Cutting Shock Bolts

[SGTJOE]

I've been told that the bolts holding my shocks in place will have to be cut in order to replace the factory shocks. This is from two places who have not seen the motorhome. I looked under it and saw no signs of rust or dirt on any of the bolts holding the shocks. I also sprayed a penetrating oil on all of them.

Is it normal for the bolts to be cut off? Anyone ever had this happen?

My MH is a National Tradewinds DP 2001 on a freightliner chassis. The Blistins were installed when she was new.

[SGTJOE]

Thanks for all the responses and suggestions.

I took her in this morning to a highly recommended shop. He checked the alignment and made some adjustments and also checked the shocks. I was surprised he said the shocks are still good and he said it handled really good on his test run. On the way home it was like driving a different MH. Totally honest shop, hard to find these days. If you are ever in the Saint George, Utah area and need a good shop let me know.

[77rollalong]

It all depends on the mounting of the shock and what new hardware comes with the shock. if its just nut and bolt at one end , tighten them till it breaks off, if the lowers is a stud type, nut splitters work good or for the single threaded tops, if you have room to work. other wise the blue wrench or die grinder, it not like your trying to save the shock...

[jerseyjim]

With me, my Harbor Freight impact gun and 125# air compressor were simply not up to the job. Borrowed a Snap-On impact gun and a 200# air compressor and that ALMOST took all those bolts/nuts off. The one that would really not budge, my (air powered) grinding wheel took care of it.

Also, in my case, the bolts and matching nuts were hardened...the nuts went on by hand only 2-3 turns...then the impact gun was needed do run the nut all the way to tight. (Got the hardened nuts and bolts from Grainger)

[Chum_lee]

valhalla360 wrote:
DIY, you can mess around for a couple of days with penetrating oil and then spend a couple hours messing around heating and cooling the bolt, hoping it comes free...do that at $100/hr shop rate and really quick, it's cheaper to just cut it off...even if they have to re-weld something.

Yeah it's cheaper, but for who? The mechanic, the shop, the vehicle owner?

I've personally seen "mechanics" who are quick to get out the cutting/welding torch and get to work. In their haste to git 'er dun, they fail to look for, or, cant read the placard that says words to the effect of: CAUTION HEAT TREATED DO NOT CUT OR WELD FRAME MEMBERS OR SUSPENSION COMPONENTS

When the parts they were "working/cutting/welding on" fail prematurely, they're long gone with all YOUR money which THEY saved. You, if you are still alive, get to deal with the aftermath.

I'm not opposed to getting aggressive to "git 'er done." Just be sure YOU know what you're doing first.

Chum lee

[mike_brez]

DrewE wrote:

mike brez wrote:
I could not agree more :R
The only thing I would add to it is before crawling under and working on it some sort of Jack stands so you can tell us how you made out when done. Don't put your trust in your leveling jacks.

On many motorhomes, depending on one's girth and agility and so forth, it may well be unnecessary to jack the unit up at all. It can't fall off the ground.

Most DIesel Pushers I have seen with air out of bags sit really low to the ground.
JIm was a member here and irv2 he was just about to leave out of his driveway for a trip and crawled under real quick to check something out and that was it.

Jim Scoggins

[valhalla360]

DIY, you can mess around for a couple of days with penetrating oil and then spend a couple hours messing around heating and cooling the bolt, hoping it comes free...do that at $100/hr shop rate and really quick, it's cheaper to just cut it off...even if they have to re-weld something.

[down_home]

I wouldn't cut them unless necessary. Ass someone else said some are part of the mounts.
This is why I like to paint the undercarriage. primer/paint in spray cans doesn't cost much. I can't think of brands but several coatings that turn rust into something won't corrode any more.

[keefr]

Often the bolt is seized in the metal sleeve that goes through the shock bushing. Getting the nut off is only half the battle. If the nut comes off easily, you may be in luck. If it needs a major dose of penetrating oil, the bushing is likely in even worse condition. I can understand why a shop would advise they will probably have to cut it off.

[DrewE]

mike brez wrote:
I could not agree more :R
The only thing I would add to it is before crawling under and working on it some sort of Jack stands so you can tell us how you made out when done. Don't put your trust in your leveling jacks.

On many motorhomes, depending on one's girth and agility and so forth, it may well be unnecessary to jack the unit up at all. It can't fall off the ground.

[mike_brez]

I could not agree more :R
The only thing I would add to it is before crawling under and working on it some sort of Jack stands so you can tell us how you made out when done. Don't put your trust in your leveling jacks.

[FIRE_UP]

SGTJOE wrote:
I've been told that the bolts holding my shocks in place will have to be cut in order to replace the factory shocks. This is from two places who have not seen the motorhome. I looked under it and saw no signs of rust or dirt on any of the bolts holding the shocks. I also sprayed a penetrating oil on all of them.

Is it normal for the bolts to be cut off? Anyone ever had this happen?

My MH is a National Tradewinds DP 2001 on a freightliner chassis. The Blistins were installed when she was new.

Well Sir,
I answered you in your other forum but, here it is. First, don't be so quick to butcher off ANY bolts until you put a couple of wrenches and or an impact on them. Unless you're doing this for a living and, you're working at a flat rate, you're not in a hurry. So, an attempt or two at loosening the bolts in question may reveal they're not on all that hard. Or, it may reveal they're rusted solid. But, you won't know 'till you give it the ole' College try.

Second, SOME folks cut them off because the bone heads in assembly some how set them up so they cannot come out due to insufficient clearance for them to be COMPLETELY removed. Now, you say you've looked under the coach to see them and, you've sprayed a bit of penetrant on them, correct? If so, do look under it again to see if there is sufficient clearance for complete removal.

If there isn't, then yes, it might be necessary for them to be cut. But, to just crawl under there with torch/saber saw/sawzall, whatever the cutting utensil is, and start cutting, without first attempting to remove them in a regular manor, well, that's up to you. It's much like seeing a door kicked in BEFORE trying to turn the door knob to see if it's unlocked.
Scott

[Dick_B]

Diablo reciprocating saw blades are awesome.

[DrewE]

SGTJOE wrote:

Stim wrote:
Why are you opposed to cutting them off?
Sometimes it's the fastest way, time is money.

I'm thinking that they are part of the undercarriage, so they would have to be welded back on. Am I wrong, are they a bolt and nut not attached to the undercarriage?

Typically it's just a rather ordinary machine bolt and a nut, running through a bracket welded to the frame and the eye of the shock absorber (and bushings and washers and so forth). The bolt and nut are not welded to the frame. That, of course, is assuming the shock doesn't have a threaded stud sticking out the top that gets attached to a mount with a nut and bushing and washer at the top, such as is common on cars and/or some front suspensions.

I'm sure there are other variations on some vehicles, but these are the two general types of mounts that I've come across.

[SGTJOE]

Stim wrote:
Why are you opposed to cutting them off?
Sometimes it's the fastest way, time is money.

I'm thinking that they are part of the undercarriage, so they would have to be welded back on. Am I wrong, are they a bolt and nut not attached to the undercarriage?