right, five could be needed on a class C with dual rear tires.

On the other hand if one swapped the nose for the tail, on a class C, only four would be needed.

Personally I've never use leveling under more than three wheels, and never more than 4.5 inches.

They also make a "jack" that can do up to 8 inches. Perhaps I'll get two 4 inch levelers, and two 8 inch units.

I'm looking forward to getting my ARP fridge protection in place so that leveling will not be so critical.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

JNorton
Explorer
Explorer
DaHose wrote:
I bought a horse stall mat and cut it up into pieces. Stack to get the height needed.

Works awesome.

Jose
X2
2008 Fleetwood Tioga Ranger 31W E450 V10

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
Don,

Hmmmm ... trick question?

Suppose:

The whole back end was low and the whole RV was also on a slight side-slope tilted downward to the left (driver's side). I run into these kind of situations off-pavement all the time.

1) I'd START onto three of the levelers at the same time (forward or backing onto the levelers) - one each under both driver's side rear dually tires and one under the driver's side front tire. I'd drive partially onto these three levelers until the side-to-side level on my dash showed the downward tilt to the left almost, but not quite, eliminated.

2) THEN - while holding my foot strongly on the brake - I'd put the tranny into park and set the parking brake on.

3) AFTER THAT I'd get out and put two more levelers under each passenger's side rear dually tire.

4) THEN I'd get back into the driver's seat, put my left foot heavily onto the brake while releasing the parking brake, shifting the tranny back into forward or reverse (to drive more onto the levelers), and hitting the gas with my right foot - while slowly releasing my left foot's pressure on the brake - so as to drive slowly onto all five levelers while watching the side-to-side level on the dash and the forward-to-back level on the driver's side door.

5) When both levels on the dash/door showed pretty close to level, I'd call it good, put my left foot heavily on the brake, put the tranny in park, and put the parking brake on.

At that point I'd have used all five levelers to be: Higher onto the driver's side front/rear levelers than the two passenger side levelers in the rear on the dually set, and be higher on all four rear dually tire levelers than the two front tires would be (... the passenger side front tire being on the ground and the driver's side front tire being up on it's leveler).

Whewwww .... leveling lesson done. :S

It's not as complicated as it sounds and after a few years of practice anyone can do it. That's what I call a "worst-case three-point leveling situation". It takes five leveling blocks to do it - assuming you block each rear tire in the two dually sets - as should be done.

I do the above using five home-made stair step leveling blocks made from screwed together 2X6's so that rocky ground will never break them. These stair step blocks can also be used for hole-filling and as a jack base support if one should ever get stuck when off the pavement.
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi Phil,

How would you use 5 of the Anderson levelers? (not smart I am).
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
Why aren't five of those red Camper Levelers from Andersen.com needed, worst case, for leveling a Class C?

By the way straight down (vertical) weight carrying capability is different than toughness against breakage on uneven ground (rocks) that those levelers may have to rest on. The two characteristics don't always go hand in hand.
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

TyroneandGladys
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

I plan on using Anderson levelers rated at 30 tons.



camper leveler

Three are needed for a class C and will work from 1/2 inch to 4 inches. They also work as chocks.


X2
Tyrone & Gladys
27' 1986 Coachmen

DaHose
Explorer
Explorer
I bought a horse stall mat and cut it up into pieces. Stack to get the height needed.

Works awesome.

Jose

mgirardo
Explorer
Explorer
WyoTraveler wrote:
If you have a very light RV they work. Otherwise the answer is NO. They push into the ground or break on a hard surface. If you have a diesel they will sound like a shotgun going off and explode into small pieces


We had our lynx blocks sink on us this summer. After a few days into a 6 week stay, the motorhome was no longer level. Upon releveling, I found the blocks had started sinking. At the end of the trip, the bottom blocks under the front wheels had completely sunk into the ground.

-Michael
Michael Girardo
2017 Jayco Jayflight Bungalow 40BHQS Destination Trailer
2009 Jayco Greyhawk 31FS Class C Motorhome (previously owned)
2006 Rockwood Roo 233 Hybrid Travel Trailer (previously owned)
1995 Jayco Eagle 12KB pop-up (previously owned)

tpi
Explorer
Explorer
I have 24' Lazy Daze. It has less outside access storage than the typical class C due to low profile and shorter size. I carry both the yellow and orange leveling blocks with it. The yellow ones I brought over from my 2005 trailer and that package is a couple short due to breakage. No problems with breakage with the orange blocks with 2+ years of vacations.

Use blocks under both rear tires on side which needs leveling. I shoot for decently level, not perfectly level. If possible scout campsites and pick a level one all things being equal. Frequently I can move around in the campsite and use the most level area to setup. So far (almost 10 years) these blocks have been fine for the use I give it. Perhaps at some point they won't be.

I think you'll enjoy the LD.

Healeyman
Explorer
Explorer
For the 12 years that we have been RVing, I have carried and used 5 ea. 2"x12"x16" lengths of board and 5 ea 12" lengths of 4"x4".

Front to back leveling is by driving up the stack-up shown below, side to side leveling is achieved by driving up one farther than the other.

We've never been in a place that I couldn't get level.

We use no fancy tools to verify level. We just swing the freezer and microwave doors. They point to where it is low.

Tim

EMD360
Explorer
Explorer
Personally, I like the tri-levelers.

We can use just the two of them instead of building up the block pyramids--when the front is low, or we can match the tri with a set of yellows to get the dually's leveled. We just find them easier to work with, but we also have a partial set of yellow blocks after wrecking 2 or 3 on asphalt.
2018 Minnie Winnie 25b New to us 3/2021
Former Rental Owners Club #137
2003 Itasca Spirit 22e 2009-2021

johnalavery
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks to all who replied. Need to get more gear before the LD is finished, but have to get thru this winter. Just about 6" snow today and more for tomorrow. Gives me lots of time to search for my needed equipment. Thanks John in Oregon GO DUCKS!!!!