Class C Handling Mod To Do First

[xpjet96]

I know there are going to be some varying opinions, but I only have so much available cash at a time to throw at all of the different mods I'd like to make to our newly acquired MH. I first want to address the handling characteristics and fully intend to do them all, but which to tackle first? Steering stabilizer, sway bars, or the heavy duty shocks? Picked up a used 32' Winnebago that looks almost new for a 2011 and would like it to drive as great as it looks.

[AJR]

Not sure how accurate this will be.

Safe - T – Plus is like a shock with two opposing springs. One on each side of the piston. The springs are strong enough to center the piston if no external pressure is applied. The install is not hard. But you may have to adjust the placement of the device if the wheels were not pointing straight down the road when doing the initial install.

Safe - T – Plus helps keep the wheels pointing correctly on very uneven roads. This I know to be true from personal experience. They also say it does the same thing when a steering tire blows out. I have not had that happen yet.

[DrewE]

The steering damper is basically just a horizontal shock absorber. The stabilizers also include some sort of centering spring arrangement.

I've never used a Saf-T-Plus or similar contraption personally. Replacing a worn steering damper will definitely have a noticeable (positive) effect on the steering feel, however, from experience. The damper is very straightforward to replace.

[xpjet96]

Ordering the Bilstein shocks. I've seen reference to a steering "dampener" and a steering "stabilizer" (i.e. Safe-T-Plus). Big difference in price and believe the STP has some enhanced characteristics. Has anyone tried both in the past?

[jimx200]

On our C we sarted with new tires, had it aligned, added a Bilstein steering stabilizer and wow, what a difference! Now she always wants to drive. Very happy with our results.

[theoldwizard1]

j-d wrote:
Still, ball joints last a long time, even on E-Series.

That has not been my experience ! My 20 year old E150 is on its fourth set (including the originals), even though the 3 replacement sets have been (greaseable) Moog.

[j-d]

Harvard wrote:
We have 53000 miles on the original ball joints, beware of an up sell job.

Beware is RIGHT. Being why I said "ACTUALLY" needs.

I'm disappointed with Ford's move From King Pins To Ball Joints. Considering they did it in 1991, I suppose it's time to get over it. Probably made assembly quicker/easier/cheaper. You can argue that it makes alignment adjustment possible, but the problem with that is... The King Pin ones simply drove better! Going away! All day!

Still, ball joints last a long time, even on E-Series. They went from coming with grease fittings, to no fittings but with plugged holes, to no fitting no holes. "Permanently lubricated..." I wonder how many of us have shortened the life of front end parts by pumping too much grease in, which tears holes in the boots, letting road dirt in...

[Harvard]

j-d wrote:

xpjet96 wrote:
Total mileage on unit is 27000...prices of replacing ball joints...

If you find it actually does need ball joints, you might be able to buy new take-off axles with knuckles and ball joints from an outfit like Quigley in PA or Quad Van in OR.

We have 53000 miles on the original ball joints, beware of an up sell job.

[whizbang]

All the above advice is right on target.

In order, we did the following:
Bilstein Shocks,
Bilstein Steering Stabilizer,
New tires,
New Ball joints,
New Rear leaf pack.

The biggest noticeable improvement was the shocks.

[j-d]

xpjet96 wrote:
Total mileage on unit is 27000...prices of replacing ball joints...

If you find it actually does need ball joints, you might be able to buy new take-off axles with knuckles and ball joints from an outfit like Quigley in PA or Quad Van in OR.

[xpjet96]

Total mileage on unit is 27000 and the tires have about 14000. Inflation is good. Looked at prices of replacing ball joints and hope they're okay when I get a chance to check them (ouch).

[mgirardo]

Cheap and easy things to do first would be to weigh the Motorhome as has been mentioned. Then, determine what the proper tire pressure is based on the tire manufacturer's recommend tire pressure for your weight. Then have the front end alignment checked.

Since it is 6 years old, also check the manufactured date of the tires. If they are the original tires, I would replace them. Even if they look good. Check the ball joints for play as well. I don't remember seeing the mileage posted, but our 2009 Greyhawk Motorhome needed new ball joints at 30,000 miles. WeR replaced the ball joints with Moog ball joints with Zerk fittings and the Motorhome handled like it did when we first bought it.

-Michael

[Rog___Nan]

We bought a 2008 27' FourWinds late last august. 1st thing we did were new tires second was Bilsteins. Like night and day in handling. Our daughter, who is the primary driver of the class C could not believe the difference.

[AJR]

Per Harvard, DO THE Castor FIRST! Cheap and does wonders.

A stearing stablizer would be my second recomendation.

[352]

After all is checked and fixed. The wheel base from front to rear will make you or break you as far as handling. The longer the wheel base the better the handling.